Conor

Semi ridgid all the way. The fully flexible is OK if you support it fully. But that can be a pain if it needs to be elevated. Keep an eye on the market place here or post a request as the amount you need is likely laying around unused at somebody's site.

You don't need any of that. Just setup each manifold as a zone. E.g. one per floor with a single stat for each. Let the ASHP control the water temp and the room stats to simply call on/off. There really is no advantage to anything more complicated like this in a modern, well insualted house. Don't need the actuators, sensors or individual stats at all. You can set the "heat" in each zone by setting the flow rates. Your UFH design will tell you roughly what flow rates you need for each zone. We have this setup with a 60l buffer. Works well for the rare times it's needed.

Is it insualted? If so what type?

Hire / buy an alloy scaffold tower that will get you to roof level. Million times better.

I hit exactly 2MW yesterday... Installed in early March so on track to hit the PVGIS prediction of 4.5MW per year. Tho April was the sunniest ever here...

Submit a non material change application to the planners and see what they say. I think any change like that in a conservation area will require approval. Is it prominent? E.g. an external stack that goes high above the roofline? Is is a defining feature of the property and others near by? Or is it an internal stack with just a short stub on the roof? If the latter you probably won't have an issue... Worst case you might have to fit a fibreglass copy.

More insualtion.

Exactly whatever your SE says will withstand the mi force requirements. But we had an issue where our SE couldn't do this as they said they didn't know the qualities of the glass as it's not standard like concrete etc, and said that the glazing company would have to provide this. Good luck!

We just had some simple internal glass priced and it was about double what I was expecting based on previous purchases. Number I had in my head before scrolling down this post was £800-£900. You could underspec the glass a bit, as long as it met the BC requirements.

Just leave it, it holds together well. We got some carpet offcuts down but that's it.

French doors. Ours are 1m each and open in. Not as sexy as sliders or bifolds but a fraction of the price.

My guys had no bother getting the channels flat on the shallow depth ceiling section. It was a mix of concrete slab, timber joists and steels. I think the key is to pick you lowest spot to set your ceiling depth so you've a bit of flexibility with fixing the channels. You've also got a fair bit of freedom to where you put your fixings. I know there was one bit where they couldn't fix so the doubled up the channels, i.e. 300mm or 400mm spacing at the section.

I have exactly the same, and made my own staff from a length of ceiling channel section and timber batten. Invaluable for things like drainage and setting out slabs. Half the price of a rotary setup but less range and coverage but does the job for the likes of us.

Insulate the hell out of the house and just have UFH on the ground floor. Forget about upstairs - maybe electric towel rads in bathrooms.

Dig it out, phone for a new connection. Will take about a month. Only way.

Should be fine. Only concern would be the soffit and fascia in 15 years time when the plants are enivitably left to their own devices. Only suggestion I can think of would be to put up non woven weed membrane behind the trellis to stop any plants attaching themselves to the wall. Then again there are buildings 100s of years old covered in aggressive ivy that are just fine...

This is how I did it for my brewshed. Quite often had a a couple 3kw boilers and lighting going. We had an external socket at the back of the house that was on a small 30amp ring. I basically extended this loop out with two lengths of 3 core 6mm SWA. Once in the shed, I had a few double sockets on the loop and a 3amp fused spur for the LED lighting. Worked perfectly.

Our process took a year, largely due to drip feeding of consultations. I rebuked a fair few myself with photos and reports. It sounds your planning officer never made a site visit as they would have been able to sort out the majority of the above themselves.

Are the pipes leaving the manifolds warm to the touch? Are the return pipes warm or cold? What are the room stats set to? Note that your flow temperature might be set as low as 28c and if your abient is something 22c, there won't be much of a warming effect, bit definitely noticeable. We got ours fired up last week and could feel the warm floor leaving the plant room.

I stuffed gaps above ceiling level with mineral wool.

Oh, don't forget the zip line.

I'd do similar. Nice pea gravel zig zag path allt eh way up. This then breaks up your bank in to multiple zones than you can plant properly. As it would be difficult to maintain, I'd prefer just to plant small trees and shrubs most of the way up. The other (drastic) option is to excavate out a much bigger flat area at the bottom and build a retaining wall and completely forget about the higher area. That would be a big chunk of money and a lot of disruption.

Keep internal. Hardly any flow from and mvhr unless in the depths of a cold, damp winter. Even then it will creep down the sides of the pipe. Fyi my condensate drains are only 22mm until they connect to a 40mm branch at an appliance.

For that size of opening I'd be going for standard patio doors. Also substantially cheaper. Too narrow for bi-folds. We have a couple two metre openings in the house and they both have double patio doors.

Your inverter can limit the export. That's what I've had to do with mine. Once my G98 is approved, I'm putting in a G99 for the extra.