Jump to content

Nickfromwales

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    30334

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    297

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Nickfromwales
    Your not supposed to use solid core cable for alarms as it's not considered reliable enough. Stranded has less chance of snapping and is FAR more forgiving when trying to make off 6 cores in the back of a little pir / remote keypad ( RKP ). . I don't think you'll get a NARCOSS ( iirc ) certificate with solid core cable either.
  2. Nickfromwales
    Hard wired all the way. I integrated my wired alarm system with my outside lighting, to operate when the alarm was triggered, connected to the strobe output. So after the alarm silenced itself the outside of the property still stayed floodlit. I fitted remote switches in the rear bedrooms, gleaned from spare pairs in the cables doing the window magnets, so SWMBO could flick the outside lights on without shutting the alarm off and going downstairs. With hard wired it can be made quite bespoke, A battery powered security system just doesn't appeal to me at all. Far more choice of sensors and end equipment with wired.
  3. Nickfromwales
    It does sometimes require the original flue to be either cut back, or replaced if it's too short.
  4. Nickfromwales
    The one I've been offered is a decent sized machine. I'll see what power it can run.
  5. Nickfromwales
    They're just random google images .
  6. Nickfromwales
    Yup. These kinds of thing :- g These are called, "plume management kits" and can be all sorts of crazy arrangements for redirecting nuisance plume. .
  7. Nickfromwales
    £70 for a 1000x500mm ready to go. Is it really worth the ag?
  8. Nickfromwales
    Possibly THE last place you want to yank the purse strings tight . Clean the mould release agent thoroughly from the underside, it's like a greasy layer, and rough it up with some 40 grit sandpaper. Prime the ply with 50/50 PVA and water and then set the tray down in rapid set tile adhesive. Put a lot of weight down in the bowl of the tray, not the edges, and tap it gently to get the level right. Lots of light taps NOT a big thump . Allow 24hrs before removing the weight ( cardboard and then buckets of sand / etc ) and it'll be there forever. You ok with how to make the trap and pipework up to line up with the tray hole and then you wind the top price in after ?
  9. Nickfromwales
    I've fitted umpteen of these flexible wastes over the last 10+ years without a single issue, complaint or failure. They're actually extremely reliable when fitting the likes of McAlpine. I kept two spare boxes of tiles for my bathroom, tiled over a 3-way diverter valve and boxed and tiled my bath panel over a click-clack waste and combination overflow filler. The simple fact is, almost every outlet valve and tap is now serviced / overhauled from the top / front, with the exception of say an overflow filler. The only thing I've been impressed with is @Onoff's bath tap retaining do-daa so you can make the taps off over the bath and offer them back down once tested. Sweet. I will say that I'd only ever fit deck taps ( not a pair of single stand alone taps ) so you cannot ever have them rotate and come loose, a comm problem simply alleviated by fitting a deck ( one-piece ) tap. +1 on the flip waste, just done one and I'm sold on the idea.
  10. Nickfromwales
    No current issues with damp? I would try and avoid breaking the slab up midway as it's reliant on being a complete raft. I think you may be better off just breaking out what you need to, let the chippings fall down, build your wall and then line it with a DPM. Then backfill with a very wet, but strong concrete mix with 10mm aggregate. Make a T-bar up to paddle the concrete up and down so it 'washes' under the slab and backfills the void, all the way up to the original slab ( top ) level, but short of the screed. Reapply the tanking solution and finish with leveller or screed.
  11. Nickfromwales
    Low fat ?
  12. Nickfromwales
    You could drill a series of core holes down to the 'chippings' and then make a very wet, high cement content slurry / grout and wash it down through to get them to bind. The only issue that may cause is introducing damp bridges up to the slab underside. Any idea what's there for DPM?
  13. Nickfromwales
    For making racking and possibly roof support 'trusses' out of 40 and 60mm box, for the shed, am I better off with mig or arc?
  14. Nickfromwales
    Looking good. Having the upstand does give some forgiveness but you still have balls of steel my man! Like the mash-up with the lights, and I may well steal the oak decor end idea too, of course pretending that it was my idea
  15. Nickfromwales

    Heads up

    Nickfromwales commented on sussexlogs's blog entry in sussexlogs

    What I was thinking ??
  16. Nickfromwales
    Just tell him either he does it in line with your program or you'll give him the bill for someone else to do it. Do you owe him any monies ?
  17. Nickfromwales
    UVC yes, just DHW. Greensquare are wrong as they've shown in the schematic you posted ( was it their drawing to you? ) that their separating the rads and UFH circuits with zone valves. It would only be ok if the rads were on with the UFH in parallel at all times and even then it would be less than ideal. Oil boilers like to run hard and long and are most efficient when doing so, and they don't modulate like gas and electric units can. An oil boiler firing just to put heat into your small UFH circuit would be unable to match the low demand as the UFH manifold wouldn't allow it to put more than ~35oC in at any time, and even less when the slab has warmed up. Id say a buffer of 120L with oil would be a good match.
  18. Nickfromwales
    Basically it's saying don't just slap the glue onto a fresh liquid screed and expect it to stick . The post-cure surface laitence needs to be mechanically removed, grinder etc, and then the surface needs to be primed over a couple of sessions to provide a key for the surface to be ready to accept this adhesive.
  19. Nickfromwales
    Quote :- Anhydride substrates After sanding and dustaspiration, apply PRIMER PU/ POLY ECO, PS39/ 3W, etc.. quartzide while is still wet and the next day after the complete curing, remove excess unbound crystal, then proceed bonding. Do the prep properly or lay the floor twice ( or three times if your my current client ).
  20. Nickfromwales
    +1
  21. Nickfromwales
    Solar ( Pv ) can be easily bolted on later down the line . Just get dual immersions on the UVC and one on the buffer and you'll be covered, not just for Pv, but you'll also then be able to survive short-term if you run out of oil. ( assuming you have oil as you mentioned an external boiler ? ). Ps, if you mention my username and the forum Trevor will still give you a discounted rate ?, but you'll have the slight recent increase to bear. They're still very competitive tbh, so not all bad .
  22. Nickfromwales
    Would be argued out all to easily unless a datum was given and signed off by both parties. He's laid a slab and that's enough to get him off the hook. @oranjeboom, how's relations with said builder? He still in comms with you about rectification / gravity of the situation and what's needed to put it right ?
  23. Nickfromwales
    ? If it's what I think it is then wait unti the grout is dry and we'll pop one together ?
  24. Nickfromwales
    Stop spitting at him and maybe you won't need to keep going back
  25. Nickfromwales
    Was up West Malling ( Laybourne? ) a while back fitting my B+SiL's bathroom. This one belongs to your builder. Maybe he laid the shat that I've having to deal with here I just cannot fathom out how they couldn't lay a bloody liquid screed level . It levels itself for crying out loud!!!!
×
×
  • Create New...