JKami84

@ProDave - were the properties used during your appeal directly behind your house - so the building line of the road. Or where they used from elsewhere in the village as an example? In my town there are a few examples of single storey side extensions breaking a building line, but obviously the road which is adjacent to me has a clear line until a junction and the properties change srtle

Yes, the house two doors down from mine have a huge double storey extension up to their boundary (pavement), however they are on the 'inside' of the cul-de-sac and no building line behind them... Mine wouldn't even go halfway to my boundary. The house opposite my sticks out 2.5m from mine already, but i don't know if thats anything. And also the sun travels from the right, bottom and then left of my google map image. So basically my extension + garage would be north facing to the house to the rear. I do like the thinking about using the garage to break the building line first... How big should a garage be anyway?

This is the reason for my original post - because i obviously need to be tactical in the way I approach this. I thought the same, single storey, then double ... or garage first then extension. I don't want to go to them for them to say NO and then be left with nothing that can be done about it. Unfort nothing else is breaking this building line with houses to rear until the house styles change completely a good 200m + away. Its a busy A road. I can hide the garage completely by trees though - and i still have half the garden reamining so its not even visible on the side road. I could also block the rear house line using trees.. but I am not sure this kind of thing helps?

I have a corner plot in image below. My garden to the side is larger than the width of my house. I would like to consider options including building a new property ... building a double storey side extension (the width of the driveway where you can the MIni cooper parked) ... building a double storey side extension + have a garage aswell (as far as the second fence panel from the house). What ever I do, and however I approach the coucncil - I do not want to shoot myself in the foot as to what can be done. IF I can build a house / bungalow in the side garden then I my aim is to gain an asset. IF i Can't, then I want to make my house a forever home.

Thank you for reassurance its normal. Poor guy must have struggled with the weight of acoustic plasterboard so a couple of 2-3mm gaps isn't a problem. Foam is interesting - and i've seen Acoustic filler foam available.... Worth it?

Hi - I assume these are natural. Most are way smaller , even seamless, than the ones in pic. The ones in picture are 'worst' of them. What is used? Only because I always like to research / pick better product than my builder may use. The plasterboards are acoustic, so would like to maintain highest level of acoustic soundproofing that is achievable. It will be skimmed then painted at the end.

6 x 4 cm laths were used to create the stud wall. I am probably a so way way off from building regs. so much so I'm not going to give myself the headache because i've put 1 stud wall half way in my garage to try create a warmer place to keep my washing machine.

Hi, I partitioned my garage to create a utility space. A stud wall has been put up. Because the stud wall is filled with wiring for light switches and plugs - my builder decided to use isover cavity wall system 36 as oppose to celotex which he has used on external walls. 50mm thickness. He tells me it should make no difference to me... Maybe i'm being pedantic but The lamba value of this is 0.036 as oppose to celotex which is 0.022... at 50mm, makes the R 1.38 rather than 2.27. The stud wall had to be this thickness max as its fitted between windows and electric meters, etc. at the edges However, the majority of stud wall can be thicker if I wanted it to be. So I am wondering that if I were to dab on further celotex on the garage side (non-visible), like 50mm, or 75mm... would this make a difference to keeping more warmth in the utility section. I can't go to edges of the stud wall.

Well... i've said I want them, even if difference is mininal, it will always be psychological to me. Problem is he was just unloading 10 standard ones as I said it. I didn't know he'd be getting them this early. I feel bad! Anyway, he seems to have agreed but seems annoyed - he says acoustic ones are only available in 6 x 4, not the bigger size of normal . So was questioning his battening. but then realised he could lay them sideways. I guess he was just thinking outloud, but not too impressed with me. LOL. I get embarrassed easy!

Yea. Well its going to be jam packed with insulation as far as can reach over neighbours ceiling. So there is nothing I can do to stop that right now. Unless we put a different product on the area that sits on top of the 9 inch wall such as below? But only if this stuff would differ to normal insulation roll being used in ceiling? https://www.wickes.co.uk/Knauf-Earthwool-Acoustic-Sound-Insulation-Roll-50mm-15-6m2/p/143388# or https://www.wickes.co.uk/Rockwool-Sound-Insulation-Slab---100-x-400mm-x-1-2m/p/148842 I hate that stuff that usually has good thermal properties seem to have poorer acoustic properties and vice versa 🤣

just to add - I am seperated to neighbours by 9inch wall - they are insulated on their side as they already converted their garage. However our ceilings are straight through (after top of 9 inch wall) with joists straight through... but heavily insulated and plasterboarded in our own respective garages. That is probably the bigger concern for noise.

My builder is putting me off using / spending any money on acoustic plasterboard - saying he has them and they make 0 difference. My sums say I need 60 sq meters (including ceilings). and the difference is from about £170ish for normal to £300 for accoustic. £130 extra which I'd be happy to pay for an 'attempt' at reducing noise. Maybe its pychological - if noise becomes an issue and I don't spend the extra, I'll always think "damn I could have spent 130 extra". Similarly, if I spend it and noise is an issue at least I know i tried something not too costly to try and make a difference.

@PeterW could you give me a product for fireproofing? Would 50mm FR board be sufficient? I know it will be a cold room. We are just sectioning some off for utility. I am just making it as cosey as I can (not spend thousands) but just spend money on what is worthwhile. DPM, 6mm fibreboard and 12mm laminate on the floor. Again just for comfort on the foot. It's a utility part of the garage that's all.

@Iceverge thank you for an informative response. Yes it is a 225mm solid brick wall and they have 50mm celotex and standard plasterboard on their side. You talk of airgaps - well our ceiling is down and above the wall is hollow across neighbours garage roof (see image). They've packed their habitable part of their garage ceiling with insulation and we will pack with insulation too. I could buy a different "upgraded" insulating rockwool product to "stuff" above the 225mm brick wall section that separates us? And use the normal insulation on rest of the ceiling. Do you think that would make any acoustic difference? As to dot and dab. How much space does that take? Because if dot and dab takes about 15-20mm and then so does your 32.5mm product you showed me, then I may aswell continue with what's been started with 40mm battening with 25mm celotex (I am also going to Ask why he cant get 30mm celotex in this space? E.g. he has 40mm of space from the wall to play with right.). I know I am being pedantic here. .. but All I want is the best return on losing some width. If acoustic plasterboard alone would make no difference as you say. Then I may aswell do nothing. But if I do insulate then I may aswell use acoustic plasterboard anyway for minor price difference.

I have a garage which I am sectioning to make some of it into a utility. One wall adjoins neighbours garage which i am thinking of options without losing hardly any width... Neighbours have already done a "conversion" on part of their garage that covers half of the wall i will use for utility, and this entails them using 50mm celotex on their side of the 9 inch wall that seperates us. My builder (who also did our neighbours) says I really don't need to insulate, because neighbours already have. However, now we notice their insulation only covers half of my utility space I am wondering if its worth doing something at least on my side - and this could also potentially include a 12.5mm acoustic plasterboard to be used just to help incase the lads want to have a drink in this space from time to time, because it will be a nice space. I told builder to go ahead and put 25mm celotex. I thought this meant 25mm celotex + 12.5mm plasterboard (which I'd upgrade to acoustic)... and thought thats 37.5mm, and great. However... I got this wron. He has used 6x4cm battons. these sit 4cm from the wall, or 4.5cm in some parts, and the plasterboard would be on top. Now its looking like losing nearly 6cm of width from my room that I wasn't prepared to do. All he has done so far is batton the wall. I am thinking of next steps... Is this 4cm the right amount to put 25mm of celotex? Is there a thinner way to do this? When i questionned it, he said even if he did a "dot and dab" technique, that it would be thick (I assume he means adhesive) and it would still come out a similar amount. If I was to skip 25mm celotex but still wanted a 12.5mm acoustic plasterboard, I now imagine this would also not be 12.5mm total space because of need of adhesive or can they not just be drilled into the brick wall? I'm not overly concerned with insulation, i just thought something would give me peace of mind. I would like to use 12.5mm acoustic plasterboard though if possible. Other option is to do nothing. I just don't want regrets. My questions are, what is thinnest way to have some insulation with a plasterboard so it doesnt take up 6cm And is there a way to just have a plasterboard to only use up the 12.5mm thickness that they are.