Mr Punter

Another vote for the pulley maid. I wonder why they only make them to look olde style?

@Adam2 Is it the case that these will only be suitable for the driveway or are they going to be used for the house as well?

I have not had issues with Kingspan or Celotex. I have found some other makes have shrunk / warped but can't remember the brands and I don't want to accuse an innocent.

Has anyone used the IG Hi-therm+ lintels for a brick/block build? They are meant to be good at reducing thermal bridging. I was going to use them on a project but the lead time was too long.

They look like Eternit composite slate. Not my favourite but quite cheap and they last OK.

Link?

We have to deal with meter numbers, MPAN numbers and plot numbers with new developments and conversions and when it goes wrong it takes months, sometimes years, to get sorted.

Well Rod you certainly have a house that is unique.

Their standard board is no good as a render carrier. They do a cement based board as well, but their normal boards are gypsum based and prone to mould.

Litter tray!

Shame to have to mess about again for just a storage container. They should have brought a more suitable vehicle to offload. You will need the big boy telehandler to move that.

As per @ProDave and if you fit whole house MVHR ducting you can change the actual unit when it dies or becomes obsolete. Single room units maybe best if you are in a studio flat or for retrofit.

It looks fine. It is more usual to have measurements in millimetres. When you build this make sure you cut to open the cavity between bedroom 2 and the enlarged bathroom or you will have cold bridge and damp issues.

Crushed concrete is probably the cheapest way to make up the levels. It needs to be spread in layers and very well compacted.. You could put a 100mm layer of type 1 on this an it will wack down nice and flat. EPS is fine as insulation, then concrete on top. Did you consider doing a passive slab, which is a reinforced concrete raft sitting on insulation?

What a fantastic project! How do you plan to build it? It looks quite tricky and expensive.

The Icon 15 is fine for WCs and for bathrooms where the duct run is short. For longer runs, the mixed flow Icon 30 is better.

The pir in the walls was a good call. Any fall on the roof? Could you do a shallow apex? Do you have proper drainage for the WC? Commendable if you do!

I have done this using two iCON 30 mixed flow fans. They have an iris to prevent backdrafts so you don't get air from the other bathroom.

I have used Finish Architectural a few times and found them to be good.

If it is the whole width of the house I would say it could not be done without a very large downstand which would restrict headroom indoors. Epic steel and supporting structure needed.

The blues are not too bad to clean. I have had some covered in concrete from a floor and they cleaned up OK over a year later.

They are only rooflights and not installed in the side elevations so should be fine. If you cannot overlook neighbouring gardens from them - they look too far up to do so - you will be OK.

As a rule I find a 50:50 split between living areas and bedroom areas works well, so unless there is an integral garage at the front I don't see the point in having the setback 1st floor at the back. The garden room and kitchen will get so hot they will be almost unusable for a fair amount of time. You should design this out now instead of trying to mitigate it after it has been built. As others have mentioned the folding doors can really get in the way.

The new roof and dormers look great. I like the bonnet tiles and the verges look neat. It looks like it was designed with the extra floor rather than just lashed on. Another pic when the scaffold is down would be good.

I can see your thinking. It is a bit awkward having the door swing over the steps but as long as BC are OK with it, you are the only person needing to use it and it is def the simplest.