Mr Punter

Maybe just some 40mm Celotex onto existing floor topped off with VCL and 18mm chipboard would be OK. Headroom probably not an issue if this is an understair cupboard.

You could just take the cill up and have a look.

It is very common. Very little effort goes into insulating window heads, cills and reveals.

https://www.rubberroofs.co.uk/installation

I just took delivery of a stone resin shower tray. I wonder if you could use a similar material and technique for a worktop?

Left hand looks like Siberian larch heartwood. Right hand looks like crap and not genuine. The Siberian larch I have had was all a similar (high) density. It looked fairly ginger in colour. It is slow growing and the growth rings are therefore fairly tight.

I have used EDPM on a large garage. It is cheap and fairly simple to DIY. I got it made as a single sheet but it was quite unwieldy. Joins, junctions, abutments, upstands and penetrations can be quite tricky, but I think this goes for many systems.

You can get the SE to prepare a tender package for the groundworks. If they are local they may have a few firms they will suggest. On the subject of muckaway but a bit off topic, a castle wall collapsed into the back garden of a building near me yesterday. They estimated 600 tonne of flint and chalk. It looks like it may be tricky to get at. https://www.theargus.co.uk/news/18030513.lewes-castle-wall-collapse-devastating-drone-footage-lays-bare-destruction/

Another decent week. Is this all being done on a price? Looks like it will be a high one!

£400 is robbery. Keep ringing round. Make a note of muck lorries when you are driving around. Work out how many you need. Get 20 tonne ones and load them with a large excavator as grab lorries are only good for a few loads.

Could this work using any of the standard Velux stuff? They work down to 15 degree pitch and have a wide range of module sizes and glazing options. You may need to protect them from being walked on.

Bear in mind that outward opening French doors a prone to being blown about by the wind. The handle operated friction brakes are OK good but often seem to operate only on the main leaf. Sliding, folding and tilt/turn could be alternatives. I would change the small pair of doors in the living room to a window similar dims to the one in the first floor bedroom. Btw can you request to change the upstairs bathroom door so it opens inwards as it will be a pain as drawn.

I have found highways to be fairly approachable. Perhaps a pre application site meeting with you or your agent / consultant would be the best way forward. Even if the wall owner does not support your scheme they may be more amenable if you agree a cash compensation figure to lower the wall height. Could look good with some railings on a dwarf wall instead.

If you are planning on contiguous piling to form the basement walls you may as well dig the middle out and concrete the floor. Digging and muckaway is fairly cheap. You need to consider daylighting, ventilation, drainage, insulation and waterproofing. Waterproof concrete is very difficult and expensive to get right. If you went with an internal drained cavity it is much less risk and you can do it later.

Not quite the look that @PeterW goes for...

The most recent we had were 40 no. @ 435kN SWL

For larger buildings it is worth splitting into zones where you can control time and temperature with a programmable stat for each zone. Rather than ON or OFF I just set the required minimum temperature. for the time of day. Leave it the same year round.

There are plenty of people here who have your back. No fee. Just ask.

If you are single storey timber frame, bricklaying is simple and cheaper than slips. Not on the critical path. Wet plaster v. jointing and sanding there is not much in it. Fermacell = Fermahell. Your budget allows you to get decent contractors in for the whole project and it should not take too long. As soon as the frame is up you can get bricklayer, plumber, sparky and roofer on site.

I have been told in the past by NHBC to limit the number of downlights or use fire rated ones as it may otherwise compromise the structure of the floor above. filedownload,84608,en.pdf

Well done! Would you dare to post your budget costings, so they can be compared against actual at the end?

I live near the GD "Rusty House". I have not noticed any streaks but I think this risk was largely designed out. They have even done boundary fencing in the same stuff. I they have perforated panels. I think it was expensive. I am not very keen on the look. The guy who installed it found it a pain to work with. I have read that the material can sometimes suffer from premature failure due to corrosion.

Hessian sacking? http://www.tarpaflex.co.uk/acatalog/Hessian-Roll-137cm-x-46m-HESS.html

I am no expert but the brickwork and the site looks very tidy. No point on trying to save a few quid when this is so focal so I think you have done the right thing going with him. I also approve of the Makita radio.

Not for me or for many others here.