Nickfromwales
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Everything posted by Nickfromwales
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Bingo. ??
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Sorry @TerryE, I replied on my iPhone but never pressed 'post'....I'm a wally. I meant to ask for a pic of what you have so I can advise, but @Temp has posted a good solution if it means it's the only option left. I never make a compression fitting off onto plastic tbh, but if it's the only real solution then you've not much choice. Pic please ! .
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No need for dedicated runs because the hut ( lol ) is small enough not to worry. 15mm pipework throughout will suffice, with everything teed off as and when to suit. .
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My heads so cooked after the last week I can't even tie my shoelaces. ? Good luck, I'll just copy the most popular answers. ??
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I suggested 120l because oil likes a long full burn, so the boiler combustion chamber, baffles and other intervals all get up to temp and it burns clean. You could feed the rads off the buffer TBH, and may be the better solution. I'd recommend feeding them via a pump and TMV so you can cap the max surface temp of the rads, as even direct off the boiler they'd probably be uncomfortablly hot and overshoot the room stat set point.
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Yup. And the boys pee like the ghostbusters zap ghosts. "Never cross the streams!"
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Forgot about that option TBH.
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Zone under the bath
Nickfromwales replied to PeterW's topic in Regulations, Training & Qualifications
Put it in an IP enclosure. Think of a Jacuzzi bath with the gear underneath. -
Screed/concrete/dry/wet?
Nickfromwales replied to curlewhouse's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
If you use Ardex A35 instead of cement you can lay ceramic tiles in 4 hours, FACT. Just used it and it's outstanding. Only ballache is £35+vat per 25kg bag and you need a pan mixer to mix it. Do not try and use a turn and fall ( regular ) cement mixer. Can you wait ? If so, just pour a nice wet concrete and tamp it with a timber T bar and leave it 5-10mm shy of where you want it. Finish with leveller or plenty of tile adhesive. FWIW, tiling with a green slab can be done in less than a week if you put down a Ditra mat decoupling membrane ? -
Hi and welcome @lewis A few will be along to comment shortly. . In the meantime, tell us a bit about where your building and the journey so far please You can post a brief in our "introduce yourself" section, add as much detail as you like. ?
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I'd shoot anyone plumbing in the entire UVC on flexis TBH, but you NEED rigid pipework for the control group anyhoo plus rigid for the D1/D2 so you wouldn't be saving much imo.
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Take D2 into a Hotun waterless trap and then to ground. Ditch the tundish but keep all the pipework in copper.
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Why not run a pipe up to the attic space above ( iirc your only part-vaulted ? ) and put the EV up there? You need to allow your plumber to answer the final fitting questions TBH, ( G3 regs will apply even though your not getting a BR certificate if you want a warranty ) but iirc D1 can have a bend horizontally before dropping to the tundish as long as you can get 2-300mm of vertical D1 pipework before the tundish ( to take the swirl out of the flowing water ) as otherwise it goes everywhere except into the ( open sided ) tundish. You then also ( iirc ) need a minimum of 400mm vertical dropping D2 leaving the tundish before the next horizontal / invert. The control group does indeed need to be within 500mm of the UVC.
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In that case I'd live with the seat resting on the flush plate and replace if / when they get damaged. If you don't 'lean back' then the problem is minimised.
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Yup. All the ones I've seen are now either fixed or have a double o-ring seal plus the compression nut, so the nut only holds the pipe up rather than create the force needed to make the seal.
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They don't back onto a wardrobe / other in the adjacent room by any chance ?
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There is a Geberit frame that fits into ac100mm stud frame, which is ~90mm deep.
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Heed these words well as the seat hitting the flush plate has generated many an angry customer. .
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Hi Amanda, and welcome. You sound like you'd be a valuable addition to the crowd here so please stick around . If you wish you can request blog rights ( they have to be granted by one of our admins, @PeterW, @recoveringacademic or @TerryE ) and log your adventures there . You could read @JSHarris's blog as that has some great info about dealing with solar gains, from a continuously recirculating UFH system, through to tried and tested reflective window films etc. Searching this forum and its predecessor Ebuild will see chat continued here from the latter, with a wealth of warts n all reviews derived from selecting, installing, and living with such system, and their associated disciplines, which is priceless. Search, ask, and enjoy!
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I always wondered about where the water goes after rain hits the slab and goes down between the slab and DPM, which is essentially a pond liner. I just assume the DPM will likely have a tear in it or water would weep out of any overlapping joints ?
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If you can easily get the UFH loops to terminate at the buffer then keep it all together, but if it's far easier to remotely mount the manifold then do so, plus even though you'll get losses off the additional connective pipework when the heating is running it'll be adventitious loss. Run the rads off the boiler by all means but make sure there is a 22mm gate valve across the flow and return of the rad feeds ( AFTER the 2-port valve ) so you can introduce a little bypass. Essential with an oil boiler as it wont modulate and would suffer when the house is up to temp and the thermostatic rad valves are only partially open or closed. Getting the house up to temp is a doddle, it's how to manage things when it's up to temp and idling is the real PITA.
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Screws are pennies, blast them in ! Filling, sanding and redecorating costs significantly more my friends.
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A very quick way to raise it without getting grey hairs. Just make sure it's 100% fully bedded in tile adhesive to get the heat through.
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+1
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Mobile signals frustrated by house wall insulation
Nickfromwales replied to Auchlossen's topic in Boffin's Corner
A bit more
