Russell griffiths

Are you just thinking the 25mm round stuff.

@TonyT the only area that is an issue is running cables on any of the icf surfaces. First floor is I joist so no problem there, ceiling has a service batten so no problem there it’s a couple of the icf walls will have switches or sockets but no service batten to create a void, so cables will need to go in the surface of the icf, so need a method of isolating them from the polystyrene.

I’m just about to start first fix wiring and looking for wisdom on how people ran wires when on an polystyrene icf wall. Im fully aware of the need to separate the wires away from the polystyrene, wondering what people have done to keep the separation. Im meeting the electrician later in the week and we have a number of ideas kicking about, but I thought it would be good to see what others have done. The ideas range from cutting a 25mm deep chase in the wall and lining it with foil tape, to installing a rectangular conduit the type with the clip on face. Any thoughts @willbish

If you have a good idea of what you want then you just need an architectural technician to turn your ideas into drawings you can submit for building control, your budget is small, don’t spend what you don’t need to.

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So we eventually get to see some building work excellent choice of product to build with, even if I do say so myself.

@Red Kite have just had theirs done and they had an expansion joint horizontally around the whole house, it was something to do with the guarantee of the render. Work out who is going to warranty the installation, then it’s down to them to specify the methods.

Wanna sell it and pretend it didn’t turn up.

@tonyshouse what do you mean by bucket shops, is that an actual place ??

Why are vanity units so bloody expensive. As far as I see it, it’s a china sink and a small kitchen cabinet so I can buy a nice china sink for £200 so why am I paying £500 for a small cupboard most I have looked at are all around £650-£750. Am I looking in the wrong places. Any good spots to look people. Cheers, pissed off as usual.

Why not a bit of both, bricks up to 1m then a nice zinc flashing then render. Guarantees you have enough bricks.

This is what a lot of water companies do know when installing a new main into an existing house.

Every pane of ours has an etching mark on it. Put a picture up, if you have two panes do they both have to be safety glass, are they side by side or one above the other.

Not slab loft roll fluffy stuff comes on a big roll with cuts in it so you can tear it apart at the desired width, don’t cut it accurately just get it squished in like Peter said use a stick to unroll it so you don’t need to clamber around much. Its a mornings work at most even for an ape.

You said to tape it all together to form a vcl, he will already have a Dpm under the insulation so doesn’t need two, it’s easier to use a separate thin plastic membrane on top of the insulation to stop the screed touching or falling into the gaps.

Those loft cheeks should have ;100mm pir in the gaps and 50mm pir over the whole face covering all the studs.

Look at some of the foreign stuff, we are still living in the 60s, some of the nice rads have both valves on one end of the rad so you get this very neat two port valve, plumbed from underneath so no pipe tails on show at all. It is also easier to get the spacing right as you just know that pipes ate 50-60-70mm apart rather than knowing size of the rad.

I think your fine, just make sure as you go up higher it is tied back into something Now that you have done a pour and it’s all set you can tie into your lower walls either through the windows or with big rings that rawbolt into the walls.

A euro cone is basically the same as a nut and an olive just the same as any compression fitting if the manifold has been made to have a Euro cone fitting then that’s all that will fit it as the inside is machined to except a Euro cone. Dont panick they are dead easy to use and 100% bomb proof what you will need is the little tool to shape the end of the pipe nicely so the Euro cone insert seats nicely into the pipe. Do a bit of you tube searching, 100% you must use the correct pipe cutter, do not be attempting to carve the pipe around with a hacksaw. If you haven’t bought all your bits yet you can get very nice rad valves that take a Euro cone.

No he won’t, if it’s laid over a block n beam floor he will have a damp proof membrane laid on the floor first, this will be taped to your perimeter damp proof course. Just like @nod picture did bc come out and look at yours @nod mine wasn’t interested, he had seen so much other stuff he told me to photograph it and send him a couple of pics.

Avoid acrylic as it will crack if you fart too close to it.

Ok, I’m going to come back to this with the wife in tow and a bill to hand, as we have two meters one for night storage heaters and one for the rest of the stuff. Will get back to you later in the week when I have warmed up.

Oh my god i had to google that. ??

Morning had a letter from sse regarding putting in a smart meter. This is for the little bungalow we live in now, not the new house. What is the current thoughts on for or against. We are hoping to still own this when the new house is built, so as long as funds permit we will have it for a few years.