Mr Punter

Unscrew one from the door side then try.

I have had them on discharge of conditions applications, where they don't like a material or don't accept a report etc but the rest is OK.

You can def have both UFH and rads quite easily. I think UFH works well on the ground floor. In a new house the upper floors tend to need less heat, and if you have Velux or large glazing it may have a fair amount of solar gain so maybe just rads up there as they are simple to control. When selling, I have found there is no premium for UFH and some buyers can be a bit wary.

Yes, remove it. It is not a waste as all it is doing is taking space where your internal insulation should be. You could of course have external insulation but this may not be aesthetically acceptable on stone walls.

I have created a dam out of mastic around the back and sides of my fridge so if the water / ice springs a leak I will see a puddle at the front, rather than have it track down and along between the engineered oak floor and the T & G chipboard.

I thought that your pipe was everything your side of the meter / pavement stopcock and the rest was the water suppliers. Can you get them to change their bit to MDPE?

Another backbox cut out by the drunken pocket squirrel...

It may be worth trying a timber frame manufacturer as they will get through huge quantities.

You could have 20mm porcelain tiles. 44kg /m2.

Concrete paving slabs on shallow pedestals.

They often recommend Compriband expanding foam tape for the external weather seal. It seems to work well and is widely used. Internally they tend to specify mineral wool or low expansion foam for insulation, plus a tape to seal the frame to the building.

In a lot of firms they employ someone who could be described as the "Shit Deflector".

I prefer resin fixings.

I think they have been forsaken in favour of a home cinema projector. They will only eat popcorn.

That looks hard to avoid unless you are happy with some large feature boxing in the corner.

Duplicated OP

I have built on a river. We needed a full site specific risk flood risk assessment. We did a fair bit of engineering for a new flood wall and piled foundation design. It was brown field so we also had contamination issues.

Is this a trickle vent issue?

The threaded stud is clean and has an excellent key and unlikely to fail due to lack of bond, so I think it may be to do with the resin bonding properly to the substrate, with the anti clockwise action forcing the resin against it rather than pulling it out.

Other than the cost of Stamp Duty, if you could afford to live in the new build while you get your self build underway it could be nicer than living in a caravan.

One other point is that I have seen it recommended that you wind the studs in anti-clockwise, which seemed a bit counter intuitive to me but I guess it is to prevent the resin being dragged up out of the hole.

I have used water from a hose to clean out holes for baseplates on a foundation. It seemed to work well.

I fitted bollard type car charge points to a development, as I realised this would have been very difficult for future owners. There are 14 parking spaces with 7 x 2 gang 32A chargers. So far 2 electric cars plus 1 electric visitor car. I am sure the presence of the chargers acts as a nudge. Passers by all assume we were made to include them to gain planning, which was not the case.

This is why the window people tend to specify low expansion foam, although lots of people carry on with the standard stuff.

You will need to be taking the pipework outside the building as soon as you can, but I don't see a big issue with it running in the insulation. It may be good to wrap it in compressible material so it is properly supported and does not deform.