Russell griffiths

Patrick, your neighbours are going to love you, i think after dropping a tree on them and now waking them up your going straight down when your time comes. ????

Is there a reason you don’t like this window, surely natural light in a workshop is good. You will have major noise issues with the door, a window will not make it much worse, why not build some shutters that can be pulled closed when you do noisy stuff, I would also build shutters over the door to stop noise as well.

Patrick, your neighbours are going to love you,

@Big Jimbo why not find another piling company? all companies will charge you mobilisation plant costs mine was about £1200 i had 29 piles to 8m for £12,000 I asked 2 companies for quotes and both said that the ringbeam was a loss maker as they took to long and made more money from just the piles.

Not trying to state the obvious but I take it you are going to fit this vertically.

I do like a bloke who doesn’t mince his words. Straight to the point boom.

Yes @ProDave you are 100% right its too early for my brain to be typing 0.14 is what it should be. ?? cheers.

Hi @A_L I intend to go back to the guy who did my sap assessment and check a few things as I’m not sure if I have found the right documents. I think my roof buildup came out at 1.4 does that look about right, I’m not entirely happy with that and think it needs to be better what’s your thoughts. Cheers.

The 70 mm is just down to the specific make I have found, most are 75mm i would like to go down to a 25mm batten but a lot of downlights need s deeper batten. It is like black magic I really hate all the bloody figures, I’m just trying to build a nice house. I might just say fook it and stick a woodburner in ??

Can you explain to a numpty how I use those figures to turn it into something I can understand, will the extra 20mm save me £20 per year on my heating or £100. I wish I could just stick to hacking up bits of wood and nailing them together.

You are spot on @PeterW I had thought about fixings with 50mm and a service batten I can get away with 120mm wood screws, any thicker and I’m in to longer more expensive screws, my ceiling area is 220m so a fair few screws.

So in my original plans I was going to have 50mm of pir insulation under my ceiling joists all taped up, now it looks like I have plenty of room to fit 70mm pir instead. The extra cost would be £600, would this extra 20mm save me much on my heating, how long is it going to pay back £600 or should I not look at it like that and stuff in as much as I have space for.

Nothing needed, if it’s a strip trench it will be protected by the soil surrounding it, if a frost is coming a roll of hessian over the trench over night. If you are talking about a finished floor slab then that is different.

Doesn’t look a problem it just depends if you know what to expect, that to me looks like a whole house remodel, so you will loose the use of all those rooms for a good while, you will be in complete chaos don’t even think you can just move the sofa while they put the steels in, you will be living in one room at the front living on takeaway food and washing up in the bath. Been there done it many times. You need to work out if the beams will be visible at ceiling height or will they get hidden i the ceiling void, expect additional foundations under the columns supporting the beams, so floors will get dug up. this is the sort of disruption to expect.

If I had to bet I would say the one on the right was English not Siberian. I have just given MillWorks a small fortune for cedar and it is absolutely spot on clear, not a knot in it anywhere. I did have samples of larch of them. It really is down to the look you are after, my neighbour has just done a huge barn in English grown Douglas fir and it looks very good are you after rustic or modern, treated or going to let it grey.

I’m sitting here waiting for the agro to start. C,mon who’s going to throw the first one.

What worktop was that @Big Jimbo

Can you run the waste along the floor and up into the cupboard from below instead of behind. You normaly have 150mm to play with under a unit. Got any pics.

A roof that keeps the building warm is not dependent on the roof covering, it’s the insulation layer under the waterproof coating that does that, tell your Achitect you want top spec in heat loss design as he will need to allow for extra height for the insulation buildup.

Not if your in a conservation area or tree has tpo, consent required for everything apart from dead, dying, dangerous.

Have you thought of planning your MVHR and getting holes cut in your steel before you fit them.

I thought that video was fairly straight forward.

Sounds good, how about services on the underside, would it be an idea to have the steels high so you get a gap under for services to run under the steels.

I don’t see cost as really anything that matters, do you want planning or not, if I had been in the same situation £5,000- £10,000 -£15,000 on a wall would just have been another minor irritation.

My planning application cost £14,600 most of this made up of consultants who knew their way around the system at the end of the day it was worth every penny, I would have paid a lot more. If it could be a make or brake situation I would get the best traffic consultant I could find and go armed with some good back up. if it meant rebuilding a wall then in the grand scheme of obtaining planning spending money on a wall you don’t own will be a small price to pay. I really like this saying. ITS HARD TO SOAR LIKE AN EAGLE WHILST SURROUNDED BY TURKEYS. get good professional advice.