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Mr Punter

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Everything posted by Mr Punter

  1. Mr Punter
    I think if you are dealing with a main contractor it would be better to have the architect as contract administrator. Will they also act on your behalf as Client under CDM? If you are going down the main contractor route it important that you are left with as little financial risk as possible.
  2. Mr Punter
    I have used temporary downpipes to stop the walls getting soaked.
  3. Mr Punter
    Don't think about crushing on site as the dust and noise will be unacceptable.
  4. Mr Punter
    There is no general rule for demo contracts and it depends what was agreed. I would normally expect the structure to be demolished and removed from site. Slab and foundations would be an extra. If the concrete is in a pile it may be fairly inexpensive to dispose of. Is the machine still on site? Have you got quotes to complete the work?
  5. Mr Punter
    I have used Fermacell in the past and found it very expensive and difficult to cut. Last job we used Knauf Soundshield Plus plasterboard. Very tough, good sound and fire resistance, holds a screw OK and is not bad value. We used this on a conversion and achieved v. good sound test results.
  6. Mr Punter
    So far I think that @Polly has made a decent fist of representing her firm's product, albeit with a lack of evidence on how it actually works.
  7. Mr Punter
    @laurenco needs to bear in mind that with the Velfac system the moving outer sash and the fixed inner frame are the same size which means that to structural opening needs to be larger than normal.
  8. Mr Punter
    You will need some detail drawings of the jambs, cill and head. This will show the location of the window in the frame, air sealing, any additional insulation, battening, cement board, render and plasterboard. Quite often with the Velfac windows you will need to order cill packers and a separately ordered aluminium cill screws into this. You need to allow for this in the structural opening. You should allow for 12mm either side between the window and the finished render as the sashes are the full width of the window. Have a good look at the Velfac site.
  9. Mr Punter
    Once the heating is on the insulation will allow the concrete to warm to the same temperature as the house so you won't get any condensation. Those crack may hold a bit of water from before your waterproofing was completed.
  10. Mr Punter
    Is this just the concrete drying out? Is there any insulation above? As long as the waterproof layer is OK I can't see how there is an issue.
  11. Mr Punter
    For this sort of job it is best to get 3 people over to have a look and decide what needs doing and get a written quote from each. It may be that you did not specify what you wanted and ended up with a cowboy job. What was the total contract sum and what was he supposed to do for that?
  12. Mr Punter
    Often the DPM is under concrete slab with the wall just built to DPC level.
  13. Mr Punter
    I have bought some nice looking stainless steel vents with non-return type flaps and some have gone a bit rusty.
  14. Mr Punter
    Yep
  15. Mr Punter
    I have not read back through the thread but the steel will prob be quite heavy, may be a thermal bridge and need web packing / joist hangers where if the I beams just span wallplate - to - wallplate they will be simpler.
  16. Mr Punter
    First hit on Google was this: http://www.builderdepot.co.uk/treated-firring-47mm-x-50mm-to-nothing-3-6m-length.html It is 3.6m. If you need longer you can extend from the fat end with 47mm x 50mm with a firring piece on top. For a further extension you will need a 47mm x 100mm with a firring on top. I think some places will make up whatever size you like so you don't need to use 2 pieces for each section. Just see which is cheaper.
  17. Mr Punter
    If it is less than 5 years old it may still be under guarantee. Phone the "engineer" and ask what he thinks is broken beyond economic repair.
  18. Mr Punter
    I think the VCL needs to move to the inside of the wall and use a breather membrane on the outside. You could use 2 breather membranes - 1 on the OSB and 1 over the external insulation. I don't know what the double side tape is sticking to other than the concrete. Why not single sided tape lapped from concrete, along DPC, then up to the internal VCL? Regarding sole plate mortar, is this going above or below the DPC? Often I have seen the mortar applied with a pointing gun after the frame is erected - packers are used in the meantime under each stud. 12mm should be fine for the tile adhesive.
  19. Mr Punter
    I am with @Stones regarding the Heras. Set it nice and straight and maybe in line with the neighbouring buildings. Regarding boundary treatments, have a look around and go with what fits in. Maybe get @Redoctober round to tidy up a bit.
  20. Mr Punter
    If you have different height walls front and back the sides will need the top course cut and the wall plate will need mortar bedding to give it proper support. Doors, windows, tall furniture, pictures, mirrors etc may loo a bit odd if placed on the sloped walls.
  21. Mr Punter
    How do you plan to achieve the required fall? Timber firrings are normally cheapest. Not sure where the gutters will be.
  22. Mr Punter
    I have used a large industrial squeegee for this and it is excellent especially if you have external openings down to the floor and remove the thresholds. Sourced from janitorial suppliers.
  23. Mr Punter
    Looks to me like the wall is supporting joists from above, as the laths on the ceiling run parallel to the wall. so the wall is structural. If you can't afford a structural engineer and a bit of steel you will need to leave this as is.
  24. Mr Punter
    Any pics Ian?
  25. Mr Punter
    Paint the doors and cornice a neutral colour. Replace the wall tiles. The ones one the cooker run could be tiled over if they are tricky to remove. Replace the floor.
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