Nickfromwales

Are all the non TRV valves all deffo fully open one side, and balanced as per my previous on the other side? Im a bit stumped tbh, this should be working just fine. .

Is that a hand towel or a bath towel? Take me now Lord.

They'll be 2-way IMO, but look on the body ( chrome bit ) for the bent arrow symbol. If the 22mm pipe is only getting warm for 5-6' after the boiler then it stinks of airlock. Is that with the rads nearest the boiler turned off on the TRV ? Turn rads 1,2,4&6 off on the TRV's and tell me what happens.

Not necessarily 'wrong', but if you can live on the change that's left over, I d'oth my cap....and the world salutes you sir. ?

First thing to clarify is if the TRVs have an arrow on the body, it should be double headed. That means the TRV is bi-directional, so the polarity of flow and return matters not one Jot. If they are used / old TRVs then yes, double check. Can you clarify ? ( not from the pub obviously ? )

Jesus. If we're against you AND the better half, now could be a good time to shut BH. ?

I'll scratch my noggin.

Cool. Sounds like there is a way of controlling the air rad and the primary pump as a couple. The UFH will simply draw what it wants when it wants, when the 2-port is open. The hammer may well stop just by removing the primary pump force ( by teeing the UFH below it ) so I guess I'd start there. The issue is cost for the plumbers time if it also requires the ZV moving as I suggested. A second visit may not be economical so maybe do both out of diligence whilst he's there and it's drained down. From my experience, of fitting regular ZV's in the flow not the return, the only hammer I've ever had issue with has been duff actuators 'bouncing' a couple of times as they close, which created a loud water hammer sound. I simply think it's a) the wrong valve b) in the wrong place c) and the UFH doesn't need the primary pump force as it's doubling the velocity and fighting the ZV.

How far away from the boiler is roasting ?

Let's see how that goes then.

You trying the above now ? I'll stay "on the line" if so.

Does the air rad blow into unheated spaces or the the mvhr? Sorry if you've answered elsewhere but theses a lot of folk on here now

Well there's how to control the primary pump then ? Does this need to be on often ? Is the UFH not 'cutting it'? Have you considered slightly raising the input temp to the UFH ? One degree can make a significant change.

You on site now?

Got it. For some reason the pics weren't showing. Now they are I think it's down to balancing. Ok. Do the dopy checks first. Close all the wheelhead valves fully and count the number of turns from open to closed. Open the ones nearest the boiler to 30%, midway ones to 60% and furthest away to 100% open. Next. All trvs closed except the furthest away. Next. Switch it on and see if those rads heat up. If they / it does then leave for 5 mins to push any air out to the AAV's, then go to the next furthest away and open that trv. Repeat until all hot. Leave to run for 30 mins and bleed all rads again. Have you checked the aav above the pump ( inside the boiler ) is open / working?

Pipe or pipes ?

I need to see how the rads are piped. The pics are too far away and I can't see the detail. Do flow and return pass under each radiator? Eg left pipe off one 15mm and the right pipe off the other 15mm so flow AND return to each rad?

Yup. Good thing to remember, that things can be used for obscurity .

Yes. Nowt wrong with them. When it's grouted up you'll wonder what the fuss was about. . The cuts under the window will soon mellow too, but that's about as thin as you'll want. You cant really do anything about that as it'll screw you for the bath if you do, and that's not what I'd do.

Yup. ?

@Alphonsox Point conceded over the return coming off the third connection, just I've never seen that done. If Wunda do it that way then it's ok with me. Well you'd better go grab a stiff drink, because you've got one lol. Your repurposed UVC is filling the boots of a buffer / T/S, just its not designed to be there as your not using it for a 'mono-function' such as simply providing DHW. Jeremy's was an open pipe type instead of sealed like your cylinder, so suffered much higher losses. Where a purposefully chosen ( by design ) buffer / T/S would be better, would be where it had 2x tappings for the air rad flow and return, and then another 2 tappings for the UFH flow and return. As they're always at differing flow potentials, ( static for the air rad and dynamic for the UFH ), the two should never meet, let alone be teed together with a pump thrown in to further upset the balance. Changing the position of the UFH T will solve this as far as we can with this equipment. As for the constant circulation feature for the UFH loops, moving the UFH ZV as proposed, so it's correctly in the flow not the return, will still allow the UFH loops to circulate 24/7, just connect the room stat for heating to the ZV and connect the manifold pump to a timer, set accordingly ( timed / constant ). Pointless going to a 5-wire, but I'd drop the non generic wax ZV you have and instead fit a typical heating / DHW 2-port ZV ( like this ) which will open and close without the hammer. I still don't get the air rad. If it doesn't call for heat, why does it have a stat ? What does the stat do?

Nope. The pump for the air rad would cause cross circulation. UFH always needs isolating unless it's the only thing direct off the heat source, and thats only if it's an instant heater. A storage heater ( cylinder ) would still need a ZV to stop convection circulation occurring.

Relevant here too TBH, as it's down to costs / returns and why we arrive at such decisions here My point being that if they're only staying for 10 years and are in their 30's then let's face facts, they'll not want spend their budget on the next occupants. If it increases the value then it's game on though.

I think a few slaps across the face may be in order. ? The fact is that nobody makes tiles to fit your bathroom. Get over it and you'll soon see that cuts are normal. On the window wall simply bring the two tiles in the centre together, then cut the mosaics out of the tiles. That'll give the illusion of continuity with the grout lines and give you bigger rips on the right hand side. You've just got too much going on in one room to be this particular, so compromise at least a little or you'll never get it tiled. Oh, and putting extra vertical strips of mosaic in instead of smaller cuts of tile will look ? I promise you. ??

If it's your money to spend then yes. Im certainly not going to future proof the house I'm in for the next occupier. I'll do a cost vs return analysis and spend what will cover me for my time in it, and not a penny more. We have a government that's supposed to be investing in our planets future, rather than well minded folk blowing what spare cash they have in this lifetime, to keep their children, and their children in a healthy world. I don't mind helping out, but it's not for my wallet to perpetuate it surely ?