Hobbiniho

probably very similar to this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u89ggzjowqg so not exactly shipping container quality more B&Q garden shed made to look like a shipping container and using the "container" name to disquise the fact its a flimsy metal shed

if i was a betting man i would say that frame is (6x2) 138x38mm CLS with a 140mm insulation, which is the most used size up here usually with 50mm PIR on the inside and timber cladding on the outside

the problem you have is that you have several kite steps that are housed in the newel aswell as the risers the combination of the 2 provide the structure, the steel to replace it would need to have brackets to hold the ends of the kites/ risers so would be quite bulky, the other option you have of you dont want newel posts is to have a semi helical stairs

As part of your ongoing obligations you have to tell them if your heating system stops working, theres also a clause about the days of occupancy aswell, im pretty sure the demolition of the property the heating system is in will cause a stop to payments I recently had a request for some "missing" documentation from 2 years ago along with the standard threat of "we will stop your payments if you dont privide us with this documentation", they were applogetic when i forwarded them the email chain with the correct info from 2 years ago when i made the application

you can get gangnail plates and hand twist nails, to replace the pressed plates as fitted in the factory, as said consult a structural engineer as generally the hand nailed gangnail plate will need to be bigger than the pressed plate

i would say given the relatively small size of the concrete pad, complete removal of the concrete shoudnt be too much hassle, you can then move the insulation to the correct size and fit new rebar and concrete, cutting the slab down and putting insulation in will still leave you with the insulation sticking out too far which will result in it being hacked off with a rusty old saw to get the flashing fitted.... and you will still have the problem of rebar not having the required coverage

I think your mad, as the tiles have a pattern 1 broken sliver means the whole tile is scrap. If it was me i would just venetian plaster it ??

well of course he thinks its ok, he doesnt have to live with it if it leaks and if he agreed it wasnt correct he needs to fix it at his cost, which wont only be labour costs to remove the whole roof and redo properly but also material cost for all the tiles he has cut wrong/ velux removed and flashings done correctly what needs to happen is the whole roof needs to move over left or right by 1/4 of a tile this would give you 2.75 tiles between windows, on photo 4 on the left hand side velux it looks like he has cut the tile around the corner of the velux with his teeth, im not even going to mention the state of the lead as a few other posters have already said the standard of workmanship is very poor and im sure the excuse that he will give is "iv always done it like that and had no complaints"

you are missing rearo https://rearo.co.uk/bathroom-range also howdens sell "wetwall" panels along with buildbase, jewsons etc although im not exactly sure who actually manufactures them.

it really depends on how many nails he used to fit the plywood sheething, if he didnt use loads you may be able to move it, i have in the past used a big ratchet strap to "move" timber frames but that relies on there being something large and solid enough to attach the end to, if you do use this method you will want to pull it past the plumb as it will spring back

what type of fibre cement tiles are you using? and how thick are they? iv fitted many roofs with Eternit Thrutone Slate and just used a heavy duty metal scribe to scribe them and then snapped them. then used a bosch multi construction bit to drill holes.

Just had a look on that website, seems interesting comparing regions, although i do wonder what the figures would be like here in shetland

as said a photo would really help im struggling to understand what you have currently, if the current door is draughty then thats the biggest problem, you could have the best insulated door in the world but if theres a draught coming past it its pretty useless, i presume you are just wanting to replace the door and use the existing frame?, depending on how it is constructed it should be possible to replace the door and fit new door stops with storm seals and a new weather bar to create a better seal. do you have any local window/door manufacturers or small independant joinery business? i would recomend the one local to me but im pretty sure they would be more expensive than the one that you have linked

I have just finished building one for my dad, its the 12mx4m one, just waiting on some topsoil to get delivered then we will get the raised beds filled

normally the floor joists would extend all the way out and the wooden "kit" wall would sit on top of the timber joists, what you have drawn has a massive cold bridge and is overly complicated, is it possible to lower the outside ground level to well below the joist level to maintain the DPC.

polysulphide sealent as it stays flexible

I have fitted cupa heavy 3's quite a lot and they are very good and reasonably priced

I have the panasonic air rads and find they work quite well, although i wouldnt want them in a bedroom due to the fan noise, worth noting that they have a minimum flow temp of 30degrees in heating mode, as has been said they are expensive for what they are. i was also looking at dimplex smartrads but decided to stick with the panasonic to match my heatpump

What are these water tanks for? and why the flat roof? i have never seen a partially flat roof attic truss before, you will have difficulty fitting noggins at all the points shown due to the fact that there will be metal plates on all the joins it will be difficult to nail through these and will be difficult to fit the noggings tight as the metal plates sit a few mm proud of the surface, it might be easier to ask if the design can be changed slightly, rather than having noggings it would be easier to fit thick sarking and have 3x2 or 4x2 "brandering" on the inside, this could go at 400 centres and would give a better fixing for plasterboard.

just had a look and the setting out guide thay have is pretty crap really https://www.wienerberger.co.uk/content/dam/wienerberger/united-kingdom/marketing/documents-magazines/technical/UK_MKT_DOC_TEC_ROF_SAN_Install_Guide_Rivius_en_001.pdf the setting out guide says you need a 38-50mm overhand at the verge. it also says that you have a 3-4mm "shunt" availiable which is about normal for interlocking tiles but as i said if you havent carefully designed the roof from the start to work with the gauge of the tiles you are going to struggle and all you can do is shunt the tiles as close together as possible and live with the overhang or cut the tiles at the ends, as i suspect you wont want to completely rebuild a wall and make your garage 40mm wider... was this garage designed from the beginning to have these tiles? and if so did you angage an architect/ architectural technician to do drawings for you, it is quite a big omission as you generally need to design these roof systems from the outside in especially if they are a small length. i also suspect that if you carry on with the larger overhang and have problems with the tiles/verge sagging or cracking the manufacturer will state that they have not been fitted according to the guide and will reject any claim

first question is what make are the tiles?. as prodave said you should be able to gain or lose a couple of mm per tile, but this all hinges on the roof size being designed from the outset to have these tiles, if you have built the roof to an artbitrary size and are now only trying to work out the overhangs you are going to have problems as it doesnt look like a big area. if they are your standard marley/redland/benders concrete linterlocking tile they are generally multiples of 300mm plus what ever size the cloak tiles are at either end and half tiles are usually availiable but can and often do have a slight colour variation so can look unsightly best bet would be to look up the setting out guide for the make of tiles you have

Yeh the panasonic tank is just to add volume to the system to stop the heat pump short cycling, you will need an expansion tank on your heating system as you dont currently have one shown. This expansion tank usually also has the fill loop connection aswell so will be connected to the "cold" side. You also have your cold water feed to the house shown wrong, the balanced cold for the house should come off the bottom of the "black PRV" and not be connected to the tank feed

If you hold them in one corner and tap them with a knuckle and they sound really flat and dull they may have a crack, best way to test is to "gently" knock it on your knee and see if it breaks last thing you want to do is fit slates with cracks that may not be visiable

i bought an access panel from these guys https://www.el-vent.com/en/ventilation-systems/access-panels-doors-hatches was a large plasterboard flush mount, not exactly what you are looking for but they have a large selection of different type of hatches, delivery was incredibly quick considering its coming from lithuania

@Reetster that plan makes a lot more sense now, as has been suggested rockwool would work ok as would PIR probably the deciding factor would be what type of insulation you are using in your frame? im presuming PIR as you say it meets building regs, the different types of insulation have an effect on decrement delay but you also need to think about the positioning of them as to respect of the vapour permeability of them and also where your vapour control layer is going (usually as close to the inside as possible)