Mr Punter

When you do the tree assessment for foundation design it assumes the tree is fully grown, even if it is currently a sapling. Mainly it shrinkable clay soil that will be an issue.

Bear in mind there were over 400 posts on his "Basic cement / Ballast" post and over 1600 on his "Help with kitchen renovation / 1st house" post. I know he seems a bit spammy / troll-like, but I quite enjoy @zoothorn's topics, if not always his sometimes tiresome posts.

Don't underestimate this. It may need you to employ a qualified archaeologist to do a written scheme of investigation, a watching brief where they monitor as you excavate, and a report. Perhaps budget between £2,000 and £4,000. We used to be able to just make a small donation to the local archaeological society, but now this is "developer funded" it is a full on business!

Setting out a simple layout on a clear level site is not too tricky to DIY. A complex design on an undulating site with different slab or foundation levels would be well beyond me.

For appliances that come with a plug I like trailing sockets on flexible cable behind the plinth. You can just release the plinth and unplug them if needed. Cutting off the plug and wiring into a flex outlet, with a switch on the wall, looks messy, makes it more difficult to remove and I doubt it does the warranty any favours.

Schadenfreude fest!

I have paid £4,900, £1,080 and £540. The expensive one was in 2007 but it did help us gain consent and the rules were not so clear cut then.

It was supply and fit from a metal cladding firm. It comes on a roll and they cut and bend on site. They are Brighton based.

We did some in dark coloured aluminium, but anthra zinc would look similar..

I have done several houses in flood risk areas near a river. A flood risk assessment was carried out which looked at historic flooding - depth, velocity, speed of inundation, likely return period. They consulted the Environment Agency and were informed of minimum habitable floor levels. The ground floors are flood resilient - concrete floor with tiles, rendered concrete block internal g/f walls, brick and block external. Non-habitable rooms only on g/f (office / study / store / garage). Upper floors for kitchen, living and bedrooms. In the event of a flood you would probably need new skirtings, pipe boxings, a couple of internal doors and redecoration, so not a catastrophe.

I have some of these oriel windows in timber frame, but 2300mm wide and 330mm deep. Your cavity wall looks about 275mm, so you will have quite a deep cill and reveal with your 400mm add-on if you set the window near to the outside. If you clad the sides with OSB it will act as racking resistance. Ours are just timber frame panels and they don't have gallows brackets.

Wow. Never seen this before. Is it just mortar? Looking forward to seeing the flint infill (although obviously not trying to rush you). The panels look more substantial than I imagined.

Why all the holes?

Hence the baby?

Where do you dry the laundry?

Fantastic. We did our wedding DIY on a shoestring with help from friends and family. I think it helps make it special.

I thought it was commonplace to fit a stainless liner when installing a stove and to fill around with vermiculite.

I know you have the light switches in place, but could you try rotating the bed and have it against the internal west wall?

Can't he collect the surface water in ACO type drainage and direct it to a soakaway or ditch? No need to rip up the yard, just a neat cut. It is pretty obvious why we need to keep rainwater and sewage separate where possible.

If you post a picture during wall removal and after the steel is in place it would be of interest to lots of members.

Where is the shower? If possible have a separate extract from the shower located in the ceiling above the shower tray and leave it to overrun for at least 20 mins.

I assume this is an extension. The rafter size depends on the span, the proposed loading and the timber grade and needs to be properly calculated. You may be able to reference a span table for this. I assume the steel ridge is at right angels to the main house wall and the roof pitches both sides. It may be better to have a flat ceiling and insulated a t ceiling joist level. You could even do the roof with lightweight trusses and lose the steel beam.

If it is only 3m2 of single skin brickwork it will be very cheap. You could just get someone to start a couple of courses to keep them quiet. I don't think they can easily compel you to complete it quickly.

Did you apply to the council to get the brick type approved? They can be quite particular regarding what is acceptable within the curtilage of a listed building. Is the remaining footing wide enough to take the brick facing?

When was the drain fitted? It looks like it is taking water from a fair area - not like a front door threshold.