Hobbiniho

If the heat loss for the room is 678w its 678w whether you heat it with a coal fire or a nuclear reactor, im not sure where you are getting the 3:1 calculation from Where the heat pump has to be factored in is with the lower flow temperature most radiators have the quoted output with a deltaT of 50 degrees so a flow temp of 70 degrees for a room temp of 20 with an ASHP you want a flow temp of 30-35 for most efficient running so you need a radiator (emitter) that has an output of 678w with a delta T of 10 degrees

Either your insulation level is average or your bedroom is massive to get a single radiator to output 2.7kw with low temperature ASHP flow temp it will have to be massive (what size rad are they quoting for that output?), the benefit of air rads is the fan that moves the air around the room

hmm i am trying to remember back to my doing my HNC and the site surveying module i am pretty sure that it has to do with the amount (length and elevation) of hose is only good to level between two points if any of the points move you need to establish a new "level" so can only do 1 "leg" at a time depending on what you are planning on doing yourself on the build you could invest in a dumpy level you can get a cheap one for about £150 plenty accurate enough for most things as long as you set up a few good solid benchmarks

Ahhh i have just checked my one (redring from howdens) and i have a deffinate flow from the tundish aswell, my feeling is that it is a safety feature as i would not like boiling water coming out the tap at mains cold pressure as that could be pretty dangerous

I usually use vermiculite to fill in chimneys, just block up the bottom fill with vermiculite and cap with 2inch of plaster in the top of the chimney pot. The bonus of doing this is that it is easy to put the chimney back into use if you so wish

Nothing stopping you doing it, although i would rather make a kit in a shed where its warm and dry then erect on site. Also nothing stopping you framing a roof but beware that it will need to be properly detailed and the timbers will be bigger than an trussed roof with pressed connecting plates. The other thing to think about is that paslode nails are generally not good enough to make the kit, kits are usually nailed together with 3.9x100mm twists not paslode nails

as has been said the figure of £6.9k for a near passive house sounds completely wrong, i am due to receive my first RHI payment in a couple of weeks but my house is old, with not much insulation, none in the floors, and has an energy requirement of 269 kWh/m2/year, i am due to be getting £295.54 per 1/4 which is a total of £8.3k

looks great i always think that a wooden box or die straight render on the side of an old house looks horrible, good on you for sticking to getting it to match

as has been said you need to decide what you absolutely want, and try to keep the triangle, with the sides roughly the same size, do you want a breakfast bar? i had a slightly bigger size to work with and came up with this design it is by no means perfect but works quite well, as has been said i can lift stuff out the oven and just set it down without walking far kitchen-pack.pdf

I had a ashp system retrofitted into my 80m2 3 bed house it cost 10k because i used an mcs approved installer, it is a 7kw panasonic minoblock with a 255l Dhw cylinder with a combination of normal radiators and panasonic air rads i also got a 10k interest free loan from home energy scotland aswell as getting RHI payments which will basically cover the cost of the system if i done my system Diy i probably could have done it for 5-6k but would not get the loan or the RHI payments

would be interested where you got that info from, if its true somebody would need to tell the 12 boats that landed a little over 12000kg of cod today in shetland, not that it would bother me as haddock is far nicer anyway

its this one, although i got it in a bath, shower screen, shower combo so worked out slightly cheaper https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/milan-square-thermostatic-bar-shower-valve-riser-kit-chrome

RHI was a massive incentive for me,during a refurb i have removed the storage heaters and the THTC and replaced it with a 7kw panasonic ASHP system wth radiators, coupled to the fact that i got a £10k interest free loan (im in scotland) and the projected payments of £300 per 1/4 or £8400 over the 7 years means that my heating system has cost me £1600, my house is far from passive but the system is well specced and manages to keep the house warm even in horrible weather like right now the wind is 34kt gusting to 46kt and its raining i am still curently waiting for progress on my RHI application, although that is mostly my fault as i have had to produce more documents that have taken me a while to sort out. The loan in my opinion is not a loan as you still have to have the funds to install the system then claim the money back, in my case i had to pay roughly half the total after first fix install and delivery of the heatpump/ DHW cylinder, fan rads etc i then had to complete plasterboarding, taping and filling/ painting before the second fix and commissioning could take place, only after the system was commissioned an MCS certificate was produced. I then had to have the EPC redone to reflect the changes. before submitting my loan claim form by which time i had paid the plumber the remainder of the balance. i don think it is reasonable to expect a tradesman to wait for payment for so long.

you say the intention was always to multipanel the enclosure so you must have thought about the gap at the top?? what i would be doing is fitting a 1300 tray, battening out 1 wall then fitting the panels with a straight joint at the top with a 300mm bit of plasterboard at the top, you will have to fill in this gap with something whether the wall as strapped out 50mm or the multipanel is just stuck straight onto the plaster, these photos show what it looks like to have the plasterboard and multipanel flush with each other

the biggest problem that i can see is the fact that the glazing beads are completely wrong, there should not be a mitre in the bottom corners, that detail forces water into the corner and into the joints the bottom bead needs to also be wider and have a drip detail as currently all the water that hits the top window will run down the glass and straingt into the gap at the top of the bottom window

i take it you ae going for plasterboard ingoes at the top and sides? the biggest problem with MDF is that you will have to fill and sand the end as it will show, i have gone for oak, but my skirtings, facings and doors are all oak so it makes sence, i think all white would be too much but thats personal prefference, why not go for a contrast rather than rying to match the windows

if your doors rattle when closed that isnt the door design, that is poor workmanship by the guy that fitted them, all too often i see guys just drill a hole where the latch goes rather than cut a sloped cut, also when fitting door stops the door should touch top and bottom and have a little bit of a "spring" (and i do mean a tiny bit) to be able to latch, this keeps the door from rattling, admittedly it takes a little bit longer but the finished job is so much better

i have just had a panasonic system installed and have a controller that looks similar to this, it seems relatively easy to use although i have an old school rotary thermostat that does the call for heat. i am still at a stage where my system needs balanced and the plumber needs to change some settings, it is possible to have up to 6 heating programs and it looks quite simple to input the settings for that

I have just about completed a partial refurb of my house which has taken 1 year of me working in my time off work i work a 2on 3off rota so plenty of time, i have a ~1880 concrete "croft" house i have stripped out the livingroom/ kitchen, bathroom and utility room, i have fitted new insulation to the walls downstairs (75mm PIR) and built new walls not touched the floor its partial suspended timber and partial solid concrete, the house has had a complete rewire (at mates rates) and i have replumbed it completely myself, i have had an ASHP installed at a cost of £10k as its an MCS install, new kitchen was £7.3k, spent about £1500 on bathroom stuff about £1200 on new external waste pipes and new water main (they were all in the wrong place) I think my total will be about 30k and that is with me doing all the labour myself as i am a time served joiner i was able to call in lots of favours from tradesmen friends as well as using my mates trade accounts at the local builders merchants , which has saved me £££. Personally if you are going to do a refurb you either go full on and start with bare walls or save your money and just do the bare minimum to make it habitable. I am really mad with myself that i didnt just bite the bullet and redo the floor, i could have had UFH instead of the fan assisted rads but im happy enough with what i have

you only need a small gap ~10mm to get a strap boss in providing you have a straight bit of pipe to connect it onto

i had scottish water replace my toby which effectively gave me a new connection, the local boys were really good, i had phoned and asked them to come and locate my toby and turn off the water so i could reroute my pipe into a different part of the house, when they turned up they struggled to locate the toby so had to follow my pipe back from the house eventually finding out that the toby was burried under my neighbours driveway, they connected a new toby to the live pipe and left me with a nice trench to the house to route my new pipe in all at no cost to me, i had black plastic not lead I think you should be fine with getting a new connection especlially with lead, all the better if you can have your pipe to the agreed toby point, the boys will more than likely connect it up for you, i wouldnt think he would care too much about your pipe its more a case of the toby location as the toby is the responsibility of scottish water

in picture 1 there are 2 grooves in the door are these as deep as the grove in the door in picture 2? that is a groove for a seal which you appear to be missing, is there anything on the bottom of the doors? also the seal on your cover plate appears to be falling off, i presume it is just a crappy self adhesive one? anything fitted to the hinge side? as ideally there should be a seal on the door as well there are seals available in a variety of sizes and shapes and only with measuring the gap between the door can you pick the right one the most typical type is called a timber flipper seal

depends on what sor of finish you want but i have used sovereign k10 quite a lot, mainly for temporary repairs but have used it in quite a few places where there is an weird shape thats a small area, i have also used it on large areas on top of old roofing felt and a couple of places for the complete (small) roofs https://www.sovchem.co.uk/flexi-acryclic-k10

nordan were the normal fit up here for quite a while. how long have you had them fitted? i dont know if nordan have changed the design of the alu cladding but i have seen quite a few nordan alu clad windows where the alu is corroding at the joints where it has been cut, they are however in exposed coastal areas

yeh should be no problem, just get a heater and dehumidifier in as soon as its wind and water tight and you shouldnt have any problems