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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Nickfromwales
    Just get ones with NVM ( non volatile memory ) which have tiny batteries on the circuit board which last long enough to let you change the main batteries. Or not, if you've already bought some that don't
  2. Nickfromwales
    Quite inoffensive .
  3. Nickfromwales
    Yup. Don't ever use the white for finishing.
  4. Nickfromwales
    Any chance of a pic ? ?
  5. Nickfromwales
    @Crofter. I'm struggling to see how this is so difficult Do you have the shower valve ? Any pic? If it's how I think it'll be, then it's just 2 bent 15x1/2" irons with 1/2x3/4" bushes PTFE'd onto them. And it's a big no to flexis in the void ?. Flexis end in a female fitting anyway and you should need male. More info please ! Ive got bathrooms I did over a decade ago which almost all have 15x3/4 flexis under the bath. Most will have had 15x1/2 flexis to the basin, and some had flexis to the WC. Not one single reported failure, and I'm still in contact with a lot of my previous customers. The main cause of flexis dying is them being damaged during fitting. Twisting them to the point they kink, stretching them, over tightening them and worse. . Orheteise, if you use good quality ones, they're reliable. Almost every boiler has a flexi on the EV, and I've never seen one of those go down either.
  6. Nickfromwales
    That fitting isn't for the pressurised side . It only ever sees a bit of pressure from the shower valve to the shower spray.
  7. Nickfromwales
    For the benefit of anyone reading this, for a shower over the bath ( eg you'll be standing in it not sitting down ) you need a bath rated to have a shower over it. Normal cheaper baths are quite flimsy and aren't meant for you to stand in them, whereas baths rated for showers over them ( often referred to as 'shower baths' ) have thicker layers and reinforced woodend pads in the base with much stronger / suitable leg arrangements. Also, and this is the one most forget about, the shower baths are finished to a much finer tolerance, so for one the top edge is either perfectly flat ( to take the bottom seal of a shower glass panel, or has an edge sympathetic to the targeting and directing of splashing or pooling water. This one catches a lot of people out and then they ask why water is collecting in the corners where the bath meets the tiles / shower screen profile. .
  8. Nickfromwales
    @JIH Fyi a 400L HP uvc will come in at around £1100 inc vat and U.K. mainland delivery. A bit less for a 300L and just a few tenners more for a 500L ( as a 400 is made from a cut down 500 ). I too was confused at the arrangement, but just assumed ( yes, I know ) that one was a failsafe for the other. Also, you can get the uvc with 2 x 3kw or 2 x 6kw immersions for boost / failsafe / backup, which can be used in times of peak DHW consumption eg guests staying etc. ?
  9. Nickfromwales
    Oopsie. I meant they'll come with the uvc as kit, so you can integrate them according to the design. If you buy a dumb vessel then you don't get the package, i.e. no control group, no EV, no PRV etc etc. The uvc comes as a package deal with all the gubbings included in the price. You'll need a few other bits of course but that was what I was trying to get across, poorly.
  10. Nickfromwales
    Grant is a great boiler, and easily as robust as the Worcester Bosch, plus a good few ? cheaper.
  11. Nickfromwales
    I know that, but my argument regarding the discharge of a 'teacupful' of water vs no discharge / wasted water at all would be more to do with the regs surrounding conservation of potable water, like the ones that make you put restrictors into your taps and showers to reduce max consumption accordingly. Surely that needs to be negated by design though, especially when there is an easy solution such as adding an EV? My reference to the EV is to prevent the possibility of any water ever routinely being dumped to waste. The decider in this particular case is the spec of the cylinder in the HP which has a higher ( nearly double ) pressure tolerance than its regular counterparts. Yes, I agree that if the MIs state it has a working tolerance that will absorb the max expansion that is common in day to day use WITHOUT releasing any potable water to drain then I'd say don't bother with the EV as the PRV would only ever go under fault condition, but other than that id recommend an EV be fitted of suitable size. I think quoting any existing and clearly dissimilar case study here is pointless TBH as each system needs to be installed and commissioned on its own merit. I say we wait and see what the BCO has to say as I think it would be quite interesting to hear what their take is.
  12. Nickfromwales
    My point exactly, it's been signed off . Thays what I've been reiterating throughout. The way forward I think.
  13. Nickfromwales
    Which fortifies the advice to get the BCO involved. . If time were money here we'd have already gone into the red. .
  14. Nickfromwales
    "10 paces then turn!" With assumption being a non-starter you can simplify this by buying a <£100 worth of controls / peripherals and its put to bed with any decent G3 fitter more than happy to put his / her name to it. . T'will be compliant with ( normally stipulated ) G3 by design, safe by over-engineering, robust and reliable. If we as a collective are left stumped for the right solution here, any G3 fitter would just walk away with anything less than the regular boxes ticked. May be unnecessary, may be overkill, but for such little effort and so little cost why arse around any longer? Maybe this should be fired across to your BCO first and the info relayed back here ? It's only a phone call after all.
  15. Nickfromwales
    Hi mike. The bypass rad needs to be the one that shares the same space as your room thermostat, so usually the hallway where you don't need to have a TRV / individual room control. The return temp won't be lowered unless any rad has dissipated the heat into the room, so a big rad will need to dissipate a lot of heat. I'd go for smaller rads run hotter to get into the condensing range whilst not overheating the rooms. . By al means fit a bigger rad in the extension if you want as you can't turn a small rad up, but you can turn a big rad down. As far as a full manifold is concerned it's a bit overkill TBH, plus you wouldn't really want it under the floor. Just use these and these ( random ones off internet grab just for eg ) and cap off each outlet with a bit of pipe and a cap end, which you remove and discard every time you add another rad ?
  16. Nickfromwales
    If it's a Telford cylinder then go direct to Trevor @ Cylinders2go ( 07939 996940 ) and mention the forum He'll "quote you happy" ? I really think you should put the heater inside and just cut the flue hole. Having the heat loss from an LPG unit mounted externally is less than desirable, plus then you do away with the need, and ongoing draining and refreshment, of the antifreeze. Rethink that bit imo, and it'll reduce the pipe work too. Yes, the pushfit fittings you linked would be fine. I would use compression immediately around the manifolds though to make things more easily mountable / demountable. The 'iron' reference is just the name for the type of fitting, e.g. goes onto a BSP thread rather than tube, and are typically made from brass. For the same sort of money as the cylinder you linked you can get a stainless one from Telford. Lifetime warranty if serviced ( inspected ) annually. That would be an unvented UVC then, and come with all the necessary pressure reducing valves ( PRedV ) and pressure relief valves ( PRV's ), expansion vessel and an immersion heater for back up. The temperature and pressure relief valave will be on the uvc factory fitted too, so one less component to buy for the ashp circuit. Just add a filling loop and pressure gauge to the primary heating circuit and your good to go.
  17. Nickfromwales
    15mm copper to 3/4" male 15mm x 3/4" female These take 15mm up to 3/4" at the manifold in one fitting .
  18. Nickfromwales
    Why don't you just core drill for the flue? What's the construction ?
  19. Nickfromwales
    Is this to control wet underfloor heating, or elect I undertile heating ? The stat I linked is for wet, so no connection for the floor temperature probe.
  20. Nickfromwales
    If your going to buy a buffer, then get two pairs of tappings, one for rads and one for Ufh. You don't really need them to be separate tbh, but if you do tee them off one pair of tappings then each flow pipe will need a single-check non return valve so when one pump is running and the other isn't, the one running can't pull cool or cold water back out of the other circuit . Other than fine tuning what actually connects and exactly where, your looking good.
  21. Nickfromwales
    I think we're in the provisional 'join the dots' stage at the mo . The tappings will come on the cylinder already labelled / in the right place .
  22. Nickfromwales
    No, leave it at 15mm. The reason for the 22mm to it is to give it every chance at producing the most DHW it can. Once it's produced it it'll be at a reduced rate that won't really benefit from being upsized to 22mm IMO, plus you'll have less delay between the heater and the manifold with 15mm so less wait at the taps. Remind me again why this unit is going outside ?
  23. Nickfromwales
    Summat like this?
  24. Nickfromwales
    Camera = saved £££'s
  25. Nickfromwales
    Don't let the door hit you on the arse on the way out ? ? That will break the fermacell and cause a lot of unnecessary damage, so no. Why not get hold of an inspection camera and have a look see first ? Nowt worse than doing all that and there's a different fault. Will removing one tile allow you to repair the suspect item? I doubt it. Have a look first if possible and go from there. Have you double checked water isn't getting in there from a dodgy WC cistern or feed and tracking down a pipe ? Soil is quite hard to fit badly TBH.
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