Mr Punter

I have used Bluclad board screwed to vertical battens and 2 no. 3mm coats of Weber LAC - the first used to bed a fibre mesh sheet. The render can be sponge finished to a sanded render texture, then painted. I saw one we did 8 years ago. No cracks or marks at all.

Good drawings. Did he also have some spec notes for ventilation, waste sizes, roof, floor and wall buildups etc? Did he do the full building regs submission? Did he reply to any points raised from the plan check?

Either 75mm normal screed or 50mm liquid. Double check with insulation and screed suppliers for peace of mind. Put a thin strip of insulation around the perimeter.

Swing shovel = what they call an excavator in Devon (or at least @joe90 does)

Magic indeed @PeterW and nice to have some pics @Christine Walker but not a truss to be seen!

Kylie Jenner wearing only a smile?

Maybe too much suction. Pretty soul destroying to remedy.

You should be supplied with a full set of structural calcs from them. You should also have a spec saying what is included. Make sure the sole plate is completely level, walls are plumb, hangers fully nailed, floor fixed in accordance with spec, roof trusses / rafters mechanically fixed, rafter feet have correct overhang, fascia (if included) fitted at correct height, window / door / rooflight openings correct, thresholds cut out on completion of frame and whole work site left clean and tidy, as these are all things that some erection teams tend to "overlook".

No need to be pissed off. This will, I am afraid, be one of many issues and not one you need to lose sleep over. I have never seen a timber frame without a few tears in the breather paper. If you want to do a better job of the breather paper repair, make a horizontal cut with a Stanley knife just above the damage cut out a fill-in piece of new slide up the slit, dress down over the damage and fasten with stainless staples.

Plasterboard is the standard way but you can buy specialist clear intumescent varnish. Expensive, but the Building Inspector will be happy

@Ed_MK are these exposed structural timber columns inside the building? If so, the exposed faces will need 30 minute protection against fire.

Be very careful to clean up any splashes and splatters as once dry it is very hard to remove.

Hi @DrawCAD. If you type @ you get a dropdown of usernames to choose from and they get notified that you have mentioned them.

What a cowboy. This needs to be insulated to comply with building regs in England. I can't imagine this being different in Scotland.

I would use type 1 to part fill where it is over 50mm and sharp sand elsewhere, compact with a whacker to get it nice and level. Cleaner and more forgiving than concrete and simple to DIY.

I can't see it being an issue as your current system looks very simple

I am with the 900mm being too small to be of any use. 1500mm depth means you can have a table and enough room to get round one side. Can you make it deeper? I assume this is supported on posts and they are properly detailed at the base so they don't rot? You will need an outlet and downpipe for the drain. Will the drain channel have a built-in fall? What is the plan for the soffit underneath and the finish on the sides? If this is going the be used and is overlooked, consider using obscure glass so you are less exposed.

Has an engineer looked at the building? It is important that the external brick wall is properly stable and restrained, otherwise it may compromise the structure. If you want to go blockwork internal, it must be built plumb. You will need a selection of wall tie lengths. Do as @PeterW suggested with blown in beads.

As above but fix horizontal resilient bars to the vertical battens before fixing the plasterboard. Seal all the edges with mastic before you fix skirtings.

If the trusses are cheaper for supply and fit then I would go with them. Metal resilient bars are cheap and if you fit them at right angles under the trusses before you fit the plasterboard ceiling it will cut down on noise. You could always double board as well. Add some Rockwool acoustic insulation in the floor void. Take a look at the suggestions from plasterboard firms as most of their solutions are properly tested / measured for sound attenuation. Really like the 3d btw. Who did it? And welcome to the forum!

I guess there was no dimmer. Was the fitting reasonably well ventilated (not covered in insulation)?

Actually I noticed a few. Please strim and re-post. Quite shocking.

How are you dealing with the foundation for the new wall? How far out of true is the existing? Did you look at doing the inner leaf in timber frame, as you only need a residual 50mm cavity and you can insulate in the depth of the frame.

The LA are not going to do anything about it. It is very difficult to control the use of privately owned property. You may be in hot water if you rent it, however. Carpet and stairs could just make it a games or hobby room.

Maybe also consider Leca expanded clay beads to fill the void