Hobbiniho

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About Hobbiniho

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  1. i take it you ae going for plasterboard ingoes at the top and sides? the biggest problem with MDF is that you will have to fill and sand the end as it will show, i have gone for oak, but my skirtings, facings and doors are all oak so it makes sence, i think all white would be too much but thats personal prefference, why not go for a contrast rather than rying to match the windows
  2. if your doors rattle when closed that isnt the door design, that is poor workmanship by the guy that fitted them, all too often i see guys just drill a hole where the latch goes rather than cut a sloped cut, also when fitting door stops the door should touch top and bottom and have a little bit of a "spring" (and i do mean a tiny bit) to be able to latch, this keeps the door from rattling, admittedly it takes a little bit longer but the finished job is so much better
  3. i have just had a panasonic system installed and have a controller that looks similar to this, it seems relatively easy to use although i have an old school rotary thermostat that does the call for heat. i am still at a stage where my system needs balanced and the plumber needs to change some settings, it is possible to have up to 6 heating programs and it looks quite simple to input the settings for that
  4. I have just about completed a partial refurb of my house which has taken 1 year of me working in my time off work i work a 2on 3off rota so plenty of time, i have a ~1880 concrete "croft" house i have stripped out the livingroom/ kitchen, bathroom and utility room, i have fitted new insulation to the walls downstairs (75mm PIR) and built new walls not touched the floor its partial suspended timber and partial solid concrete, the house has had a complete rewire (at mates rates) and i have replumbed it completely myself, i have had an ASHP installed at a cost of £10k as its an MCS install, new kitchen was £7.3k, spent about £1500 on bathroom stuff about £1200 on new external waste pipes and new water main (they were all in the wrong place) I think my total will be about 30k and that is with me doing all the labour myself as i am a time served joiner i was able to call in lots of favours from tradesmen friends as well as using my mates trade accounts at the local builders merchants , which has saved me £££. Personally if you are going to do a refurb you either go full on and start with bare walls or save your money and just do the bare minimum to make it habitable. I am really mad with myself that i didnt just bite the bullet and redo the floor, i could have had UFH instead of the fan assisted rads but im happy enough with what i have
  5. you only need a small gap ~10mm to get a strap boss in providing you have a straight bit of pipe to connect it onto
  6. i had scottish water replace my toby which effectively gave me a new connection, the local boys were really good, i had phoned and asked them to come and locate my toby and turn off the water so i could reroute my pipe into a different part of the house, when they turned up they struggled to locate the toby so had to follow my pipe back from the house eventually finding out that the toby was burried under my neighbours driveway, they connected a new toby to the live pipe and left me with a nice trench to the house to route my new pipe in all at no cost to me, i had black plastic not lead I think you should be fine with getting a new connection especlially with lead, all the better if you can have your pipe to the agreed toby point, the boys will more than likely connect it up for you, i wouldnt think he would care too much about your pipe its more a case of the toby location as the toby is the responsibility of scottish water
  7. in picture 1 there are 2 grooves in the door are these as deep as the grove in the door in picture 2? that is a groove for a seal which you appear to be missing, is there anything on the bottom of the doors? also the seal on your cover plate appears to be falling off, i presume it is just a crappy self adhesive one? anything fitted to the hinge side? as ideally there should be a seal on the door as well there are seals available in a variety of sizes and shapes and only with measuring the gap between the door can you pick the right one the most typical type is called a timber flipper seal
  8. depends on what sor of finish you want but i have used sovereign k10 quite a lot, mainly for temporary repairs but have used it in quite a few places where there is an weird shape thats a small area, i have also used it on large areas on top of old roofing felt and a couple of places for the complete (small) roofs https://www.sovchem.co.uk/flexi-acryclic-k10
  9. nordan were the normal fit up here for quite a while. how long have you had them fitted? i dont know if nordan have changed the design of the alu cladding but i have seen quite a few nordan alu clad windows where the alu is corroding at the joints where it has been cut, they are however in exposed coastal areas
  10. yeh should be no problem, just get a heater and dehumidifier in as soon as its wind and water tight and you shouldnt have any problems
  11. you could send stu gray an email, he is the panasonic dealer for the north of scotland and the islands "info@heatorkney.com" he would let you know how expensive they are, although i think they are ~£500 each so not exactly cheap
  12. i presume you have come across the panasonic aquarea air rads and filed them in the "too expensive and complicated" group, i have them fitted although using them for heating, they are a lot more aesthetically pleasing then what i was thinking they would be, although they arent running yet
  13. you say that the roof has already been fitted? how do you propose to get the SIP sections into place? i presume the plan is to make the timber kit on site within the building so they can just be stood up in place? you cant do that with SIPS
  14. i am particularly intrigued as to how they think you can get a wind turbine for £1500 , on my EPC it shows the indicative cost of a wind turbine as 15-25k which is more realistic if a bit low, but it doesnt factor into account the large amount of land that you need to site the thing in the first place
  15. ASHP is permitted development class 6H in scotland as long as it meets certain criteria, the most important being the MCS sound calculations https://www.gov.scot/publications/guidance-householder-permitted-development-rights-9781780456836/pages/8/