Mr Punter

We have a lot of chalk around here which is normally easy to dig, drains well, not shrinkable. We just need to be aware of are sink holes and other dissolution features. @saveasteading's gravel sounds good.

Could be different in Scotland. Could you plant some shrubs to form a barrier?

? Page 22 says 600mm.

Although it does look a bit like marzipan. Be fine when the ridge tile is on.

Has the building inspector looked at this? Don't pay anything for what they have done as you will probably be asked to demolish this.

I don't know where in the country you are but I guess between £2,500 and £3,500 per metre plus VAT.

Unscrew one from the door side then try.

I have had them on discharge of conditions applications, where they don't like a material or don't accept a report etc but the rest is OK.

You can def have both UFH and rads quite easily. I think UFH works well on the ground floor. In a new house the upper floors tend to need less heat, and if you have Velux or large glazing it may have a fair amount of solar gain so maybe just rads up there as they are simple to control. When selling, I have found there is no premium for UFH and some buyers can be a bit wary.

Yes, remove it. It is not a waste as all it is doing is taking space where your internal insulation should be. You could of course have external insulation but this may not be aesthetically acceptable on stone walls.

I have created a dam out of mastic around the back and sides of my fridge so if the water / ice springs a leak I will see a puddle at the front, rather than have it track down and along between the engineered oak floor and the T & G chipboard.

I thought that your pipe was everything your side of the meter / pavement stopcock and the rest was the water suppliers. Can you get them to change their bit to MDPE?

Another backbox cut out by the drunken pocket squirrel...

It may be worth trying a timber frame manufacturer as they will get through huge quantities.

You could have 20mm porcelain tiles. 44kg /m2.

Concrete paving slabs on shallow pedestals.

They often recommend Compriband expanding foam tape for the external weather seal. It seems to work well and is widely used. Internally they tend to specify mineral wool or low expansion foam for insulation, plus a tape to seal the frame to the building.

In a lot of firms they employ someone who could be described as the "Shit Deflector".

I prefer resin fixings.

I think they have been forsaken in favour of a home cinema projector. They will only eat popcorn.

That looks hard to avoid unless you are happy with some large feature boxing in the corner.

Duplicated OP

I have built on a river. We needed a full site specific risk flood risk assessment. We did a fair bit of engineering for a new flood wall and piled foundation design. It was brown field so we also had contamination issues.

Is this a trickle vent issue?

The threaded stud is clean and has an excellent key and unlikely to fail due to lack of bond, so I think it may be to do with the resin bonding properly to the substrate, with the anti clockwise action forcing the resin against it rather than pulling it out.