Nickfromwales

The latter. Looks much better and if tall enough you can put a glass divider to double the shelf space.

It was beyond tight, and the washing machine was a total barsteward to level as it had to be taken in and out to get it level. D/W should be easy as the rear leg drops from the front panel.

I quite like the two pockets set out like this. Just raise them up, where they are, 2 tiles higher, then make them one course taller and bingo afaic. ?

Is that a wren kitchen ? I've just done one identical to that with the chrome verticals and the chrome fingergap for handleless doors. Getting the washer / drier under the base unit chrome strip leaves VERY little wiggle room.

Same as mine. ? You've passed the test. Tis a tad heavy, but cutting 6" skirting standing up makes life so much easier. Troughing / rebating guide is super handy too. Now, something about insulation, for balance .............. I didn't know you had to like insulation to choose it If it's better at keeping the heat in, would that not be a deciding factor ?

How did you get on with the vac? The last one I saw had a hose about a half mile long and the outlets were less than reliable. A pita to store and get in / out, compared to just buying a good quality cordless vac for each floor for eg.

Plenty good enough for 2 holes

Same as drilling a composite kitchen sink tbh. Buy a diamond tile hole cutter, just a cheapy on off eBay, and use a hand operated spray bottle to keep the bit soaking wet whilst drilling. Make a plywood template first with a hole the same size, and that'll keep the drill bit central whilst drilling ( as the tile hole cutters don't have a pilot bit ). Have a mate hold the template whilst you start drilling, and when the hole cutter is about 2-3mm in, withdraw it very slowly at full revs and take the template away. Wash the hole out and then carry on drilling until you punch through. Top tip : cut a couple of squares of thick card about 50mm x 50mm and make a hole in the middle of each one. Slip these over the drill shank before putting it into the chuck of the drill. That'll stop the metal chuck of the drill striking the bath if you accidentally push through as the hole drilling is complete ?

Hi and welcome. After 5 builds I'm surprised your using a general contractor. You must be a dab-hand by now @Stones has a few under his belt too so good to have a few well-versed self-builders here. To what standards have your previous builds been to?

What exactly is it made from ? Stone dust resin ?

Good choice on the chop saw Is that the shadow line like my one ? I should say something about insulation, but it's amazing at what just one pint can do

Don't tell them the budget. Just say you'll pay accordingly for the kitchen you like. Ask them to omit appliances so you get the cost of the 'wood' only. Basically that'll de-cloak the cost of the actual kitchen. It's harder then for them to garnish the price with the usual 40% that they then revoke.

Once inside you only need 150-200mm between gas and electric in Wales.

Howdens are just too "bread and butter" imo. You can do much better for not much more £.

Airlock then. Proceed as above ?

Time to shop smart then. You can make a stunning kitchen and fit cheap appliances for now, upgrading as you go. As I've said, everything in the magnet showroom is available from magnet trade, literally thousands of pounds cheaper. . Get B&Q and wickes to design you a kitchen with the space you have, then get them to do two or theee variations explaining that time is of essence, then use those free drawings to start a design of your own. Upooad it here and we'll chuck in our 2-cents. Bingo.

Hi and welcome . Beautiful place, Cirencester. Take a seat, and the answers will follow .

Oh, and square looks so much better.

Damn your thick skin......we were hoping to have broken you by page 34 . The whole "I don't want to get wet turning the shower on" thing is just a load of bollo...... You turn the shower head to one side and then flick the switch. You also don't want to be dripping on the non sloped floor when adjusting the valve from head / handset / temp etc, so I'd actively put the valve wiring the confines of the wet floor area. Jump the pockets up a tile high each. The bottom one is too low.

Whats the black doodah under the boiler? Does one of the F&R pipes go through it ? Eg is it a filter, and blocked?

@Tennentslager I think I missed saying that lot above needs doing starting with all the other rads off. .

Deffo. BUT, with just the furthest rad on, and no others, the pump should be man enough to push through there. Ok. Let's put this to bed. Shut both valves on the furthest away rad that the attic feeds supply. Remove the blank cap opposite the vent / bleed cap. A bit of water will come out, then it should stop. If it doesn't, the TRV isn't on tight enough. Fit a hose to the radiator union with a flexi and run it to a drain. Top the boiler pressure up to 2.5bar. Switch the boiler on. Open the TRV to start purging water through the rad to drain. Open the filling loop up and keep the pressure above one. Open the regular valve ( wheel head ) on the rad and then instantly shut the TRV. Keep gong for a few minutes until you can't hear water and air from the hose. Switcg back to the TRV only for another couple of mins and shut the TRV. ( both valves shut at this point ). Switch the boiler off. Shut filling loop once you've topped up to 2 bar pressure. Remove hose, reinstate the blank cap, open the TRV ONLY to fill the rad, bleeding it until full. Open the wheel head and bleed again. ( both valves open at this point ). Switch the boiler on and see if that rad gets warm straight away. If it doesn't, come pick me up and we'll Thelma and Louise it. Once that's circulating open the other rad off the attic loops. Run for 10 mins until it's all hot. Then open the furthest other rad on the other loop, then the next etc until all on. Or not.

I had already factored in for this going full circle twice, but glad we're on the same page I wonder if the van that delivers the grout will be driverless. ?

I'll put the kettle on........... Thats going to create a LOT of work, and some ridiculously difficult cuts. Plus, imo, will go out of 'fashion' before the grout dries ??

Skim it.