Russell griffiths

No need for treated your trusses won’t be.

If you buy an expensive set it will really pee you off when you drop it and it hits the concrete tip first. I would buy mid range £25-35 set and abuse them, then when you are fitting door hinges get a couple of good ones, too early in the build for quality ones you will only wreck.

No matter how shit my day has been @ToughButterCup little escapades always bring a grin to my face. Keep up the good work ol fella.

I’m a long way off from doing this, do you want to do a bit of research on different types, as I’m sure you have nothing better to do ??. It will probably come in a 25kg drum so I will have a fair bit left over.

I did grp on my kitchen a couple of years ago in January, it was a bloody pain but came out very good with lots of hard work. I have a small small porch to do on the new house and won’t be using grp again, I will be using one of the liquid single component systems that uses a mat just like grp but cures with contact with moisture so removes all of those problems. Have a search around theres a few vids on you tube of companies changing to it from grp.

Not sure I would go to the cost of installing both, if you need a treatment plant then why the compost toilet, if you install the treatment plant it is reasonable cheap to run the pipework from the other toilet to it, you will need pipework for the sinks and showers etc so another 2m of pipe for the toilet will be pennies to put in.

How about a upvc cladding, no maintenance ever.

Another disappearing poster.

Get a scaffolding co to stick a scaffolding platform to get access to a point from which you want to work, then a tarpaulin roof over the rest of the structure. Will be the best money you spend,

Forgetting the vat side of things, if you leave that building there how much will it hamper the new build, will it add more inconvenience to the demolition of the old house, how much extra agro will the builders incur working around it. Looking at your site I would think they would want a completely clear route down to the lower level, Just had another look, there’s more room than I remember at the right hand side, so you can forget my comments regarding access.

That’s right, but that doesn’t mean giving up your day job and going on a plastering course.

If you have the salary that you say then there is no gain whatever from doing any of the work, stick at what you do best and just sign the cheques, be a very good manager, and not a poor bricklayer.

@ZacP have you had a structural engineer look at yours yet? From the brief look I had at your drawings I thought you had two walls that will be retaining the ground and forming the structure for the next floor to go on. If this is the case I would expect a lot of re- bar, and even an increase in block size to accommodate a larger concrete core for the strength.

Why are you fitting insulation between the rafters ? have you got a room in the roof.

You can two two things. Go to a local tree wholesaler and get some huge black tubs with handles 100-125 litre take them to the new place and install an irrigation system to keep them watered they will dry out very quickly in a pot. Or dig a trench around them at there present location and cut of any roots you find in that trench, back fill the trench with good soil with a bit of compost, every year re dig the trench and prune back new roots, thus keeping the root area under check but in a manageable size. I have done this over over a period of 3 years on a large avenue of trees newly planted when the owners architect changed their mind on the driveway location, took 3 years to get new planning in place and once the drive was complete we moved them over to there new home.

Tele handler and a friendly farmer £150 should see them all up there.

How about using a sarking board.

I’ve drilled after the pour, 25mm hole, 20mm conduit, air sealed with illbruck air sealing gunge.

I would want it to look perfect if you have paid somebody to do it, if it looks inferior to the rest I would want that section re- rendered. Would it be be simpler to fit round vents so they can be drilled in using a core drill so the new round vent will cover the round hole, rather than them trying to cut out a square hole. Just a thought.

Are you sure you will need them that quickly, if he has to felt and batten that could take him a while, then he needs to bump all the tiles up. Then if you get him to start on a bit with no windows he might have a couple of weeks in front of him before he needs the windows. Just a thought.

Ok back to my water problems. I decided to go and get a thermometer so we can get some figures to work from. The temperature at the hot tap is 56 so knowing the risk of legionaries is low in a domestic situation then that is probably fine. However this is lower than the scalding temperature it was previously and that has had a knock on effect on the thermostatic mixer shower. The temperature at the shower head is 37 which we find too cold. So a couple of things Anybody know what sort of temperature these mixer valves are set too it’s a reasonable expensive MIRA one as recommended by @Nickfromwales 3 years ago. If the input from the tank is 59 why is the mixer mixing it down to 37 when previously it was hotter. Are these mixers adjustable, I remember when it came there was a funny blue spanner thing with it for some sort of maintenance. I will need to dig out the manual and have a look, but it’s easier asking you lot from the comfort of the sofa than having to deal with the mess I call an office. Cheers russ.

Pocket hole jig ??? look on you tube. Biscuit cutter or if your really really posh like @ToughButterCup you could use dominoes, but only if your proper posh.

Obviously why they are so bloody expensive.

Domino cutter, oooh get you, fancy pants. @ToughButterCup

you will need to remove all the original floors to get adequate insulation in to make the ufh viable, do not believe any of the BS that the suppliers will tell you that 10mm insulation boards on top of a cold floor will be perfectly adequate for your ufh, it will obviously work but you will spend more money heating the ground than heat entering the room. Any reason for ufh ??