Russell griffiths

I still don’t understand the prices over here, I paid $25 a m for polished porcelain 600x600 looked stunning. I think there is a massive uplift somewhere because we put up with it.

Buy a roll of damp proof course from toolstation screwfix, couple of staples into top of bearers before they put the floor down.

You’ve just built a whole house, I’m sure you can figure out how to patch that up, c,mon mix up up an egg cup full of board adhesive, dampen sides of hole , coat edges with adhesive, fit cutout back in hole. Fill with fine surface filler, re paint. Sort of like onoff but I don’t like no nails as it’s non sand able so any drips or bits that hang down are a pain, board adhesive can be allowed to squidge out and trimmed back with a knife before filling.

I’ve done mine thanks, it just looks cheap compared to quotes I had.

You would be better off taking £10,000 from your ufh budget and spend it on upgrading your insulation, even your loft conversion with current building regs insulation is poor. Upgrade it now while the house is a wreck.

That’s very cheap, check who’s it is, avoid the gypsum stuff.

I think you need to go back to the drawing board, It looks like you are trying to build a sauna, if you insulate it properly and air seal it you will not need heating in the loft, it will be unbearable up there and you will need the windows open. I have a mezzanine area with no heating apart from what rises naturally and we are wondering how to keep it cool.

Excellent, far too many boring houses being built in uk.

I think in this country we seem to think that a house has to be stuck to the ground, other countries like America and Australia build on far greater slopes than we have because they are not restricted by our boring house building.

We have cedar and the cost is extortionate, if you are painting it I would buy a standard builders merchants off the shelf product.

@pocster are you still here, I thought we had got rid of you.

That’s a standard shit job, you should be aiming for 100% better than that.

I would just use the correct size timber but bolt it to the wall fix the joist to the wall with 12mm studs, secured into the wall with epoxy resin drill the timber at 600 centres, mark the wall and remove the timber clean out holes and squirt in epoxy, fit studs and allow to go off fit timber and tighten nuts. I did one exactly like this years ago and the customer put it through his house insurance.

Are you serious ??‍♂️

I decided to go traditional 80mm thick, I have seen three liquid screeds in the last year and I wasn’t overly impressed with any of them, mine would have been £2000 dearer to use a flow screed. The price increase is because it saves you time. I wanted weight to pin the insulation down with no bounce. Very impressed with mine.

I’ve just finished mine, I laid pipes over entire floor area, then screened whole floor incorporating expansion joints to fall in doorways and under a long run of wall. All my stud walls are up without one single screw or bolt into the screed, all glued down with HB42 adhesive

Looking good. ??

I’m leaning towards getting a standard cheap flight of stairs and building the winders myself. Im just starting to read up on regs for stairs, I know the standard 100mm openings and straight forward stuff, has anybody got any knowledge any any regs that could catch me out. And any pointers for good design, these are stairs leading up to a mezzanine area that is my wife’s craft room so probably see only infrequent use. Cheers.

Everything is doable, just depends on what you want to spend, getting that building past building regs might be a job to far and it could be easier to knock it down. As has has been said planning is the big hurdle.

if you have zero knowledge then go and hire a powered tamping beam, or a beam screed, you can hire the bull float as well, you will also need two friends one on each end of the screed and one in the middle raking out the concrete. Do not underestimate the work in this. Make sure you can get the concrete truck truck right up to the pour area.

Soak it up in the cleaner, and then go poking with the screwdriver. He who dares rodney.

I cannot see your problem with block coursing, your blocks will run up level with the outside brickwork, it’s off no consequence how much insulation you have, it’s down to your beam depth, a standard 150 deep beam should course nicely with the outside brickwork. One row of coursing blocks on top of the beams and you will be back level with the brickwork. Hope thats what you meant.

As mark said, that’s a breaker for concrete paths and things, you can do a lot of damage to the underneath structure with a breaker, I would start with a hammer and bolster first. If it’s blown it should fall off.

Probably, it still looks fine, it’s very sheltered in that gap so gets very little sunlight, I would be happy if it needed changing every 5 years. How about a strip of fibreglass as in one of the edge trims cut down and slid up into the gap.

Are you sure it’s not uv resistant, it’s been there about 4 years and looks fine every time I clean the gutters out. Im talking about dpc not dpm. ??