Conor

That's a good price. 0.002% of your build cost....

You can move in whenever you want, just check with your insurance company. Our self build policy allowed to live in the house, and only lapsed once we got approval, then immediately got normal house insurance.

Pretty much how we did our ramp/steps, well compacted ground, a good thick mortar bed. Down a year an dno sign of movement. BUT... make sure there is drainage out through the side walls or else any water will make its way up through the pavers.

We've four bathrooms, only one has an opener, it's never opened.

+1 for sticky stuff remover.

Yes, 5mm poles are too flexible for going through a ceiling void horizontal. Max 2-3m before the tip drops down and gets snagged on the ceiling bars / insulation. I'd get 8mm if doing it again. And drawstring didn't work. Cable kept getting snagged. Better way was to attach the cable directly to the rod with tape. Installing the charger itself was easy. Project EV Apex 7. It's literally one cable, three connections each end. My consumer unit already had a 32amp RCBO installed with common neutral for the charger, so was just a matter of pulling the cable in and wiring it up. The Apex 7 doesn't need it's own earth, has lots of built in fault detection functions, so I'm confident it's all as should be and safe. Main motivation of doing DIY was not money, but time. We bought the car last Monday, only way to charger is at public fast chargers at ~65p/kWh. Couldn't get an electrician round any time soon.

Well, charger is up and running. About 8hours work in total, with plenty of faff on my belhalf. Can't figure out why the spark was looking £600 labour only.

Did this today.... Went as expected, tho I needed an extra hole in the ceiling in the hallway. Fiddly and uncomfortable job. Hopefully first and last time!!

Can go any depth. What you want to do is work back from the lowest point in the system (connection to sewer, septic tank etc) and work your inverts back from there. This ensures you have enough fall from your highpoint (bottom of rest bend) to your outflow. You need to ensure enough cover for you pipes. We laid our under slab waste pipes within the MOT type 3 layer. So was under all the membranes, slab etc. you don't really want the pipes in the slab. Another thing to consider is, how does the pipe get through the footings? If it's in the tench pour, you want to put it in now. More commonly it would go through the trench blocks.

Hi, a few parts to this! I need to bring a 6mm2 cable across from the consumer unit to opposite side of the house though the basement ceiling void to wire up an EV Charger. Was originally meant to be on the same side of the house as the consumer unit but, alas, things change. Consumer unit is prepped for the charger wiring, and the charger itself only needs the three core cable. The ceiling is all boarded up, so I want to minimise entry into the voids. The image below shows the locations, and the red line is the route I plan to take. There is an existing cable tray and I hope to get the cable in it (bonus). The walls are cored out where the trays pass through. Yellow squares are where I think I need cut into the ceiling to be able to push/pull through. Ceiling is suspended with about 150mm total space. I'll drill through the external wall from the outside, and hopefully be able to hook on to the cable and pull through. Really want to minimise opening and not have any in the hallway. Total cable length ~13m. Is this feasible? Any tips using a fibreglass rod? And Do i try and pull the wire itself or a draw cord first? Thanks

In roof panels and trays for that size will cost about £2000. Can be fitted easily and you can get the expensive inverter etc at a later date. And you'll save £500-£1000 on slates/tiles. Doing it after you complete the build will cost £5k+. Get a slightly cheaper kitchen if budget dictates.

You can stick it anywhere in the garden that won't be causing an inconvenience. Just need to size pipes and pumps appropriately.

Handsaw.

Just checked my Haldane and Murdock trade prices, £1.47 is the best I've seen. Is what it is.

Make sure you get a pump able mix then. Will be a bit more than you've been quoted

Recirculating kit if you have an MVHR. I don't know who has been advising you, but they would be against the current consensus. For the floor, put in 100mm insulation with 50mm liquid screed. I'd say 100mm sheets are easier to come by and cheaper than 90mm anyway. I assume the wood burner is room sealed with it's own air supply?

You need a fair bit of wiggle room in order to get everything lined up. And once you cast the bolts, you can't redo it. I used rawlplug resin.

Look just like my rollers. 12mm resin anchors will be what you want.

As above, the self adhesive clip rails are great. Lay them out, stick them down, then start laying your pipe, dead easy to get spacing set. You need a few staples on the bends.

Your gate kit should have them included or at least the spec. Mine required 12mm SS rods cast into the concrete. Think they had to be 250mm long, 50mm proud, 200mm set in. A rather large sliding gate tho.

We have a GRP balcony with 600x400 pavers on pedestals, brick pattern. You need one at each corner. They are fine set directly on the fibreglass, no other layer needed. For up against the edges, you can normally cut off one side of the pedestal base so you can pretty much get it right up to the wall. I put a dab of adhesive on the ones at the door thresholds that were partial cut slabs. Keeps them steady. I'm assuming your deck has a fall? You might need to mess around with glazing packers to get things right if the fall is greater than the float in the pedestals. It's an easy, satisfying job. I wouldn't even consider adhesive and grout, it'll fail eventually.

You just need WiFi. We've NO signal in our basement, very intermittent on the ground floor. No issues with WiFi calling enabled.

Magnet is great method. Put a bit of card between the magnet and the wall so you don't mark it. Use it all the time in our ICF house as there is no other way to find the plastic webs

Open cut and reinstatement will be the fastest and cheapest option. Ask around for a contractor that can do this. Biggest hurdle will be road opening license and utility searches / tracing / trial holes etc. the work itself is less than a day for a small crew. I've a mate that does this sort of work, based in Dundrum and works all over Co. Down, Armagh and Antrim. He's usually super busy and hard to get hold of tho! Esp now as he'll be maxed out doing pothole work.

Just use standard PVC pipe and surround in concrete. There should be a detail in the BC regs for this. What fall do you have with that cover? If it all goes wrong in the future, then you can look at a new connection. Definitely worth the gamble.