Hobbiniho

im presuming that your 150mm frame is timber? is this going to be filled with insulation?, it seems quite unusual to have an air gap and then a completely seperate 4x2 frame just to hold the cladding up, you will have to be careful and detail this properly as you might run into interstetial condensation problems, there are quite a few people who have used woodfibre but this is usually fixed directly to the structural frame then either rendered or has battens and cladding creating a drained and ventilated cavity, do you have an closer up photos of the cross section of what you have?

Sounds like you need to adjust the keeper slightly, should be able to slacken the screws and move it slightly. Also worth checking thatbthe frame hasnt twisted slightly

They might just give you a complete new connection, if its leaking at the "tar ball" and thats on the live side then it it their responsibility, would probably be easier for them to cut and cap that connection, all depending on how deep the trunk main is, would be good to get a brand new toby/ water meter and get them to put it in a slightly better location. I almost had a complete new connection from scottish water but the trunk main ended up being under my neighbours driveway so i have a 3ft section of old 3/4 pipe that they connected to the new toby

Interesting point regarding the DHW usage, i suppose mine is relatively low as i am a single man so will use not a lot of hot water, redoing the figures takes my consumption down from 42.8KWh/m2/year to 39.9KWh/m2/year and generation from 89.6KWh/m2/year to 81.7KWh/m2/year For the argument about MVHR i always understood it to be more about having a basically net 0 gain/loss in heat its heat recovery not heat addition, normal extractors dump hot air outside and replace it with cold through trickle vents, MVHR uses outgoing air to heat the incoming air to inside temperature. People that i speak to that have MVHR say they are amazed at the air quality and overall "freshness" and lack of condensation.

Ok i will play, 85m2 house built in ~1880 half refurbished, not exactly loads of insulation and far from airtight, ASHP feeding radiators/ fan rads 255L UVC, consumption is 42.8KWh/m2/year, generation is 89.6KWh/m2/year. The figures are higher than they should be, because for the first ~ 4 months of the year the hot water was being heated to 55 and the ASHP was in weather comp mode, i have since changed the hot water to 48 and set a direct temp of 38 from the heat pump i maintain the rooms at 20 degrees, planning to refurb the back extension next year which will sort out most of the poor/ missing insulation and draughts

What he said ? UK-Global-Catches-2020-10-08.pdf

A lot of the guys up here use takeuchi mini and midi diggers and regard them highly, also worth noting that you may be able to get a slightly bigger midi digger (5t) for the same price or cheaper as they arent towable bit if space is a problem that might limit you

I agree with your builder, it is telling him to apply 18mm plywood that will then receive interior finishing, i.e use a nice plywood not sheathing ply, it is also a bit strange that the type of ply is not mentioned there are many different varieties of 18mm ply availiable. The spec could have had more detail,how do you expect him to quote for an interior finish if you havent specified what it is you want? As has been said you could have wanted a really expensive finish or a really cheap coat of white emulsion

This is an interesting question and the simple answer is yes it can be done but it wont be quick or cheap..., one of the guys at my work is just about completed his build of his "telletubby house" https://pa.shetland.gov.uk/online-applications/applicationDetails.do?activeTab=documents&keyVal=MPD0EJOA11000 http://<iframe src="https://www.facebook.com/plugins/post.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2FCASEShetland%2Fposts%2F3373615469425082&width=500" width="500" height="846" style="border:none;overflow:hidden" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="true" allow="autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; picture-in-picture; web-share"></iframe> http://<iframe src="https://www.facebook.com/plugins/post.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2FCASEShetland%2Fposts%2F3373618452758117&width=500" width="500" height="846" style="border:none;overflow:hidden" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="true" allow="autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; picture-in-picture; web-share"></iframe>

i think the short term solution would be to try setting the thermostats down by 3-4 degrees and see if it still overshoots which would be the correct temp for you, as has been said the slab will still emit heat for long after the heating has clicked off, and as you have a well insulated house the temperature just keeps increasing not sure if a "smart" control system would be able to compensate for this better as your control system is incredibly simple, also 38 degrees is relatively high for UFH that is the temperature i run my radiators at there could also be problems with your mixing valve/actuators etc as prodave has elluded to

https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/17216-magnetic-latches/?tab=comments#comment-278205

I had a ASHP installed in my house replacing storage heaters. my house is 85m2 and i have a 7kw panasonic heatpump feeding 2 air rads downstairs (living room, kitchen) and conventional rads upstairs (3 bedroom's) and in the lean too extension at the back ( utility, master bedroom*) these conventional rads are controlled by TRV'S. My system was designed by someone who has a lot of experience in doing so, i provided him with the information he required to work out the heat loss, this included plans showing the size of rooms as well as the wall make up, floor make up roof make up and what insulation installed as well as size of windows and size of double glazing as well as how "draughty" i felt the house was, i also inputed all the info into jsharris spreadsheet and the figures that i got were almost exactly what the same as he had come up with. I had the option of going for a complex "smart" control system with different zones etc but decided that as downstairs was open plan that it was pretty much pointless it was decided that a simple cheap "clicky" rotart thermostat at the top of the stairs was all that was needed to control the heat downstairs, with the TRV'S taking care of the bedrooms, in hindsight this would have been better being downstairs somewhere as there is about a 1.5degree difference between what the thermostat says and the downstairs temp, i originally had the heatpump set in "weather compensating" mode but found that it was coming on hard and fast which effected the COP i changed this to "direct" at 38degrees and it seems to work well. I think that as has been said there is no one fits all aproach and every house is different and everyones level of comfort is different and the way everyone expects the heating to function is different, i personally heat my house to 18/19 degrees and my heating system copes fine, it may not be able to cope with someone who likes there house heated to 28 degrees, but this should be factored in at the design stage, if you have an old house that you are retro fitting with an ASHP you really need a well thought out system that is designed by someone who has the necessary experience.

Yeh thats clean, clean doesnt mean they wash it it means that it is that size of rock with no fines in with it, it all pretty much looks a regular size

Also sometimes called "sand mastic" or "trowel mastic" it is used where there is a "large" variation in the height, it stays flexible and can be "trowled" into place

This is my wetwall panel, it is from howdens i used "H" joints to join the panels onto plasterboard so there is not a step

My first thought was why would you want your house to look like a multistoreycar park ? my second though was, where are they going to put the insulation ?

Also what you have drawn in the second drawing showing the air tight layer is often called a " tony tray"

Up here in shetland the "standard" timber frame would be similar to your build up except without the rockwool in the cavity, keep the cavity clear. However i would put a layer of 50mm PIR on the inside of the studs this can double up as the airtight later and you can put a 25mm layer in the ingoes in to the windows

Generally the biggest reason for using painted timber over things like marley cedral is simply the cost element, marley cedral is ~40-50% more expensive than cheap shiplap. If it was me i would be using marley cedral as i hate painting but that isnt the question the OP asked

The only paint that i would use externally is valtti opaque, up here it is the most common paint for external cladding and is availiable in basically any colour you could imagine, it is incredibly hard wearing, it is kinda expensive at about £160 for 10L but lasts ages.

as has been said dont add anything on top of the slates you will cause more problems, it looks like some of the slates have already been removed to allow the last bodge to be applied then they have been "pushed" back up under the second row as you can see they are not straight and the headlap is all over the place, i would suspect that these slates would be quite easy to remove

i wouldnt be using "guesses and estimates" when it comes to RHI payments my EPC went from "44 E" to a "67 D" simply by changing from storage heaters/immersion DHW to an ASHP with radiators and fan rads.

yeh agreed, valley rafter is in completely the wrong place, you have 2 options move the valley rafter into the correct place for the 2 different pitches you have, or completely reframe the dormer, you appear to have enough room to do this why did you pick 32 deg for the dormer?, you also wont get your valley tiles to work unless you completely reframe the dormer to have the same pitch as the main roof

You said that you turned the outside one all the way to the right to turn it off, external stopcocks are usually only a quarter turn to turn off are you sure you didnt accidently turn it back on again, got a photo of the external stopcock?

Most plumbers up here use mapress fittings and have done for quite a while, one of my mates was using mapress ~10 years ago on a commercial job that i helpes out on and i thought it was a pretty good system ?