Nickfromwales

I would not have a shelf in direct waterfall / constantly splashed over TBH. That's a water trap and you'd struggle to stop water getting under the tile. If I was doing that for an insistent customer ( ) I'd put a solid sill ( cill ? how DO you spell that ? ) like granite / Corian sobit can be sealed back to the vertical faces and it could be angled slightly 'downhill' so the water didn't sit there. "Recipe" "Disaster" ?

Just remember NOT to put ballifix valves before this. Instead you need to use 1/4 full bore valves so as not to restrict the flow .

Like it. You should put that in as your profile signature. ? Guilty

Don't start him off now please. ?

Exactly what YouTube was created for ??

You've lost me ?

Yea, when I saw your kitchen ( and commented ) I clicked my stopwatch. Sounds like your branch should speak to the clowns this side of the bridge as it was 3 kitchens on the same wagon, in the wrong order. The other two kitchens must have been firewood after the delivery monkeys finished with the unloading and re- loading. These were 2 of the 5 damaged units. I think this was done when they unloaded and just smacked them down on the pavement. I would say around 60% of it came damaged.

Breakdown please? ?

You can buy these which go onto the end of the 16mm pipe and straight onto a regular rad valve. They are rated to go directly into a compression 15mm bend / elbow but would do this task just as easily. Most trvs have a very short pipe entry, and they may not be compatible, so best to buy one of everything, those adaptirs, a TRV, and a locksheild valve and make it up to see if all's well. You could PTFE these onto regular angled rad valves and then fit the adaptors onto that to take the pex back horizontally but then will you be able to form a bend to drop vertically ? You could drop a fitting by using these and take the 16mm + adaptor straight to the valve horizontally. Bit pricey though. The last time I did this I did as @PeterW suggests and ran short, neat bits of 15mm copper, bent ( double sets ) back to the skirting boards and converted under the floor at each valve. If your using room stats to control actuators on the manifold, then DO NOT fit trvs. . Edit : nowt wrong with dropping to a 15mm manifold and 15mm Hepworth pipe

Fixed wiring terminates at the fused spur anyway, so it matters not one jot what is connected, as long as it's safe. For a new rewire I'd be less than happy, unless, as stated above, it's been by prior approval between yourself and the sparky and you were made aware of the compromise before it was undertaken. As you have stated its the majority of the floors lighting that's affected, I'd ask immediately for it to be rectified without charge. It's not acceptable IMO, and I'd be just ok if it was a partial rewire. Get it changed and get the amendment notified in the certification. .

And another plumber meets his untimely demise ? "Damn you, pushfit !!!!"

No idea, just a random internet image grab. TBH, the supplier @IanR linked to is reasonabke and has the different sizes needed.

Wouldn't some sort of Z bar plastic / alu profile be better fir this purpose? How big a shadow gap? Hey-up........

2 weeks. Effective immediately ☠️

One week ban each. ?

B&Q of all places seem to be ok, but prob cheaper if you can fin somewhere online as usual. At least with B&Q you can see the stuff and get a feel for it. +1 on ball raced rollers and solid tracks. Nylon / PVC is the devil.

People......if you have to do more than my suggestion, sack the chuffing plasterer. ??

Very good stuff. You'll have no problems with that one ?

Gutted. I tried sooooo hard. You wait, it'll be everywhere by the end of 2018

@Onoff I bought these for the last job. One went vertically mounted in the shower, selecting rose or handset, and one horizontally over the bath selecting overflow filler and pull out handset. Excellent flow rates and cheaper than shoplifting. Tres bien. Flow to the relative outlet at each end and temp dial in the middle. Get the round ones or your OCD will take up the rest of your life getting them realigned after each use

Pre insert a screw as shown with the point just hidden Sit the wedge against the floor, push it against the skirting until your snug, then send the screw home. Don't let it go right through the floor in case of pipes or cables.

He means grout ?

I don't think your pushing the tool in fully and keeping it there whilst de-mounting the fitting. Partially losing pressure on the tool will close the fitting enough to grab the insert.

I think that's the best option. ?

No more cider for you ?