Conor

I agree that induction hobs are terrible for woks, but I've seen one of these in action in a restaurant and they are fantastic. Worth considering to save you a lot of hassle. https://www.nisbets.co.uk/buffalo-induction-wok/ja372

More likely a chemical reaction between the wet concrete and the boards.

No, just connect your new supply pipe to the back of the meter box where the builder disconnected the original supply. you'll want 25mm mdpe brought to your plant room. I'm assuming the builder just removed the old pipe to near the meter and stuck in a tempory stand pipe for the build.

Where is it? Garden or at the house?

Yes, I had to cut out a section of our cabinet base as we have a massive sink, water filter and waste disposal unit, just no room for the tank. Looks a right mess but there nothing else in there so door is rarely opened.

Better off having a level sensor that switches the pump off before it runs dry. And you can have a similar for filling the tank from the mains supply, if desired. I'm sure there's also a way to use a shelly relay in the setup so you can have it timed remotely monitored and activated.

Contact them. We had similar, 5 weeks and application still not online. Architect contacted them, and they hadn't verified it as there was a mismatch between some text in the form and a drawing... But they never bothered contacting us to correct it.

Ahh, hadn't thought of that. Yes, go with the aco, and a permeable subbase for good measure.

Pavers on pedestals. Dead easy., no drainage issues. Plenty of topics here about it.

Can you move another 400mm away from your neighbour?! That would simplify things greatly.

Oh, one more thing. We installed 15m of frameless ballustrading. Part of it was to go onto a brick wall. SE was having none of it. So we used a length of RSJ that was secured at each end to stop twisting. You might have that option there- length of steel running along the top of your block work, then encase in your roofing material and ballustrade fixings.

Build a garden room for your music and put the £75k you saved yourself into your retirement fund.

What stage are you at? It's not an ideal design, a better one would be a full roof terrace, with an alternative way to get light down to below. E.g. light tunnels, windows on the gable wall. Or, my preference when we toyed with a similar design, smaller sections of walk-on glazing roof lights spread across the roof, same dimensions as the paving. You get a lot of light from horizontal glazing, you need a lot less than you think. It's a good example of a design not considering CDM. How do the glazers install the windows? How do you clean the gutters? The roof light on the LHS might be an issue as well as looks to be low enough to fall into. Good luck, hopefully an easy solution is waiting to be discovered.

We've a charging drawer. Hidden drawer in the island behind a cupboard door, sockets in it for charging. Simple, out of the way but handy.

It's likely powering a device that doesn't have a mains connection - e.g. logger/telemetry system on a utility, LED sign etc etc. Often these units are cheaper than getting a connection to the mains. Also, if there are road opening embargoes, like you would in a new development, there might not be the option to make a connection.

You can use anything over ufh. We've a range of carpet, lvt, tiles, and thick laminate. They all work, once flow rates set correctly.

In terms of operating, I set mine to a fixed flow temp (13c as our dew point is normally around 10c) and let it run 24x7 with all zones open (expect basement)during the heat wave. it works well. But, I'm in NI and "hot" for us is about 25c. We don't even see 30c here. Yet.....

You'll want it to be insulated, and built quickly and simply. ICF would be my choice. We'll be doing the same as well soon.

If there is a chance of water flowing the road in heavy rain, then you want to plan for that. We re-laid the road side kerbs so they were sitting 20mm higher than the road, and put in a bitmac apron with a fall to one side. For the rest its gravel grids and 14mm stone. Works well, no need for any additional drainage. you could lay a short section of channel drain. If you wanted to use grids, all you'd need to do there is smooth the surface out, put down a skim of sand or dust, then the grids and gravel. Loose gravel on a slope is just a waste of time.

Are you using glycol? Inhibited glycol should be all you need. And water, obviously.

Jetting attachment for a pressure washer. Don't be surprised if the blockage is due to a broken pipe. Endoscope camera would be handy. What are those other pipes discharging in? Anything from a kitchen sink or dishwasher? Could be fat build up in that case.

I had 5tonnes of sand and soil to move to the back of the house two weeks ago. we deliberately ensured we have vehicular access to all parts of the garden. I hitched the trailer up to the car and got shovelling

You need undercoat. Then a single coat of good gloss usually does the job. Paint before fitting. 10x easier.

We ha da ICF build, but wanted another 100mm EPS on the outside to get to passive house stnadard. The builder used 50mm PIR instead for the lower floor. So I over boarded those sections with another 50mm EPS. Used 100mm EPS on the upper floor that wasn't in the builder's scope. You wont be able to render onto the PIR. Options are to fix cement (render) board, or a thin layer of EPS. You'll need mechanical fixings. No need to take the PIR off.

You can get a 7kW charger for £300-£500. Virtually all EVs have a type 2 socket, and that wont change any time soon. Only exception are the 1st generation Leafs, Zoes etc, so no worries about compatibility. Your spark has done all the hard work, dead easy to install the actual unit.