Russell griffiths

I was going to say the same as peter, the thickness of your box section may not be thick enough to resist pull out, I have fixed handrails before ( not glass ) and the box was cut and internally plated to add thickness to the bolt areas. 25mm thick I seam to remember but it is many years ago.

A tower is no good for block work as you want to run the whole length of wall not just a 2.4m bit. Builders bandstands and planks, board out the whole length in one go, building up to 2.5m will mean you only need them 1.2 high, if worried you can get a hand rail for them, look on e bay lots of second hand on there. If you don’t mind spending a bit and recover at the end buy some kwickstage scaffolding and board out your entire run of block work, saves getting up and down, load blocks one end and carry around at working height.

When this was discussed in the other thread I think the thoughts where any pipe work on show would condensate leaving a drippy pipe making a mess.

Nick I have worked in a couple of houses that had cool rooms with glass walls and doors, big enough to get 20-30 people inside, luxury houses £5 million type places, so you must be able to get the kit.

Mine is slightly different as we have a raised seam metal roof, so very different to your normal under tile type membrane.

This is very true, one reason I have never posted my floor plans is I dont really want other people’s opinions, I’m building it for me and the wife and we live very different lives to most people. Decide what you want and then ask for good ways to achieve this, not what would you build.

355m

I phoned SIGA and they sent a rep to my site, he was in a van filled with more fancy stuff than you could shake a stick at. He was very happy to demonstrate the sticking abilities of his tapes by applying them to our esp blocks and challenging me to pull them off. Not cheap, but do you want cheap, I would rather spend my money on good base materials than a wall hung toilet. My roof membrane has just cost me a little over £1500 plus vat, plus £120 in tape to seal the laps. I hope it was money well spent.

This will be a waste of time as the staff in most bm won’t know a good product if it hit them around the face.

Not fast enough. ?

Hi, I don’t think I have ever seen an introduction with so many replies, you are obviously going to be a good help to many on here. ??

Ok I will start, been avoiding it as didn’t want to sound negative. Dont put anymore of those studs in place, and stop with the electrics, you need to get your insulation method sorted first. If you go with a sheet type you need to cut it at a set width and then put your additional studs in to match the insulation, if not you will end up cutting all funny sized insulation and end up with all manor of waste. With regards the electrics,if you bury them in the insulation layer you need to consider the loads as the insulation can compromise the load carrying capacity. Have you thought of having it spray foamed.

I have just submitted an amendment to our drawings as we have changed a large steel beam in the roof, this meant a new set of calculations from the structural engineer, I hand delivered them to bc as well as sent an electronic version, in all there where 26 pages of documents for this one steel, I don’t for one minute believe that bc even looked at them, they would have just stuck it in my file and carried on with the next task.

Now that’s a good idea, 4 or 6 bricks done.

That window will be under £100 why bother running around getting a piece of glass cut, then you need to paint it forever more, buy one online and get it delivered while you get on with something else.

How about D4 wood glue, since using it on my floorboards I’m finding uses for it everyday, will tear the wood fibre apart before you separate the batten from it.

Are you sure it’s not the same mice returning, my dad did the same thing and in the end he painted all the mice he caught to confirm they weren’t returning, lots of mice running around the country with little white Mohican haircuts.

Can you try and upload pictures in a better way, I lost the will to live trying to get into drop box.

If you have a look at Jeremy blog, and stones and Peter stark I think you will find some better answers than the fake lead, I cannot see how you can make that look sharp and crisp, I think it will always look like a roll of something. I think there are a few on here who have used a folded flashing made from aluminium.

I would think it would be a bugger to fit anything to the outside insulation, ok if your rendering but no fixing points if you are cladding.

I thought you where downsizing ??. Looks excellent. How are you moving those big doors about, I’m just in the process of trying to work out how to move a 250kg window.

If the legs bolt in place it would be easy enough to change one in 10years time if a bit of rot set in, I wouldn’t overly panic.

Sounds like my brother, did he sort your bloody hole out though.

It depends on what standard you are building to, you can fill the cavity below dpc with a lean concrete mix, or a better choice would be insulation, have you got a cross section of your wall floor build up, what did you submit to building control.

I bet he’s a good looking bloke as well.