Hobbiniho

wow im suprised that you passed with that, up here that wouldnt pass as it is so obviously temporary,im also suprised with the lack of handrail aswell, i have built so many access ramps that the homeowner said that they would rip out as soon as they were moved in but still had to build them to look like they are meant to be permanent, there is also some people who build concrete ones with concrete that is only a couple of inches thick so they are easier to remove after completion

Most people up here use gtec smartmix xtra, usually tape/fill and paint happens before second fix, i find it strange that you are fitting radiators before the decorating

i personally think they look a bit rubbish, most modern bathrooms that i have seen in the last 10 years or so have had back to wall toilets with hidden cisterns and the basins have been on top of a unit, all of which hide the pipework, how often are you planning to remove your toilet?? for me it is relatively easy to isolate my whole water supply to disconnect the bathroom and blank it off should i need to

Its been a nice day here 4 degrees or -1 with the windchill factored in

just had a look at octopus and for me they are 0.95p/KWh, £11/annum standing charge more expensive than bulb who i am currently with the difference for me would be about £8/month, and thats using the new slightly dearer rate that bulb have just changed to at the beginning of april

one of the builders merchants here (jewsons) stores CLS outside on racks and the other (buildbase) stores it in an old shed so is generally dryish, i think it depends on what you are doing, if you are building a kit that is going to be exposed to the weather for a while when you are getting it wind and water tight there is little point in buying dry wood, although wet wood is a pain to work with as it is harder to make marks on and you get wet cutting/ moving it

the company that i started my apprenticeship with, who were NHBC registered built the internal stud walls after the frame was up and to wind and water tight, the only internal walls that were built at the same time as the external kit were load bearing walls, i dont know anyone who builds internal partitions before the roof/ second floor, generally the stud walls are fitted after the internal walls are insulated and plasterboarded

Nah in in brae, my ASHP is only set up to deliver max temp at -15 if i was using the temp compensation which im not, are you sure the +-5 isnt a hysterisis setting not a set point? I have the ability to completely change both the Y axis and X axis points on my curve, but if you are actually having problems that the ASHP is saying its giving a flow temp and not actually reaching it then you have a problem, dont forget the outside of the pipe wont be the same temp as the flow, although you shouldnt really need to run at the max temp, that says the system has been specced wrong ASHP work best at low flow temperatures, constantly driving them at 50 degree flow temp will make your COP very poor and cost you more money to heat your house

My ASHP (panasonic) will only get to 50 degrees flow rate when it is -15 outside as is has a temperature compensation curve, the fact you say it only gets to 44 at just below 0 degrees seems about right to me, how are you actually measuring the flow temp at the various places? Do you have an external pump or are you relying on the integral pump in the ASHP I have recently changed the control of my pump from temp compensation curve to fixed output temperature as it seemed to be running really hard and hot 45degrees for shorter periods of time, i have changed it to 33degrees output to see if i can get my COP back to a decent figure

it is a drain cock although i have never seen one with 2 inlets before

i would go 80x125 this means the gap between the edge of the block and the edge of architrave is 5mm and edge of skirting and edge of block is 5mm, as you would want the architrave centred on the block or it will look wrong

yeh as said they are called skirting blocks, usually just made from solid wood to whatever size required, what profile is your skirting? as it is possible to get fancy designs etc but these are usually MDF for painting, if you have a fancy profile like ogee or lambstongue etc then it may be worth considering corner blocks aswell, this will make fitting the skirtings a lot easier. i personally used osmo oil on all my finishings (solid oak) and nailed them on the plus side about finishing them first is it is very easy to remove any excess filler from the nail holes

Hence why they said there is no insulation, even when there is, this increases the heat demand therefor increasing the amount of RHI payment they would get. @zoothorn have you uses @Jeremy Harris spreadsheet to calculate your heat demand as this will give you a good indication what size ASHP you need . An ASHP will work with radiators, they just need to be sized correctly, i have a combination of normal panel rads and low temperature rads (fan convectors), i have panasonic aquarea air rads to go with my panasonic ASHP but there are others such as the dimplex smartrad, mitsubishi ilife2 slim. my house is 80m2 and 1870's concrete, although i do have a small amount of insulation, and my heating system works perfectly fine

im in brae so im more northerly, if you use foil faced "kingspan" then you just have to add tape to the timber frame, but you will need to make sure it is fully taped everywhere, its a while since iv been in the trade so not sure what the most up to date method is

hmm good question @MMeNDtal where are you? i would agree with what has been said 100mm frame filled with "kingspan", vapour barrier, service void then plasterboard. also on the coom celing make sure there is a vent gap at the sarking to allow ventilation behind the new wall, will probably need vents put in the roof near the peak, will need some carefull detailing to make sure downstairs doesnt have a howling gale coming in

Not sure if it has been said before but the window in that last photo, does not appear to be framed properly the cripple at the RHS of the window should go to the floor, there is also no lintel. Have you had this inspected by building control?

The unlimited sim is £34 a month so double the price really im averaging about 120gb a month most unlimited sims have a 1tb/ month fair allowance

i have a Huawei b525 with a smarty (3) sim and a poynting xpol1 external aerial, although the external aerial isnt actually mounted externally yet as i havent got that far yet something that i found without the external aerial was that even slight movements made a difference to the signal strength. i am lookign at changing to an EE sim as i dont get a brilliant signal with the smarty sim but for £18.75/ month for an unlimited sim that is on a 1 month rolling contract i am not sure if i want to sign up for a full 12 month contract with EE although i know for a fact that the EE signal will be many multiples better

the standard paint to use up here is valtti opaque https://www.tikkurila.co.uk/decorative_paints/products/valtti_opaque it is a very good paint and lasts a long time

i used to do a lot of disabled access shower conversions for the local authority and we fitted mainly mira sport electric showers, think they were ~9.5kw, really easy to fit and look pretty good for what is a reasonably priced shower

yeh you need a post instillation EPC done and before you claim the rhi you have to make a decleration that you havent altered anything, also worth considering that even if you made no changes to the fabric of the building simply changing the heating from oil to ASHP the "space heating kWh as 13,640" will reduce as ASHP is more efficient than oil so you dont need the same amount of energy in to provide your heating requirements, i went from storage heaters/ immersion to ASHP and my figure dropped from 18,992 to 13,819 for an 80m2 property, with no fabric changes, so your alterations to the fabric coupled to the ASHP being more efficient could make the RHI payment relativey small

This is the assessment that needs to be done for permitted development https://mcscertified.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/MCS-020.pdf

If you have a recent EPC then you can do the calculation yourself https://www.gov.uk/renewable-heat-incentive-calculator Dont forget that the total KWH required to provide DHW and space heating will reduce after the ASHP is installed, and you need to get a post instillation EPC completed

Have you actually been on the rhi website and used the payment calculator yourself? Rather than just listen to the salesman? I hope you havent gone for metering for payment? Or is it the performamce metering you have gone for?

Yeh just figured it out, i thought @Bozza was meaning he needed 2.7kw output at low flow temp ? means that the fan rads posted will be perfectly adequate although not sure i would want one in a bedroom ?