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About Hobbiniho

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  1. In the instillation guide for the concrete canvas it says "prepare the surface so it is well compacted, geotechnically stable and has a smooth and uniform surface" you say that it may collapse so it is not geotechnically stable, this stuff is for providing a quick cost effective protective top layer for streams, rivers etc it is not for shoring excevations, there are strict guidelines for working in trenches, if you cannot bench the excevation due to space constraints then you need propper shoring as your diagram shows.
  2. what i would do is go to a electrical wholesaler and purchase a roll of 2.5mm flex and a wireable RCD plug and extension socket, this way you can make it as long as you want
  3. it absolutely will not cover the cost of the loan, using the RHI calculator and inputting the data that @Bornagain has provided would give less than £1000 payment over 7 years, without having the exact figures from the EPC its a bit of a guess When i installed an ASHP my energy demand went from 21000KWh/year to 16000KWh/year due to the change from storage heater to ASHP the only change to the house was the heating system, the water heating demand actually went up as the old setup had a very very small DHW tank and i installed a 255l despite only having 1 bathroom
  4. no you are quite right, i wouldnt expect the actual width of the trench to be within 10mm but the centre should be within 10mm, it really isnt hard to use string lines to set out a foundation any "tradesman" that cannot set it out to within those tolerences is either not competent or simple doesnt give a toss, i will say that i have only ever worked with timber frame so if you get the block underbuilding out by 10mm your timber frame wont fit the hardest site that i have had to shutter and pour strip foundations onto was at about a 40 degree angle which made it difficult but not impossible, a concrete pour that is more than 10mm out on level isnt really acceptable in my opinion however this may be fine if working with brick/block or have a lot of underbuilding to take make up the difference, dont forget that if you make a good job of the foudations it makes everything else easier as you arent chasing mistakes and trying to fix them on subsequent build stages
  5. In the times that i have laid foundations anything more than 10mm out i would have got a slap, there was 1 job i was working on where i managed to lay the blinding 15mm too high and the site manager had a right go at me, the solution was to remake the shuttering smaller. There really is no excuse for having any measurements out by more than 10mm when doing foundation work, not sure what is acceptable with brick/block as iv never worked with it but with timber frame if you are out by more than 5mm you either need new glasses or a new tape measure
  6. we are starting to run out of ullage space at work and there is a shortage of tankers, it will be really close whether or not a tanker can be found before we run out of ullage, there is a serious glut of oil around the world and such a low demand for oil that lots of tankers are sitting full
  7. wow im suprised that you passed with that, up here that wouldnt pass as it is so obviously temporary,im also suprised with the lack of handrail aswell, i have built so many access ramps that the homeowner said that they would rip out as soon as they were moved in but still had to build them to look like they are meant to be permanent, there is also some people who build concrete ones with concrete that is only a couple of inches thick so they are easier to remove after completion
  8. Most people up here use gtec smartmix xtra, usually tape/fill and paint happens before second fix, i find it strange that you are fitting radiators before the decorating
  9. i personally think they look a bit rubbish, most modern bathrooms that i have seen in the last 10 years or so have had back to wall toilets with hidden cisterns and the basins have been on top of a unit, all of which hide the pipework, how often are you planning to remove your toilet?? for me it is relatively easy to isolate my whole water supply to disconnect the bathroom and blank it off should i need to
  10. Its been a nice day here 4 degrees or -1 with the windchill factored in
  11. just had a look at octopus and for me they are 0.95p/KWh, £11/annum standing charge more expensive than bulb who i am currently with the difference for me would be about £8/month, and thats using the new slightly dearer rate that bulb have just changed to at the beginning of april
  12. one of the builders merchants here (jewsons) stores CLS outside on racks and the other (buildbase) stores it in an old shed so is generally dryish, i think it depends on what you are doing, if you are building a kit that is going to be exposed to the weather for a while when you are getting it wind and water tight there is little point in buying dry wood, although wet wood is a pain to work with as it is harder to make marks on and you get wet cutting/ moving it
  13. the company that i started my apprenticeship with, who were NHBC registered built the internal stud walls after the frame was up and to wind and water tight, the only internal walls that were built at the same time as the external kit were load bearing walls, i dont know anyone who builds internal partitions before the roof/ second floor, generally the stud walls are fitted after the internal walls are insulated and plasterboarded
  14. Nah in in brae, my ASHP is only set up to deliver max temp at -15 if i was using the temp compensation which im not, are you sure the +-5 isnt a hysterisis setting not a set point? I have the ability to completely change both the Y axis and X axis points on my curve, but if you are actually having problems that the ASHP is saying its giving a flow temp and not actually reaching it then you have a problem, dont forget the outside of the pipe wont be the same temp as the flow, although you shouldnt really need to run at the max temp, that says the system has been specced wrong ASHP work best at low flow temperatures, constantly driving them at 50 degree flow temp will make your COP very poor and cost you more money to heat your house
  15. My ASHP (panasonic) will only get to 50 degrees flow rate when it is -15 outside as is has a temperature compensation curve, the fact you say it only gets to 44 at just below 0 degrees seems about right to me, how are you actually measuring the flow temp at the various places? Do you have an external pump or are you relying on the integral pump in the ASHP I have recently changed the control of my pump from temp compensation curve to fixed output temperature as it seemed to be running really hard and hot 45degrees for shorter periods of time, i have changed it to 33degrees output to see if i can get my COP back to a decent figure