Mr Punter

If these materials are all going into the back garden and you only have 800mm then craning them over the house might be the only way. The crane will be big and need some very solid ground for the outriggers and quite a bit of space. You will need a slinger to offload and a signaller at the back garden with a radio to the crane driver. Get all your heavy materials the same day and all into the garden spread to as near to where they will be used as possible. It will cost a fair bit but then it is done.

You recognise a kindred spirit.

Someone near where I used to live had new and front door windows fitted about 5 years ago in a deco type property. Looked fantastic, with curved glass. Sadly I don't know the supplier. This from Streetview:

Why not change the timber cladding to fibre cement board? Easier to mortgage, insure and sell.

Well that was a long introductory post! Hello and welcome. As the building owner you will pay the surveyors fees for both parties, so it is often best just to keep schtum and suck it up or you may be in for another £2,000. Don't try to get the award re-drafted. Apologise to neighbour and don't work weekends outside.

When contractors go skint it is normally HMRC and suppliers that suffer financially. If they are labour only and you just pay him for work he has done I don't see how you will lose out. He may really like some cash as well that does not need to go to creditors.

Just fill it with more of the piss coloured grout.

The warranties for my customers run from approx the date of exchange, which can be a year or so after practical completion. This is not a retrospective policy. They have done all the inspections and signoffs during the build. I can see that lenders would be concerned if there was no monitoring during the build and all you had done was to pay for a policy. The CML handbook is https://lendershandbook.ukfinance.org.uk/lenders-handbook/

CML have a document that details what is acceptable to which lenders. It is worth checking this if you are about to choose a niche warranty product or professional consultants certificate.

I like the very thin metal cutting ones for metal. The one you have there will be fine for plastic pipe and stone. Safety glasses please!

They are really handy if there are neighbouring buildings and you need an elevation in context. Also for drain inverts, cover levels and setting out points. 180 sounds very cheap

You will need council consent and streetworks ticket / insurance to touch the footway. After you have reduced levels, you should be able to grade in the MOT by eye. Buy it by lorryload. Often highways do not want grave going onto the highway. They want a bound surface for the first bit to stop spreading gravel over the road.

Quite complicated for the 20m2 of space you are gaining. You need a very competent builder for this. Is there no way you could move out for a while? I would leave it to the builder to decide on the wall insulation. It may be best removed then reinstalled. Get it surveyed first. I would be interested to know what prices you get back.

This is going to be a pain. It would be good if SW would extend the main and use if to serve all the houses. The plans only show mains, not connections. SW use another firm to do the planning and carry out the works - it may be Clancy Docwra. If you can get to speak to someone from there who look at the map and give you some proper advice you may make progress.

Probably not if they are inside the blockwork. If they could be exposed to flame they normally have plasterboard, other fire rated board (like Superlux) or intumescent paint.

Could you decouple it or was it the whole thing? Is it lift and slide operation and is it smooth / easy operation?

Agreed I am a developer. Lots of builders do both though.

Yes, expensive round there. 150m detached hits a sweet spot for £ per m2.

Profit 15% = 150k SDLT, fees for sale, SE fees, warranty fees, finance fees, BC fees, architect, QS, interest, valuations legals £80k CIL 25k Utilities £30k Prelims £10k Construction and fitout £300k Contingency 5% £15k Total £610k Purchase £390k

If this is the cavity between the cladding and the structure this is often closed off with timber or rockwool fixed to the structure. The idea is that if a fire takes hold in the cavity it will not find its way into the building via the window or vice versa, which is, I understand, what happened in Grenfell.

Blimey @ashthekid you have done some research there! I think Fakro did 3g / energy efficient stuff earlier on so were specified for energy efficient housing. I have always put in Velux as they are the leading brand.

I have Ipe decking and it is smooth both sides. No slipping. Very dense timber that sinks in water. Extremely durable and also very difficult to burn. I get the impression it is not really eco friendly though.

Normally with bricklaying, but they are simple to fit. Have a look at the reveal before the closers go in to make sure the insulation have been properly fitted.

Please don't get Corian. Stains like a bastard and you can only get the stain out by sanding. Just don't. Silestone / quartz stuff is loads better.

I put in 3g because it sounds better than 2g. Nobody asks about the actual u values or coatings or wall insulation or airtightness but 3g gives buyers the impression of extra thermal efficiency.