Mr Punter

They need to see the smoke to work and the smoke will not get into a recess easily. I have Aico and they are fine. I guess yours will be more obvious with the mirrored ceilings everywhere?

I don't see why it cannot be replaced. It is not listed and neither are you in a conservation area. Get a decent scheme designed and submit it, as I cannot see why it should be refused. What the planners and neighbours "like" or dislike has little bearing on things, it is a matter of policy and a refusal would need robust justification.

Often there will be an elevation showing a neighbouring building and the proposed building. so it can be easy to compare eaves, ridge, thresholds etc. If not and there are no heights specified on plan, just make the heights above the ground level is the same as per the elevation drawings. Did the neighbour complain to you or to the planners?

I think if it is cement bonded and the existing slab has to be removed you may be best burying it under the new slab. It is entirely harmless in this situation and far more damaging if removed / planed down and deposed of elsewhere. I think you may be worrying about nothing, although if you do discover any materials that are unknown, get them dealt with professionally and assume they are higher risk asbestos.

You can get 7N aerated blocks as well. If you really want decent insulation for the soleplate you can use a course of Perinsul Foamglas or similar, but they are pricey.

As per others, low iron glass is what you need. Not too much more expensive but worth it especially when the glass is thick or you can see the edge.

Agreed and you can do this by having the blocks widthways (215mm) every row or every other row. They also sometimes specify double beams. The beam supplier should be able to give you a design.

They often use sole plate anchors which are nailed to the inside of the sole plate and then shot fired into the slab. https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Sole-Plate-Anchor-50mm-SPA50/p/214975

I have voted but the order of the names is different to the order of the images, which could be confusing.

Perhaps you should look at what sale values are in the area and show the plans to some estate agents. If it is worth less than £500,000 you may need to rethink.

A couple of points: I have noticed that grass above a French drain can die off in summer. I have also noticed that Terram membrane is not very free draining and the pores can get clogged with silty clay, making it behave more like polythene.

The cause of the mildew and mould is warmer moist air condensing on the cold surfaces quicker than it evaporates. You may find a dehumidifier could help.

I have done a couple like this using 150mm galv metal tube which looks the same diameter as your 2 photos. Mine have a very slight fall to outside. 100mm diameter is too small imo. If you can, an external fan really cuts down on noise.

Corrosion of the wires would be an issue. Also it is very difficult to achieve a concrete mix and pour and compact to a a satisfactory standard in something so slender. Your bamboo would probably be a better bet with superb strength to weight ratio and good for the member sizes you propose.

I have used acoustic overlay boards called ScreedBoard 28 for a flat conversion. They were a cement type t&g with a soft backing. Worked very well but were very expensive.

Is this it from the other angle?

Just get a quote from Compare the Markets or whoever and check the policy wording. I am confident that you will be covered but it is worth checking.

I have LED strips and they run off a rechargeable Makita 18V battery stepped down to 12V via a buck converter. Lovely and bright.

I once had a firm apply levelling compound on a concrete floor before we got the tilers in and the floor ended up less level after the compound was applied!

I think it may be at worktop height.

Where we are contractors feel entitled to fill your £300 skip with old tools, food, crap from other jobs. I hate them all!!!

6mm is not a lot and I think you will be fine. The castellated panels should take this up. How thick is the screed?

Softer - the mortar should be softer than the brick - more environmentally friendly, better colour / weathers better, traditional / heritage, possibility of reusing bricks. Makes the mix workable. You could use 1:2:9 cement:lime:sand.

The new 30m2 extension will probably have a peak load of less than 1.5kW so unless the boiler is currently struggling it should be fine.

I think these would be fine for a garden wall. Give them a proper clean and encourage whoever is laying them to choose the best side. Use a lime mortar.