Jump to content
Funding the Forum - Thank You ! ×

Conor

Members
  • Posts

    4112
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    11

Everything posted by Conor

  1. We used steel straps under the sink and fixed to the unit sides to support our sink after it was set in with resin. Just a steel sink but there's a heavy insinkerator hanging under it.
  2. I'd reccomend a cordless SDS drill, rather than a full blown kango type SDS max machine. something around 2-3kg would do the job. I've a brushless Makita one and it's one of the best tools I've ever used. You'll need at least two batteries though, not cheap. https://www.toolstop.co.uk/makita-dhr242z-18v-cordless-li-ion-sds-plus-brushless-3-mode-rotary-hammer-drill-24mm-body-only-p67795/?gclid=CjwKCAjw9-KTBhBcEiwAr19ig48OgjUqC_KZYP28rK6y06msef8fERqFHYN4MoLjZ_xDdKu9LWJgaBoC1dMQAvD_BwE I also have a large titan sds machine and now rarely use it as the Makita can do 90% the same work but far lighter and a lot less tiring. The titan is now only used for core drilling
  3. I'd say, no. I went through two cheap Amazon laser levels and two distance measures before spending the extra on the DeWalt. Hasn't missed a beat, even when left out in the rain for a day by mistake. Just wish I'd spent the extra £50 or so at the very start. Cheap ones are fine for DIY, but on a dirty, dusty building site, they die.
  4. Just wish I got it a couple weeks ago when doing my drainage and foundations!
  5. Which one? I am thinking of this as it says it's compatible with my laser. https://www.diy.com/departments/dewalt-de0892-xj-laser-line-detector/954901_BQ.prd?ds_rl=1272379&ds_rl=1272409&ds_rl=1272379&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsdiTBhD5ARIsAIpW8CKaxSsuj5aLtsfEGTruhgHbCHJKOUUFFGyzz4J3BaxsiLnynI1qVjoaAqBVEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&storeId=1355
  6. If it's an invented system, there's no need to heat to kill.
  7. Yeah, just find the stop tap in the pavement, turn it off, cut your supply pipe and fit an temporary tap. For your own sake, do not go near Scottish water about this.
  8. It's your responsibility to provide the earth. If you look up the standard detail for the temporary supply connection kiosk, it'll be there. I'm amazed the meter was installed as you're meant to have everything earthed and tested before that stage.
  9. NMA. Push on regardless in the mean time.
  10. Ah, didn't realise it was a first floor. That complicates things as the escape route needs to be protected. And you'll also need an escape window.
  11. Unlikely to cut it for a room that size. Our architect said to keep internal store and wardrobe rooms to less than 2m wide as then you're unlikely to be able to use it for sleeping or leisure. From my experience with BC, that room will need its own means of escape. All you need to do is form a hallway lobby at the existing door and have the door in to each room there... So they both exit via the hallway, not through each other. So basically move the cinema room door slightly up, bring a wall across the existing room just past the window, put a door in, and job done.
  12. Just checked my price list from northstone and they have blocks at 38.5p each if ordered by the thousand. That was late 2020 tho so I'm sure it's up to 50p each now.
  13. That's how ours was done, connected off the OH service that went to our neighbours.
  14. Insist. It's great fun!
  15. Yeah mini digger and a few runs to local recycling centre. Job done for a couple hundred quid.
  16. Nope, won't to a thing apart from inhibit any natural soul processes. You'll still get weeds. We've weeds growing out of a pile of bricks ffs.
  17. @Conalmcn alpha flow screeds in Armagh. We dealt with Alan and Kirsty. Once you factor in two days labour for levelling and laying PIR boards, there's not much difference in price.
  18. Another length of U section or a set of these https://www.toolstation.com/flushmount-fitting/p60564 I think the biggest challenge would be welding the sections on to the steel sheets without burning through.
  19. Our roofers used stixall. No idea what they were doing with it tho 🤣
  20. Don't use the Screwfix stuff, yellows in no time.
  21. Weld a couple lengths of U section to the backs and hang them.
  22. Move the two bedroom wall studs and then bring the dressing room wall stud between the two, so you have three studs at the one point. You could probably ditch the extra bedroom wall stud.
  23. @Marvin. Nope, still not got a base made for it yet. Not needed heating for a few weeks now. The 3kW immersion is doing all our hot water. Have it time for during the day so largely covered by the PV.
  24. No point pulling anything through as you don't know what the provider will want. And you can't normally share ducts. Just leave the draw ropes there. Fire a couple concrete blocks around the ends of the ducts so they are easier to locate and dig up in the future. Same for your own ducting.. I'm putting one all around the house and just leaving access points at each former of the house and draw rope in place. I'll be pulling an electric cable through one section for the car charger bit that's it for now.
×
×
  • Create New...