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David R

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  1. Iceverge I did this along with several other types of nails to see if I could get the staining happen again. The test piece got a bit busy with most of them showing some staining. I tried again today with another piece of larch now none are showing staining! Confused dot com.
  2. Johnmo I have tried the magnet on some other stainless nails and they are not magnetic. You could be onto something. Timco are sending a courier to pick the nails up so they can investigate the issue.
  3. Thanks for the quick replies folks. The nails are slightly magnetic, when tested with a powerful magnet, from a good bit of googling I understand that this could be possible. Working 300 series stainless can make it slightly magnetic. I am trying to eliminate the gun as the cause, it could be fragments or nozzle marks. I have deeply scratched a test piece of timber with the nozzle and fired other nail types to see it they will mark, still no signs of marking. The stainless steel nails in the test piece have a distinctive tear stain forming, the galvinised nails are showing no marks yet. ( I will upload a photo ) I will drill some holes in the test piece and see it the show any staining in the morning. I know that green larch has a quite high acetic acid content this and a combination of steel fragments, could be the culprit. Surly I cant be the only person to have come across this issue.
  4. Hi Folks, Can anyone help me shed some light on why these marks have appeared on my larch cladding? The marks appeared within a couple of hours, the larch is green and it was raining. The nails are Firmahold 2.8 x 63 stainless collated being fired from a Dewalt 18V nail gun. I might understand if the nails were galvinised, but for the marks to appear so quickly is worrying. Where the timber I used was a not damp from the rain there are no marks. Thanks in advance.
  5. I had looked at the Grant oil / ASHPs and think it is good that the industry recognises that there is a need for them. We have a Grant oil boiler and it has performed really well, if a bit noisy. The idea of fitting an oil boiler outside is appealing. The next step will be getting my head around controlling both the ASHP and oil boiler to get seamless uplift. Could you recommend a thermal store / controls ?
  6. Thanks Nick your thoughts are appreciated, most of the insulation is in already. Taking it back out and cutting boards to fit between the joists, is going to be too much work. Our intention is to use Vinyl flooring. I worry that an overlay system would be able to achieve a flat enough surface, plus the time / cost of fitting it. I take on board what you say about insulation it makes sense. I have been taking care and foaming gaps in the insulation between the joists and could fit rockwool insulation underneath to help with draught-proofing Reading a few educating posts on here on "thermal mass" and don't think I will use that term ever again! If I could start again, I would have of used block and beam construction, with insulation and concrete slab on my sloping site, plus educated myself far more on correct floor build up. I like the idea of a hybrid system. My Ex ships engineer neighbour has a similar stone built property, he has a back boiler in his wood burner, ASHP, PV, Oil and solar thermal, I need to keep up a bit. AliG, Thanks, I have been a bit of a numpty in understanding the PA ratio, it is not "1" it is .35 as I included the internal wall as you alluded to. It is double glazing with a triple glazed roof window. I do not have 80 / 90 mm build up for tiles, this would have been a good solution.
  7. AliG, you comments are really appreciated. they are helping me get my head round the UFH. The floor has 165mm Celotex well fitted between the joists, I am doing it right now, what a pig of a job to do! It would have to be 22mm boards or 20mm insulation as I do not have the build up space for both. I prefer the boards as it would give a more solid floor. The U-Value is around 0.15 or better, with a PA of 1 and according to the architect plans it is 0.15. There is about 50% glass in the extension. The reason for wanting to keep the oil boiler and fit an ASHP is that the older part of the house, which we are living in, could be upgraded with larger radiators etc at a future date, plus the older part is not so well insulated. Also, I do not want to fit an ASHP to find out that my electricity are unmanageable or that it cant cope. I am also fitting a wood burning stove in a lounge area of the old part of the house and perhaps another one in the extension once it has all been signed off. The is in an exposed sight, the winters can be a bit harsh. Any input is appreciated.
  8. Thanks for your responses. Scoobyrex, Thanks, I have spoken to a closer located screed company and they have a similar product to Speedflo and say that screeding on top of boards is not an issue, they said the membrane / tanking system used (plastic sheet ) acts as a slip layer plus the screed would flex. They are sending a rep round next week to have a look at the job. Temp, Thanks, there will be 165mm of insulation between the joists, ( my badly worded initial question ) now you have me worried about thermal bridging and should not fit the boards, but fit a layer of 20mm insulation on top of the joists. I like the system you used, it would save lifting boards in a retro fit.
  9. The joists are on 3400mm span. would there be any flex or do you always get flex in a wooden floor no matter how rigid? My architect has not done this before as far as I can tell. I will look into decoupling mats, I have never heard of them.
  10. Hi Folks, I have a question regarding placing underfloor heating pipes on top of 22mm chipboard flooring. I am building an extension, the original design was to place heat dispersion plates between the 195mm x 50mm joists at 400mm on top of 165mm insulation. We have decided to place pipes in a 50mm pumped screed on top of the joists / chipboard flooring in order to make use of the thermal mass. the extension is around 70 Sqm. Our engineer says the weight is not an issue and we have allowed for the height difference of the screed, by building the block work lower. Does anyone know of any issues with placing the UFH pipes on top of chipboard? Second question, the UFH will be heated with an oil boiler and ASHP. The room will be a living room, kitchen, dinning room open plan. Would it be beneficial to have 2 heating loops as opposed to one? Thanks in advance
  11. ETC. Thank you, tile vents are a good idea, plus a 150mm up stand. The person who put the rafters in ignored the fact that it needed venting. The roof will be getting stripped and a dry ridge system fitted as well. The original roof is a bit rough, loads of birds nests under the tiles, ancient fiber board under the felt and rotting battens. I intend pushing the boat out by using Aultrix 600 vapour barrier. I will be very glad when I have got this build water tight.
  12. Mr Punter thanks for the quick reply. You are correct the insulation ideally would be going on top of the rafters. The design is for a cold roof with the insulation between the rafters. The roof was to be a walk on roof, but plans changed. I could change the roof to a warm roof come to think of it. What I am trying to get my head round is, how do I refit the gutter and vent the cold roof or do I not fit the gutter and allow the existing roof to drain on to the flat roof? Answering my own question, if it was a warm roof with the insulation on top it would not need venting. Good man, I should have asked you earlier, I was loosing sleep over this.
  13. Hi Folks, I have an issue with abutment detail on my cold flat roof where it meets the existing sloping roof. There is not enough height on the wall to allow for a 150 mm upstand. The height above the new flat roof joists to the existing roof tiles is only 120mm max. With 18mm for my OSB and 80mm for firring, it does not leave anything to pay with. Has anyone encountered this issue before? I cant drop the joist height as the ceiling is low enough all ready. There is an issue with ventilation as I need to vent the cold roof where the roofs meet. Would it be possible to re profile the existing roof some how, big firring strips? The truth is I am at a loss how to proceed. Thanks in advance any ideas would be appreciated.
  14. Gus Potter. Gus, Many thanks for your detailed explanation and drawings. I now have a far deeper understanding of the straps intentions and will ask my SE about the impact of timber shrinkage. They have allowed 12 mm for joist shrinkage in height above the steel but nothing for shrinkage horizontally. Apologies for not putting sufficient detail in my original post. Unfortunately, the steel is in place on site, with most of the kit in place. I know what you are saying about joiners being aware of nailing too close to joist edges, the speed of construction on my kit did not allow for a lot of thought time. The joiner missed the straps out but luckily we can retrofit most of them, apart from under one panel on the gable. We had the opportunity to rebuild the panel, and fit the straps, as the joiner built it not on the steel beam but on top of the floor joists. He said that the steel was in the wrong place not his panel and the joists hangers would support the panel and my roof. The kindest thing that was said was by my architect "what an incredible lack of common sense". Not my words when the brickie pointed it out. His company are billing themselves as timber frame specialist, go figure.
  15. SimonD, Mrpunter Thanks for the replies. I had a talk to my architect and he explained it was due to the SE having to issuer the SER certificate and their liability insurance having to cover potential structural issues. He also said that this particular detail is not unusual. He did comment on the change over the last few years from timber beams to over sized steel beams.
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