Conor

Not so sure. Check the instructions that came with the inverter and there is a sequence with the toggle switch that will activate the optimisers and get the unit generating. To get a solaredge account you need to apply through their website. Takes a day or two to be activated. But I teont think you need this if you connect to the unit directly through WiFi.

As Russel alludes to, the humidity in the air will remain high as long as there is moisture in the screed. Our air humidity didn't drop until moisture levels in the screed dropped below 10%.

They won't tho. Temps will never drop that low due to residual heat in the loft, heat coming from below (despite insulation) and the insulating effect of the roof structure. It takes a very long, very cold period of weather to have lagged pipes in a loft freeze. We had it here back in 2010/2011 but loft pipe bursts we're almost only in unoccupied or unheated properties (we did a lot of analysis for the water company afterwards).

That's an air valve. Keep it clear.

Just put 400mm of mineral wool on the loft floor. They way you are proposing is more expensive, time consuming and not as effective. Just lag the water pipes really well.

I have the ASHP set to heat water to 45c between 6am and 8am.... This is on our low rate tarrif of 10p. Plus the PV is generating something. This is purely to ensure there's always water for morning showers. Rest off the time the Solic diverter heats the tank to 56c. I think the ASHP has been on only once or twice in the last week or so after I set this up- that was a day after lots of washing machine /dryer action and extra showers.

Have you ordered them yet? You really want galvanised posts. Failing that, bitimous based waterproofing paint is appropriate. Cap it and don't worry about the inside.

We had the opposite issue. Allowed 20mm for engineered wood flooring. We changed to 12mm laminate at the last minute, so used 5mm wood fibre underlay to bring it up to the right height. You'll not motoce a 10mm gap at the thresholds, so definitely allow for the thickest floor covering you'd likely go for.

So basically your threshold is about 230mm above the B&B floor? Take away insulation (150mm), and your left with about 80mm. Allow 20mm for flooring, anqother 10mm for error, and your down to 50mm. The key thing is the floor finish at the door threshold. 5mm lvt or 30mm limestone slabs?! That'll determine your screed finish level. You need to decide this yesterday. You normally do this on the reverse way, set your thresholds based on a set depth of insulation, screed and floor finishes.

Nope. The MVHR heat exchanger works both ways. As long as the bypass is closed, you'll be cooling the fresh incoming air with the extracted air. You should be able to set the thresholds for the bypass opening and closing in the unit. Keep it simple.

I'm running at half that, it only runs at 600 when on boost. I've more work to do getting everything fully working and properly setup.

Fyi when picking a unit don't pick one that can barely meet the flow rates, you want a good bit of head room. We needed 600m3hr but the combined capacity of my two units is 800m3hr. For a 380m2 house you'll struggle with a single unit, that's why we went for two.

I went through hundreds of cans of foam and half a dozen cleaners. Failure rate was at least 1 in 10. The B&Q no no sense we're the worst. Sent not several back, all loosing gas before use. After then I always gave the cans a good hard squeeze in the shop!

Wow, I really hope your BCO ist that fussy. We have a quooker flex and it's wonderful(ly expensive).

That looks like an awkward detail. It would be normal to extend the mesh right to the edge of the slab, and have the the additional mesh at the bottom of the ring beam as shown. Go back to the SE and ask for an easier to build option. Failing that, simply cut the mesh and tie / weld after set in position (faff).

Say nothing to Severn Trent. You have the right to use it. However, you should keep storm water separate and use soak aways and other discharges / SUDS methods were possible. Yours, a water / environmental engineer.

We had a similar scenario and the SE wanted a 80mm SHS wind post on the ends of the walls. We also dowelled and grouted the precast slabs. You'll definitely need something similar. You elevation drawing shows a brick head above the windows? Is that under neath the slab? How will you do this detail?

By the time you've hired a thermal camera, poked around, figured out what to do, you'd have an extra 100 or 200mm laid. I know the price has gone up, how much would it be for your loft? When I did it, it was only about £300.

The fact that they have got an engineer in to give it the "OK" screams red flag to me. Doubt it was done right and don't be surprised if there is no building control approval. An engineer couldn't say whether the alterations were OK without knowing the construction details. If the above assumption is true, and you still really want the property, I'd be taking out a defects indemnity policy and asking for a drop in the purchase price. They'll likely accept, because of the sale falls through they'll have a job selling it again.

The UFH system you use has nothing to do with whether you can cool or not. It's all about the heat pump. You just need the right type of control valve setup to allow the UFH to circulate with cold water and not go through the hot water cylinder.

Not ideal. Do you have room for 2x 45° bends with a short length of pipe between? If you're replacing the MH can you not move/rotate a bit? Any photos?

Put a tempory balustrade up, then apply for regularisation down the line once you get the balconies sorted. That's exactly what we've done. Not pretty but BCO happy and that's all I care about at the moment.

I used ITS, best price I could find as a lot of places didn't ship to NI. Cost was £4200 for a 5pkW system with GSE roof trays. I did have to spend another £150 on cable and MC connectors and crimping tool tho as the kit only came with enough to connect the panels, not enough back to the inverter. Not got the bill from the spark yet but expect it to be about £800. I installed all the roof trays and panels myself. He also provided a test certificate which satisfied my electric supplier so I'm eligible for payments (8p per kWh so not much).

Pipes are generally known by their outside diameter, same for the fittings.

Nope. My filter gets cleared out regularly.