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  1. Can we bury the radiator pipes into solid wall as well? how deep should I go and any potential problem because of the heat expansion of the pipes?
  2. OK, as I understand all pipes would be 15mm for hot & cold water, I will check your previous post regarding to the 15 or 22mm for the CH. 🙄 I first came across these "plumbing manifolds" while looking for manifolds for radiators : https://www.heatdirect.co.uk/emmeti-multiplex-sanitary-manifold-2099.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4sT_1vqe5gIVwkPTCh1SlAiBEAQYBiABEgLOR_D_BwE I like the idea of point-to-point one piece pipe, so less problem points when running all the pipes behind walls in a new ensuite: And then for a studio, the manifold is in a wall box which can be accessed without entering the studio, so if something goes wrong while tenant away, its easy to cut off the supply for any of the points. Of course these can be done without a manifold as well but this kind of one pieces solutions are seems compact and easy to implement depends on your planning. By the way, I didn't know that but ii was told the manifold plumbing is the norm in some of the European countries. Everything is positive in these marketing videos but whats your main concern about the plumbing manifold in these kind of installations?
  3. this might work for water but I need for gas as well. (but I feel better with a mechanically more reliable lever ball valve)
  4. That was my concern with PVC conduits as well. Probably galvanised ones are heavy in fixing and price as well. If I would like to add a cable later on, is it easy and safe to pull a new cable into chased/capped channel?
  5. To put a isolation valve over the floor level for a pipe running under, is there any "bottom only connection" type valves? Let me explain what I meant: Right now to add a isolation valve: straight up pipe to floor level + isolation valve + short straight + U bend connection + straight back to the pipe under floor. I just wonder if there are special valves with two connections at the buttom one for IN one for OUT so nice tidy two pipe connection without extra bends and soldering.
  6. well.. I was considering manifold for hot/cold water as well 3-4 port ..one in bathroom, one in kitchen but each got supply directly.
  7. Its late 1930s bungalow, I haven't break any rendering yet, its quite solid hard rendering but probably bricks. One of the wall is about 11-12 the others about 14-15cm thick. I will check the regulations regarding to the isolators for electric shower and cooker if there are certain distance or level restrictions to place. I need a good electic wall chaser with dust extractor and maybe a backbox chaser as well. (any recommendation?)
  8. Planning the rewiring of a single storey bungalow. All internal walls are solid as well. No floorboard in the loft but just loose rockwool insulation. I would like to put 47mm metal back boxes, is it ok to use 20mm pvc conduits to bury into walls? (hope no cracks over chasing later!)? All conduits will be straight up to loft. Even the two socket on the same wall will have straight conduits for each. If these sockets would be on the same ring, the cable have to go up to the loft and then down to the next socket. (maybe few exception like the two sockets next to each other over the kitchen counter) Is it good enough for the electricians like this and can do all the wiring later? (the reason I am doing this way is, I may add some home-automation cabling if/when necessary)
  9. Very helpful thank you .🙏 Ok I will go for 938. I was considering manifold system to install a central room by room temperature control system with out TRVs. For an other property 3 bed+1 bath but with a potential loft/ensuite (in few years maybe): Is it too much to put a 938 now or are they efficient enough even for smaller properties?
  10. if the joist are straight and cut the insulation board a bit angled that fit gets tighter when pushed between the joists, would that be enough to keep the insulation safe in all weathers and in the future?
  11. Yes I am considering to remove whole floor of the house (around 90m2) Is there any other way? (the void is 30cm so not enough space to work from underneath)
  12. How about Vaillants's or Veismann's "storage combi"s? Or is there a way to circulate the water in the pipe intermittently if the temperature drops. (like using a loop pipe connection as a small hot water storage) And on the pipe size, even if I have 3 areas with their own manifolds, still no need for 22mm? 3 areas/3 manifolds : kitchen, bathroom, ensuite. 15mm pipes will run to the tabs/showers in these areas from the manifold in this area but I was considering a 22mm with 2 "T connection" to supply DHW to these manifols. IS it better and enough to run everything 15mm?
  13. The problem is where ever I move the combi some of the hot water taps or showers would be at least 10-15 m away. Other then a good pipe insulation, is there any other method or technology to minimise this hot water delay because of the pipe length ?
  14. I would like to insulate the floor of a bungalow. Its suspended floor with 38x128 mm joists. The void is about 30cm. If I would like to put 75mm kingspans between joist, whats the easiest way to fix them? (batten each joist sides seems a lot of work) And another concern is the rodents. How can I protect the insulation being chewed by mouse? (there was a lot of advice not to use plastic pipes in void areas for this reason on an other tread!) or is there any better way to insulate without compromising the air circulation of the void area and without rising the floor level.
  15. Still part of the house and its a warm area. Fully accessible for service or checking. a 7-8 meter main pipe will run to the manifold in the house first (under the staircase) then 8 radiators will get their return and supply from this manifold separately so full room by room control possible. Same for the hot water plumbing, three manifolds (kitchen, bath and ensuite) all getting their hot water directly from the combi then the wash basin, shower or the kitchen sink gets their from the manifold.