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Hobbiniho's Achievements

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  1. i have built/worked on several houses where the client hasnt had the money right away to complete the upstairs, they have fitted attic trusses but just left it bare, the key thing is to construct the structure it as if you are going to finish it and just fit infill panels where the windows are going to go and clad/roof over them, this means that when the time comes that you can afford it you simply just cut out the infill panel and fit the windows and there will be no structural alterations, the area where the stairs goes usually just becomes a very large cupboard until the time to convert
  2. surely the solution is to remove the paint and tile the aquapanel. although you will likely have to replace the aquapanel. The aquapanel is up to the job and as it is a tile backer board buying it and expecting to not tile it is a bit misguided, did you supply and fit the aquapanel or did the stove fitter do it? what warranty did the fitter give you and are any of his recommendations in writing??
  3. yeh those type of nail pullers will pull out twist nails easily, if they are hammered through and bent over i would first cut off the bent over bit with a grinder with a slitting disk, and then give the nail a good smashing from the back, this will break the "seal" that the nail has, always funny trying to explain to people the best way to remove an old nail is to hammer it in first ??
  4. when you say timber packers, what size of packers are you talking about? as if its just small thin bits of wood then a powder nail gun such as the hilti dx 460 or the spit suggested above will not work as it will just split the wood into a million little shards, i wouldnt use them to nail anything less than a 3x2 or you risk splitting it and the fixing not really holding, the self tapping screws suggested above would be another good option if you only have a few of them to do but go with a decent brand like hilti
  5. depends if you are going to be fitting the BDX insulation collar or not as the collar needs more room to install
  6. What is typical up here is for a 25x25mm batten to be fitted to the inside of the kit (at the outside) the window then sits on this and you can put 25mm PIR on the reveals and tape them to the internal PIR/ window to complete your airtight barrier, this relies on the window openings being made big enough though, your frame is already up so i think you will struggle to fit insulation in the reveals as there will not be enough room around the window
  7. its dielectric grease, grease thats safe for electrics/electronics, means it wont go hard and brittle and will allow movement while also staying sealed, the sparkies at work use it a lot to keep water out of JB'S/ connections, only down side is the mess it makes although in a tube like that maybe wont be too bad
  8. i presume the flitch beams are above a large opening?? some pictures or drawings would give an idea of the work involved, you say that you have paid a structural engineer to specify these beams but surely these would have already been designed before the structure was put up?? or was it a case of the guys doing the work just were called bodgit and scarper ltd and didnt have any drawings/ structural calcs to begin with?
  9. I have panasonic air radiators in my open plan living room/ kitchen and you can just hear the rads but it just fades into the background noise, the noise of the fridge/ dishwasher is louder
  10. most have a plastic "frame" that you screw to the door then "clip" it onto the dishwasher and fit screws through the door to hold it, all integrated dish washers will be expected to fit most off the shelf kitchens. for example this is the fitting instructions for a lamona dishwasher https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1479391/Lamona-Lam8303.html?page=8#manual
  11. probably very similar to this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u89ggzjowqg so not exactly shipping container quality more B&Q garden shed made to look like a shipping container and using the "container" name to disquise the fact its a flimsy metal shed
  12. if i was a betting man i would say that frame is (6x2) 138x38mm CLS with a 140mm insulation, which is the most used size up here usually with 50mm PIR on the inside and timber cladding on the outside
  13. the problem you have is that you have several kite steps that are housed in the newel aswell as the risers the combination of the 2 provide the structure, the steel to replace it would need to have brackets to hold the ends of the kites/ risers so would be quite bulky, the other option you have of you dont want newel posts is to have a semi helical stairs
  14. As part of your ongoing obligations you have to tell them if your heating system stops working, theres also a clause about the days of occupancy aswell, im pretty sure the demolition of the property the heating system is in will cause a stop to payments I recently had a request for some "missing" documentation from 2 years ago along with the standard threat of "we will stop your payments if you dont privide us with this documentation", they were applogetic when i forwarded them the email chain with the correct info from 2 years ago when i made the application
  15. you can get gangnail plates and hand twist nails, to replace the pressed plates as fitted in the factory, as said consult a structural engineer as generally the hand nailed gangnail plate will need to be bigger than the pressed plate
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