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Mr Punter

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Everything posted by Mr Punter

  1. I understand that with the Google Nest alarms, they brick at 10 years from manufacture, so no chance of squeezing another few years, just more crap to landfill.
  2. As long as it has BBA and is acceptable to BC and your warranty provider I would go ahead with your groundworkers suggestion.
  3. Just that you may need to abandon part of the foundation and dig as per consent if you don't get you revised approval. If your architect is confident you could just go ahead. If there is drainage / service runs affected it gets more complex. Also, if it is a poured slab it would be tricky to alter.
  4. Cherry picker is a good way to stuff up your driveway. As others have said, correct compaction of base is crucial but is normally just done with a lightweight wacker 2 passes. We have clay blocks which keep their colour really well.
  5. On new build they want main interlinked with battery backup. You can have the interlink wireless if you need to but they still need mains power. Follow the alarm manufacturers instructions re: positioning, but they are correct not to site them in the apex.
  6. You could screw these https://www.forestgarden.co.uk/product/1-8m-x-1-2m-pressure-treated-contemporary-slatted-fence-panel/ to the front, painted if you want. Cheaper from other retailers.
  7. Yes. I used some on a freestanding wall that was prone to getting saturated. It has been very efffective. I also intend to use it on a new build South facing brick flank wall on first and second floors.
  8. In England it is possible to offer to purchase subject to planning or change of use. The deal is binding on the parties, so if you obtain the change of use the seller would be obliged to sell at the agreed price. Probably the same up there.
  9. In the past I have had to use heat resistant glass in some rooflights so it could be used for escape / rescue purposes. Bit of a joke really as the glass failed soon after and was replaced with the standard Velux stuff.
  10. Mr Punter

    Clare

    There is often a presumption against new dwellings in the countryside. What reasons did East Devon planning give you?
  11. Ask them to suggest who that "someone" should be. Tell them that you know nothing about it and are relying on their knowledge, help and advice.
  12. I think this is just for the piling mat, nothing to do with the buildings. This is just temporary works to support the rig, concrete lorries etc. I would bat this back to the piling contractor as the OP is not in a position to take design responsibility for this. You don't want the rig falling over and finding it is down to you.
  13. You will need purge ventilation for the new bedroom. You also need some natural light. If you could remove the section of wall where you currently have the 3 internal windows and extend the bedroom by 1 metre you could incorporate some Velux rooflights. Fire escape will not be an issue as you do not have to travel through another room to get to the front door.
  14. Sheet OSB and ply is often imperial. Most plasterboards are metric. I notice some boards like Glasroc are imperial. Worth checking.
  15. I would use flooring grade T&G chipboard 18mm. The sheets glue together with pva and are 0.6m x 2.4m (1.44m2) Best to lay some thin polythene over the insulation first so it does not abrade.
  16. You will need to support the column from elsewhere and either fit RC padstones or cast them in situ concrete. Normally need to grout the column base as well. The expansion fixings are not suitable.
  17. You may find it easier to dug the drainage out after the slab is cast.
  18. If you are running to a soakaway this must be at least 5 metres from the house. You can connect as many pipes as you like to it, subject to the soakaway capacity.
  19. You may need a new 160mm inspection chamber.
  20. We got ones similar to these, but in chrome. I would certainly recommend them. Aesthetically I think they look very similar to the concealed - you have a handset, riser rail, flexi hose, rainfall shower. The actual valve is minimal in size. If anything goes wrong it is simple to replace part or all.
  21. There was a project in Brighton a few years ago. They did small timber framed houses proper self build. Sea Saw Way it is now called. Walter Segal inspired. Hedgehog Housing Co-op. Kind of good, kind of soap dodgers.
  22. Check they are straight. I have seen some batches really twisted and contorted. Does not seem to matter if C16 or C24, you just sometimes get rubbish.
  23. With timber, 63mm x 38mm cls is really the minimum. 89mm x 38 standard on factory build timber frame internals. 100 x 47 is nice and strong esp doorways. Timber good to fix to but shrinks, twists etc. With metal, the 50mm (48?) I stud is good for a thin independent wall, or the 70mm C stud is what you get everywhere. Metal needs more technique to fix to but is more stable.
  24. Some of the made to measure ones have architrave already fitted on one side and with a slot to accept the stuff on the other. With these, it is best not to have to scribe the architrave to a wall and you are best finding out the width of the arch and making the adjustment on the opening if required.
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