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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Nickfromwales
    You need to get out more Mike
  2. Nickfromwales
    Happy wife, easy life. ?
  3. Nickfromwales
    https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-mdpe-pipe-inserts-25mm-10-pack/14371 On this link click more info then q's & a's ? https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-mdpe-pipe-inserts-25mm-10-pack/14371#product_additional_details_container Inserts are required, as said, an item description is just that .
  4. Nickfromwales
    Drain Off Cock. Looks like fun ? Haven't you a castle to construct ?
  5. Nickfromwales
    If there's only a few inches left in the sumps then won't the pump already be dry ? Get the worst out, crack the rad valves and drain into little flexi tubs and then change the locksheild rad valve to one with a combined DOC. Why power flush ? Do they get hot slowly / unevenly ?
  6. Nickfromwales
    Easier if you post links / examples of the fittings so we can comment
  7. Nickfromwales
    Congrats! Don't let the removals guys scratch the front door
  8. Nickfromwales
    I had a quote of £350 to get rid of a small shed roof. I'd say the price is fair, after all.....who wants to do that for a living anyway ? To know it's safely been removed / treated ?......smile when you pay, it's not a bad price at all. ?
  9. Nickfromwales
    These are £10 cheaper, and I believe folk here have used them. I just bought the marcrist one tbh as I didn't want to take any risk with the grade 5 porcelain I was drilling. Don't bother comparing the drill bit you bought to these ones as they're in a different league. FYI, on this grade 5 stuff my regular tubular porcelain bit just barely managed to scratch the pencil mark off the tile before overheating and glazing over, then going into the bin. It literally didn't even make a circle mark. The marcrist one doesn't 'fly' through but it did do about 25-30 holes dry. I'm sure it would have done many more if I kept it cool and wet, so as these appear to be outside locations your drilling at, I'd get the hose set up with a dribble of water and keep it cool / lubricated. I wouldn't use the lightweight mains powered pistol drill as it'll probably be going way in excess of the recommmeded 2-3000rpm speed, so get a geared drill and check first as excess speed will kill the bit in no time.
  10. Nickfromwales
    These are fantastic bits . I'd recommend a water supply to keep them cool during drilling if possible.
  11. Nickfromwales
    ?, allow me. Dai, your builders / sparky / plumber who caused you no end of frustration.....you'd be entitled to brand them with the title "tossers", but would it be fair for you to say "all builders, sparky's and plumbers are tossers"? Its fine to say "my architect was a tosser, as he got XYZ wrong". It's not fine to say people you've never met are. .
  12. Nickfromwales
    That seems to be the way forward. Was hoping to save on hardware by using the soldering iron and heat shrink. Any links to said do-dah please ? ?Any reason NOT to chop / splice / solder / shrink ? Assume I'll need plugs made to flying leads and plug into these splitters, then glean the necessary cores, solder on the 4-core and take that to the LEDs? What do I do with the open ends of the cat6? Crimp RJ45's on, or can I punch the cables down inside these splitters ? It's a Wren kitchen with an aluminium finger tuck at the top of the doors so it's handle less. Customer saw the LEDs in the showroom ( white I hasten to add ) and liked the idea but there was no way of getting a cable to the island which has two units back to back which would have the alu strip but no lights. Would look naff but the customer accepted it. They'll be chuffed to get them in there too.
  13. Nickfromwales
    My mate needed an property made 'habitable' ASAP as his girlfriends parents stumped up ~£54k for them to buy a non-mortgageable house at auction ( cash sale only then ) and they needed to pay back ASAP plus draw on the equity to refurb it. Second hand kitchen for a few hundred with electric free standing cooker, scrapped at the end Same for bathroom, just WC basin and bath, no shower. No tiles or paint. Handrails ( cheap and nasty / used ) could be secured to some plywood strips over the stud work and still comply. Electric pamel radiators would get you through or fire up your Ufh with an Ellis heater. Do you have services yet? Can you connect a WC?
  14. Nickfromwales
    Expansion volume is relative to the volume of water it services. A typical system boiler will have an expansion vessel ( EV ) capable of servicing circa 10 average radiators plus the connective pipework. The boiler manufacturer will be able to tell you the size of the EV and the volume of primary water it's suited to, with higher volumes / temperatures requiring additional expansion accordingly.
  15. Nickfromwales
    I may have to clear up why I liked the comment from @SteamyTea, which was done whilst quickly scanning the thread. Post with haste, and let your arse simmer in a hot pan over the next few hours . My bad. The differing replies Steamy got was what I was reacting to, and indeed for such mixed replies they would certainly have awarded themselves the tilte of "tosser". The closing statement in that post was what I failed to read and digest properly, so @Ian, I apologise unreservedly for that if it has caused you any offence, as none was meant whatsoever. @SteamyTea, Nick, can you please edit that comment to reflect the individuals who were at fault in this particular instance please, as it's clearly the production crew of the TV programme rather than any suggested profession. I think such generalisation may not represent us here very well . Thanks in advance.
  16. Nickfromwales
    I stepped out of the way of the last architect and bowed to his infinite wisdom. Then he had a bill from the customer that I generated to put the correct fire escape ( means of ) windows in and bin the ones he'd arranged and I subsequently fitted, like a good boy .
  17. Nickfromwales
    What channel / time please ? I'll get the ball and chain to record it
  18. Nickfromwales
    I'd buy a 1x 150 and 2x 100. I've just done one at 120m and it's not a one man job. . 300m even I wouldn't attempt without the decoiler.
  19. Nickfromwales
    You've never seen a 300m roll of UFH pipe have you Youll need a pipe decoiler or a friend with REALLY long arms
  20. Nickfromwales
    Pex al pex for me every time. Much much more robust plus it has memory, so when you manipulate / bend it, it stays there . Pert is ok if your in spreader plates I suppose but it has no attraction for me.
  21. Nickfromwales
    Yes to all in the previous post. Read about @JSHarris heating controls in his blog. He uses a simple room stat that has a 0.1oC hysteresis which works well. You do need G3 when you pressurise a hot water cylinder, but you'll get less losses over time plus no header ( F&E ) tank. As the F&E setup will continuously expand and evaporate it takes in fresh water. That means you'll have to keep the inhibitor level monitored and top up more frequently. Other than that there's no real downfall, but I do think it's a step backward TBH, and who wants a header tank these days ? That's the more common solution, and the uvc can be stored at lower temp too compared to the TS so far less latent ( waste ) heat loss.
  22. Nickfromwales
    You'll struggle to find a better deal than Telford. Stainless steel and iirc a 10 year warranty on the TS's. Ufh pump will pull on its own. And yes to the 2-port ZV. Yes, yes and yes. If you're really worried about flow go for the 46kw 28mm coil and TMV. Tbh, I had a 400L running the smaller 22mm coil and it was running 2 showers simultaneously whilst still being able to draw hot off at the kitchen sink / washbasins etc. The cylinder manufacturers will put them where they need to go automatically. Yup. One for Pv and the other / both for peak DHW boost.
  23. Nickfromwales
    Not really necessary if you fit a magnetic filter on the return of the boiler, and maintain the correct dilution of corrosion inhibitor. This should be reflective of the number of spaces making up a zone. A zone can have multiple Ufh loops heating it, for eg an open space kitchen diner could have 4 Ufh loops but only be controlled by a single thermostat. That thermostat would open and close those 4 of the manifold actuators in unison to govern the room temp. Most important would be making sure they're not in direct sunlight or in any draught. A sealed system would require G3, so yes, going open pipe ( vented ) would negate that. You don't need to have an open system and you will suffer a lot more conviction / evaporation heat loss with a TS that's connected to an f&e tank and its associated pipework. It will self - maintain though, and never need any 'topping up' manually as you have to do when sealed and pressurised. Yes. The last heat-only I did was a Vaillant 4-series. Cracking bit of kit.
  24. Nickfromwales
    ? 'word'. Ive got 4, fill your boots .
  25. Nickfromwales
    Fast arse, loads of kids ? Simples . Hi and welcome .
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