Conor

@CalvinHobbes are you putting in a temporary service as well? Get that done as the same quote as it'll save you fees and another three month wait. That's the way we did it, then they came out, did the disconnection and then I just phoned them a few weeks later once I had th kiosk ready and they came out again.

Nope, they're the sole network owner in NI.

That's about right. Ours came to £2300 for similar work. You don't have any other option really. I tried to get the VAT dropped as it was related to a new build, but the wouldn't. Worth a try yourself anyway.

Speak to your plumber. BCO never looked at my setup, just the certificate for the cylinder. The waste still isn't connected up.

From my understanding the waste pipe on an UVC is part of an emergency pressure relief system? In which case if it's ever activated, it'll have the full mains pressure behind it... In which case you could just have the pipe run up to the ceiling and connect in to a soil pipe using a saddle and boss adapter?

That's about right, we built for £1200/m2 in 2021/2022 but that was before prices really went up. Doubt you could do less than £1500m2 overall, unless you're building to a min spec. Allow a good £300k unless you plan on getting your hands dirty and / or managing it yourself. And you need to allow for design and consultancy fees (10%)

Are they tilt and turn? Speak to your window company as a lot of them can be configured to be tilt only. (if not an escape window). We're getting ours done shortly, think it's about £25 a window.

MF all the way. It'll be done in a fraction of the time and ceiling will be dead flat.

Just leave a 100-150mm gap between the wall and the path and fill with gravel, that's the detail we have around the perimeter of our basement house. Allows after to drain down to the drain below, and prevents Rain splashing up the walls or standing water to soak up. Only detail you're missing is a cavity drain board against the EWI to protect it against damage from stones. It's not expensive or difficult to fit, just a dimpled palstic roll with fleece on one side. Also stops water pooling against the wall.

I'd echo above. We put network points in to almost all rooms. So far, apart from the main router were using one (old smart TV with no WiFi). Everything is WiFi these days so I really don't see the value of networking an entire house, instead put in a couple mesh WiFi hubs In key places for good coverage.

Yep, we've managed to empty our 300l cylinder before when we had a couple people visiting. It's only at 45-48c so little or no mixing at the tap. You could get away with 200l at a minimum.

It would be local ground level as you have to account for any slopes. E.g. if you have a fall of 500mm over the length and used the existing floor level as the datum, then your trench would only be 600mm deep. So you use the local ground level and introduce steps so you maintain a consistent depth. Of you've a fall of 100mm, I wouldn't worry too much. The whole point is to ensure you are down to firm, undisturbed ground and to allow enough depth for the concrete. It'll all change once you start digging!!!

That's great to hear. I think with the current energy ripoff that should be more and more common. Our architect was the one that insisted we put in the UFH as has had instances of lower valuations and reselling issues with some of his PH clients. The local estate agent we're friendly with said the same thing that a house with no CH would be an issue for our location.

Do you think you'll ever sell the house? Do you think a house with no central heating will be a turn off for potential buyers? That's why we stuck in UFH and an ASHP. May not be used, but no way somebody is going to pay market rate for a 300m2 house with no heating. £10k well spent. When we first moved in, three 1.5kW fan heaters on for 12hrs at a time kept the house at 18-20c when it was 8c outside and the house still drying out. So I'm certain we could live comfortably without the ASHP and UFH... But it's in and will be used.

Plasterboard saw. Cut it big and rough then just foam around.

Yep, you need the boom pump. We had a small pour (2 point something m3) and the builder did that with a telehandler borrowed from the neighbouring site and four guys with lots of buckets. Took them a couple of hours. No way you could do that on a large scale. Think you're going to have to go for a block cavity build here as you won't get timber frame lorries down there either.

Gripfill. No point spending more.

We had our flow temp set to 13c on a couple hot days. Worked well, no condensation (except on the flow part of the manifold), knocked a good 4-5c off the internal temp, floor only felt cold if you lay on it

Our max system output is 4.5kW, but the 5kW inverter has been limited to 3.7kW by the commissioner, so G98.

Still not done the g98 form... It's on the list. It's just PV for now, will consider batteries in the future, but highly unlikely as we're going to be buying an EV in the next year which will take all the excess PV and be charged off peak, so don't see the value of a second battery.

Fiat point, I have no idea of how much batteries cost.

DIY is no problem. That's a big chunk of money. My DIY 4.5pkW cost £4800 (no batteries). That was £4200 for the panels, cables, optimisers, inverter (solaredge), GSE in roof tray kit and £800 for the sparks to connect the two string cables to the inverter and consumer unit and commission. I installed the trays and panels myself, connected the panels to the optimisers and main string cables. It's literally fool proof plugging together.

Usually B&Q when they've something like a 3 for 2 offer on. Put a couple layers down. First one, 100mm across the joists and then another 200mm the oppotsie way. Don't push too far under the eaves. fix any gaping holes in the ceiling while your there, esp around light fittings. I'd do it sooner rather than later as I can see a rush for insulation and anything to do with energy saving happening as soon as the first cold weather bites. And it's a days easy work (overalls and dust masks a must)

You could just get a heatpump that will do all your heating and hot water. Run off the batteries during the day if needed. Then no complex heat battery setup. And 3x more efficient than the direct electric heating. With a monblock you just need a cylinder inside. And of course a solar diverter will cover your joteater needs for a chunk of the year.

I'd agree. Brickies work so, so much faster than a "good amature". It's one of those trades (like plastering) that's not worth taking up yourself unless it's a small amount or you have a LOT of time. Brickies work in squads with the guys doing the laying having a constant supply of ready-mix mortar and bricks stacked at their sides, and not having to clean up. If you do the brick work all on your own, you spend half the day moving stuff around, mixing, and cleaning, rather than laying. I'm doing all the little garden walls and stuff in our place, I started the block work for the retaining walls, then calculated out how long it would take me at my pace... Two months of evenings and weekends. Two brickies would have it done in 4 days. That's the first job once our mortgage corms through.