Adam E

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  1. Offset quadrant trays are handed so make sure you get the correct one, the vast majority are mix and Match just double check the spec
  2. Depending on your physical fitness,I would consider a plastering Ames taping course even if you don’t master it you will learn enough to tape and fill ready for the plasterers the lecturer use to work with, or when he and his mate come in for a cash job same for wall and floor tiling course gives you good products knowledge adhesive etc and the preparation before you start, then it’s patience and a good eye if you can get a local one man plumber and electrician you can labour to them once you you master one thing it’s amazing how quick you can pick something else up as you are comfortable holding tools etc But remember plaster ,tiles, 2nd fix joinery are all on show so have to be to a good Finnish things like installing the insulation are worth doing yourself as it’s time consuming and you will be more diligent filling all the small gaps installers won’t bother with and allow a hour every night to clean up the mess the professionals left. If if you are supplying all the materials yourself use the skills you have getting prices online a Hour online can pay a tradesman wage for a half day compared to him just picking them up from the local merchants
  3. Home building and renovation magazine have a list every month with all the banks and building societies that lend with their terms stage payments conditions etc
  4. Adam E

    Adam E

    Hi we went for rational triple glazed al clad, we went to the showroom for both rational and nordan, Liz preferred the rational style and colour choice, rational were slightly dearer but that might have been down to the choices we made not sure of price as we got a price for the complete kit we had to go for a raft foundation we had soil investigation carried out and the structural engineer specified raft foundation I asked about the passive types slabs but no one was keen I wish I stood my ground and just got a company with experience in that type of slab the same as Jeremy Harris and others on hear have, but I wasn’t confident enough to argue the point with them, the building trade in general are not keen on anything that is not traditional I am happy with the standard of the scotframe kit, but getting things altered and there communication with our architect was frustrating I would recommend getting them and there in-house teams to design any changes to a standard kit I think it would work out cheaper and probably less hassle, although our architect has been fantastic and would recommend her to any one in our area.
  5. Thanks all, I appreciate your help
  6. I Have concrete slab seems very level but I have put down the membrane and 150mm insulation boards a few boards have a slight rocking no-more than 5-6mm Its a twist in the insulation board as if I swap the board problem solved but I can’t return the boards I am putting down castellated panels for ufh and a dry screed mix, Should I be concerned about the uneven boards ? and if so what’s the best way to fix the problem.
  7. If you Google Selkie board they are very good with a range of unusual designs
  8. Thanks all I think it will be the pert al pert as that would seem to make it a bit easier. Thanks. Adam
  9. Hi i am ordering my ufh through WUNDA using the castellated plates I have a choice of two pipe types PERT/AL/PERT or HDPE- AL – PEX approximately 130sq m with 12 port manifold supplied from 8.5kW ashp on reading all the posts on hear pex al pex would seem to be the preferred option but WUNDA have the choice of these two pipes On the WUNDA site it states HDPE pipe is hard to work with especially with tight bends Will the PERT/AL/PERT be a better choice over HDPE for a first time installer ? meaning me and whoever I can rope in
  10. yes your rough calculations are almost spot on, Anyone any thoughts on the pump requirement ? not sure if I would need a pump set on the manifold or if the supplied pumps with the ASHP and cylinder package would be sufficient ? Mitsubishi Eco dan 8.5Kw with 250lit unvented cylinder
  11. Thanks Dave I will contact them on Monday and hopefully post the pipe layout plan
  12. Thanks Dave its a scotframe 4 star like sips panels tripled glazed with 150mm celotex on floor bungalow and will have mvhr i haven't got a plan that will come when i place the order apparently
  13. Information from wanda I am out of my comfort zone with computers Adam
  14. UFH Any advice, criticism or reassurance welcome I have never had ufh or a ashp so absolutely no idea what the best options are so any advice or help would be appreciated I Got a quote from wanda for my UFH 115m2 it will be running off a 8.5kW ashp so they recommend pipe spacing of 150mm which I will be fitting myself (with a mate or two } stapled on to 150mm insulation, I have 3 prices from them not sure if it’s different pipe or less pipe used at 200mm spacing that makes the difference, just says wandapipe But about £400 between to cheapest and most expensive (not sure if I should post their prices) but this is the email I received . Thank you for providing me with the information to produce this estimate for you for our Underfloor Screed system. There are three different options available to you for your project. The Green system uses 150/200mm pipe centres offering our most efficient and eco-friendly system allowing you to achieve great heating results from the lowest input temperatures. This will save money on running costs and at the same time reduce your carbon footprint. The Amber and Red systems use wider pipe centres and are therefore less efficient and will require higher input temperatures to achieve the same level of heating offered by our Green system and may require supplementary heating It’s our forever house so not so much an issue with price, but is one pipe easier to work with? Pex al pex is widely recommended here but not an option with wanda We don’t like a warm bedroom so I would be happy with 200 250mm spacing in the bedrooms but it would seldom if ever be used, but I like the idea of a warm ensuite would this need a floor sensor under the tiles ? The vaulted area is open plan kitchen dining and living room, and along with the hall,porch and cloakroom will all be set to the same temperature, So do I need so many thermostats? I would like a separate stat for tv room as we will use this most often so maybe a few degrees warmer ? The flooring in all these areas will be Amtico or karndean ( I remember when it was called linoleum ) so will that have a effect on the flow temperature ? Is there any way I can reduce the manifold size to 12 ports as opposed to the 14ports specified as it would take up less room and hopefully make installation a bit easier We will have a ecodan 8.5Kw ashp and 250lit unvented cylinder bought as a package and the cylinder comes complete with pumps I am assuming that is why no pumps are included in the quote ? I am looking for a set and forget system as much as possible with off the shelf components to make future maintenance as straight forward as possible (I suspect some of the members on here are in Mensa where I could join Denser ! ) So I want to keep it simple I hope this makes some sort sense I just want as much information as possible before I pay wanda for the design and material Thanks Adam plan 2.pdf UFH 1.pdf