Russell griffiths

If you turned it into an old people’s home you could move in as soon as it’s done. ?? sorry.

Remember rabbit guards.

If it’s a hedge you will cut by hand yourself, then don’t do a double row, just a single. You will find it will come out to wide, no problem if cutting with a tractor flail.

Nope, silly idea, if you want a brick wall build one. Acoustic insulation easy and cheaper.

Why are you worried about minimising pipe runs. Put them where you need them, don’t skimp on them because you think it will be a faff. I think i have somewhere in the region of 9 110mm pipes exiting under the house.

Do you have an excavator or a land rover to move one unit around. I would get them both both on site but only one in position level the first one exactly, then manoeuvre the other up to it, I think having both in the way could cause problems.

That’s not really what you want, your damp course level should be 150mm above ground height as usual will get water splash bouncing above your damp course.

If you are in the right sort of area, an add on face book will have the locals coming to collect the timber. If i fell a tree around here and leave it in handy sized pieces it’s gone in a couple of days. We have even tipped loads onto a bit of common land with a free sign on it and it all disappears in a day or two.

Not exactly true, you can remove a tree at any time, as long as you have carried out the relevant risk assessment to ascertain if there are nesting birds.

Whoooo, that told them.

What topping is going on the sub floor. You can use a double or triple bottom plate. Depends what the build up is.

That’s a bit to simplified. If you only had 250 of brickwork you would see the foundation concrete at ground level, you would normally have 3-4 courses of bricks/ blocks below ground level. Your floor is a bit simplified as well, you haven’t got a structural element in there, unless you are mixing up the words screed with concrete, screed is not structural so you cannot just put that on top of insulation. You also cannot put the insulation on the membrane on the floor, you would did down to firm ground and add 150mm of stone heavily compacted then the sand then the membrane then your floor structure. As far as foundations go you will probably go into the ground at least a metre unless you are on some sort of solid ground. You need to do some section drawings to a scale so we can point out the various build ups.

If this is a must have part of your kitchen, then redesign around it. Make this the focus and change stuff to suit or it will be a compromise.

Tell your wife to wait.

I have got some fairly serious cantilever sections holding my roof up, it is all formed out of the concrete core of the icf, so lots of reinforcement inside the icf then a concrete beam was formed using shuttering plywood, pored the concrete and removed the plywood leaving a concrete beam poking out. Mine are just straight out arms but I have seen a ring beam configuration done the same way.

I would have thought you will need to know the load that the Lewis deck and screed will impose. The floor designer will work to a normal house loading unless told otherwise. So they will work to a standard design that would include a chipboard floor then floor covering then standard furniture for a standard habitable room. If you told them your having a full size snooker table up there, or a jacuzzi then that would move the design into another dimension, I believe it would be the same for the screed, it might not be a lot but it’s all very relevant. Completely different scenario but I’ve just had downstairs floor screeded and they used 26 tonnes of screed. So it all needs taking into account.

@brickierob1 if your a trainee bricky why are you measuring in feet and inches. All plans and drawings will be in metres. Concrete comes by the metre bricks are all metric. Re measure in m and calculate the volume. Then get a mix on site truck to mix and you barrow. No money to be made mixing it yourself, just a bad back. Mixed on site and in the trench in an hour. Done.

If you are putting Lewis deck and screed I think you have just moved the goal posts into another universe.

Hi peter, was there a reason you couldn’t break this span in two with a beam in the centre, those joists at that size and spacing would have been a significant cost. Or do you think the extra cost for the larger timbers was better than the price of a steel.

Rule one get a site survey to determine where they are, ensure it is in you quote that it needs doing. Determine what is on site and contact the service provider to give you the correct documentation to work near their services. Having chopped through many water, gas, electric, bt, cable tv, and fibre optic over the years, you start to get wise to it. Get it all in writing from who you are working for that all services need to be shown to you or you accept no responsibility.

I believe at 6 m you will end up with one of three things a steel beam in the centre to cut the span down. Joists so deep that they make the floor buildup unacceptable a bouncy floor. I bet you end up with number one. When I was looking into all different types of joist the 5m figure cropped up all the time, anything over this just started to get so complicated to engineer out the deflection.

Nothing wrong with that. Just get it bloody finished.

I used to find most customers had a beer budget but champagne taste, you need to knock them into line very quickly. I then did a reappraisal of my business and found customers with a champagne budget, loads better.

But are they cheaper in a quality product, I think not, I would say that most quality windows are made to measure. so it’s obviously sensible to stick to a standard brickwork size, but are the windows any cheaper. Thats what @ZacP was after.