Russell griffiths

Tried a coat of bitumen based waterproofing liquid, the foil tape didn’t stick well to this, but I haven’t tried any better tapes yet apart from the cheap nasty aluminium stuff.

Do the resilient bars run parallel with the joists or at 90 degrees to them, if 90 degrees then it won’t matter if you use a longer screw as they will never touch the timber.

Morning all. I need an airtight tape to cover the gap between my ceiling pir insulation and the inside wall face. The problem is my walls are EPS insulation and it’s this I’m finding hard to stick to, anybody found anything that likes to stick to eps.

Hessian for frost, dpm for rain, few loose blocks on top, job done.

Do not use chrome plated copper into a push fit connector, they blow off, the teeth inside the fitting cannot grip the chrome.

I’ve obviously lost my nerve

If it’s 3-4 days to get the insulation in 3-5 days for the steel 2 days for the ufh i would get everything on site do you ground preparation and then be very ready to start again on the 2nd jan, by the 20th you will be ready to pour, no point having a spoilt Christmas rushing around with a pump that has broken and trying to find a hire shop that is open. Now im very gung ho, but it would be a shame to spoil everything over a 3 week delay.

I did thanks, but forgot to reply. Trying to be a bit cautious with funds at the moment.

I was going to suggest a shadow bead, but I think the idea is to hide the door not emphasis it. I also think the original idea will break away at the corner.

You normally board the ceiling first, easier to cut walls neatly to ceiling, awkward to cut ceiling neatly to walls. Unless your having coving then you can leave a right ol mess as the coving covers it all.

Have you seen the MATT RISINGER videos on YouTube, lots of hidden door details.

What do you mean about levelling with a screw? Do you mean in and out, so not screwing tight if a board sits non flush.

Oh god, my brain can only think of one thing at once, I’m still procrastinating about floor insulation. Wall covering will be something to over think about @AnonymousBosch next year.

Evening all, I’m being lazy and can’t be bothered to look it up, does anybody know the load rating for pir insulation, in so much as being used under a floor screed, if I was using eps it would either be eps 70 or 100. Does pir have a load rating. Cheers russ.

If you change the bar length for longer you will kill the performance, a longer bar and chain will take more power to spin at the same rpm, unless you change sprockets, don’t even think of going there it will just get over complicated for a bit of log cutting.

Evening, is that one slab for the two houses, or have you got another one to do.

Be a bit cautious before you go jumping in. I put myself in hospital for a week with the worst type of stomach bug thing I’ve ever known ambulance job and a week in the tropical and infectious diseases ward, the previous day I had been in my parents septic tank removing a layer of gravel and replaced with new. Must remember to stop biting my finger nails. ??????????

Upstairs for thinking, downstairs for dancing. ??

If it been working for 19 years why not clean it out have a good look do a few repairs and jobs a good un. New treatment plant will be north of £2500 time you get it all in.

Lots on YouTube if you look up the manufacturers pages.

All of the board manufacturers make their own surface finish, some you spray on, some you put on with a roller. Most are aimed at commercial builds, where they want a good finish without skimming.

Reading through this lot the only thing I would add from a more hands on approach would be that if you use smaller boards make sure the team doing the jointing and finish knows this, if I turned up and you had used small sheets and there was double the joints it will cost you double the money to get it finished. I will be planning on using the biggest sheets I can find, if I can buy 4.8m in this country then that’s what I will use, I would rather pay for additional labour in fitting than having a joint every metre.

It has been many years since I was involved in this stuff and then we always used our consultant. But what I will add is it’s always wise to include that all excavation will be carried out by hand digging, no mechanical excavation. With regards timing they probably want to know that any heavy trades will have finished before the fencing is removed to carry out the hand digging. What they don’t want is you removing the fence building a parking area and then Fred the delivery driver unloads 20 packs of blocks on top, so it’s all about reassuring them that you are going to continue to provide protection even if you remove the fence.

I have no idea, it’s your house. ??

If you strip all the render off back to the frame you might want to add a sheathing board directly to the studs then your breather membrane.