Mr Punter

The pir in the walls was a good call. Any fall on the roof? Could you do a shallow apex? Do you have proper drainage for the WC? Commendable if you do!

I have done this using two iCON 30 mixed flow fans. They have an iris to prevent backdrafts so you don't get air from the other bathroom.

I have used Finish Architectural a few times and found them to be good.

If it is the whole width of the house I would say it could not be done without a very large downstand which would restrict headroom indoors. Epic steel and supporting structure needed.

The blues are not too bad to clean. I have had some covered in concrete from a floor and they cleaned up OK over a year later.

They are only rooflights and not installed in the side elevations so should be fine. If you cannot overlook neighbouring gardens from them - they look too far up to do so - you will be OK.

As a rule I find a 50:50 split between living areas and bedroom areas works well, so unless there is an integral garage at the front I don't see the point in having the setback 1st floor at the back. The garden room and kitchen will get so hot they will be almost unusable for a fair amount of time. You should design this out now instead of trying to mitigate it after it has been built. As others have mentioned the folding doors can really get in the way.

The new roof and dormers look great. I like the bonnet tiles and the verges look neat. It looks like it was designed with the extra floor rather than just lashed on. Another pic when the scaffold is down would be good.

I can see your thinking. It is a bit awkward having the door swing over the steps but as long as BC are OK with it, you are the only person needing to use it and it is def the simplest.

I know it would take space but I would prefer a quarter landing in the hall and 2 steps. For the door use an external front door with all the correct security as other wise it is a weak point.

I googled the rigid stuff and it is mostly used for highways drainage surface and stormwater.

The connections don't feel too fragile, but I leave a fair bit of slack behind the plasterboard so i could remove and refit a cable if I had to.

I have used these patch panels flush mounted into plasterboard wall: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003SSX1Q6/ You need a punch down tool to fit the cables and you need to cut the plasterboard carefully.

I think the solid stuff is terminated in the punch down patch panels and face plates. It is for the fixed wiring in the walls. The stranded is more flexible and is for patch leads with crimped connectors.

Mine was glued. It has not scratched.

We have LVT in bathrooms and shower rooms. Warmer and more comfortable than tiles, easy to clean and looks excellent.

The costs to distribute the hardcore should be similar as he already had the machine and driver, so it is extra material. Do you know the square area? Ask him for invoices for the hardcore.

I think my stuff is about 6 years old. Sonos are a bunch of crooks and I would never buy their products again. I hope their crappy business fails horribly.

I just got an email from Sonos to say that from May a couple of my products will be classed as "legacy" and I can either "Trade Up" with a 30% discount or get no further support. Apparently when you trade up they brick the old device. Cheeky American rip-off b*******s! Previous hi-fi lasted 25 years.

CT1 is fine as an adhesive / sealant but it is pretty awful as an exposed finish as it is very difficult to tool. You could have it under the render / plasterboard no probs.

No the land is not part of the build cost.

I think they would be good with a splayed reveal internally and externally, covering up at least half the frame.

If you are concerned about acoustics, curtains and sofas help a fair bit. Wood and Luxury Vinyl are preferable to porcelain.

I have fitted a Vent Axia Sentinel Kinetic plus in a house. Simple enough to do but make sure you have decent access for servicing / filter cleaning. It was designed in the loft space but the house is 1 1/2 stories so it is stupidly tight. Doubt the new owners have ever cleaned the filters.

You could use 10mm thick flat bar for the vertical parts. You may even have enough room for stiffening where it joins the box section. You could have galv powder coated steel if the stainless was expensive to fabricate.