Temp

Details of the Waltham here.. https://ukfree.tv/transmitters/tv/Waltham All digital now. I think all the analogue TV transmitters in the UK have been switched off now. If you scroll down to "How will the Waltham (Leicestershire, England) transmission frequencies change over time?" there is a table showing the aerial band needed. In general an aerial designed for just one part of the band (eg Band A) is better than a wideband (Band W) aerial as they "let in" less noise. The table says that at the moment you need a wideband aerial (Band W), however around 31st March 2018 the frequencies will change so you will be told to retune your TV. After that you only need a band A aerial but a band W would continue to work. Over time parts of the TV band will be sold off to the mobile phone networks. It's possible that when this happens (>2020?) people with a wide band aerial will see some interference/blocking or other issues. At that point the cure might involve replacing a wideband/band W aerial with a narrow band aerial (in your case a band A) or possibly the addition of a filter. In short. if you are putting up an aerial now and want good TV for Christmas I'd go for a wide band aerial in the loft. If it won't get done until after 31st March I'd probably put up a Band A aerial on the chimney (if you have one) or gable end?. Many places only sell band W aerials because it means they don't have to stock so many models of the same aerial. Sometimes the colour of the plastic bung on the end of the aerial indicates the band. eg Black for wideband/band W and red for band A. Bit more later as I have to take my kids out. I need to check which direction the transmitter is from you because it doesn't broadcast equally in all directions. Just for info, this is the typical frequency response/bands for TV aerials. You can see that band A aerials don't allow signals from the top end of the band (right hand side) where mobile phones are going to appear.

Very much depends on a bunch of factors such where your house is, how far away the transmitter is, any trees or hills etc. I used foil covered insulation in our loft and obviously that blocked the signal. I replaced a few squares with non foil covered insulation and used a large aerial that was enough to get a decent signal, however we aren't very far from quite a strong transmitter. Try entering your postcode here.. http://www.digitaluk.co.uk/reception_guide or send us your postcode by PM and we might be able to recommend an aerial. The usual rules for good reception are: Use right type and size of aerial. Mount it as high as possible. Use good quality down lead. Avoid "back of the set" booster amplifiers. Better to use a bigger aerial, if you really must use an amplifier it should be fitted on the mast near the aerial. If you want Freeview in several rooms consider putting a powered "Distribution amplifier" (aka "Loft Box") in the loft.

My understanding is that building workers are allowed to live in a temporary building onsite without planning permission. The reason some people need planning permission is because their partners or children aren't, or can't be, classed as building workers, so their use of the building isn't "in connection with the operations being carried out on the land". From the GPDO.. http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2015/596/pdfs/uksi_20150596_en.pdf Page 50 says..

Companies that make automatic gates sell inductive loop detectors... https://www.theelectricgateshop.co.uk/Vehicle-Inductive-Loop-Presence-Detector http://easygates.co.uk/loop-detectors.asp Cheaper one via Amazon.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sensors-Traffic-Inductive-Vehicle-Detector/dp/B0190JJU0C But just one three star review (due to slow delivery).

Some makes say there must be a gap, others not. I know Kingspan used to do one that said no gap needed. You should allow the membrane to drape between rafters so that water can run down under the battens. If the membrane is pressed against the batten then water (aided by dirt/dust) can pool above the batten causing the batten to rot. The alternative is no drape and to use counter battens to raise the battens off the membrane.

That's ok. I nearly purchased a cheap Henry vacuum cleaner until someone pointed out it was a tiny one for cleaning keyboards.

It won't affect most people but the wealthy should remember that pension funds are outside your estate for inheritance tax purposes where as not all of your house might be.

I would seek professional advice. It might be who the contract is with rather than which subsidiary you were told to pay that matters.

So there aren't any joints in the pipe? Joints in rainwater pipes aren't designed to be gas tight (the wind will just blow it away) but indoor waste water pipes have rubber seals.

Do you want a simple thermostat or a programmable stat? Heatmiser do a wide range as others have mentioned both 12V and some 230V. You will need to know what your system uses. They even have some with remote sensors for use in bathrooms. Stat goes on the wall outside the bathroom with a remote sensor inside.

That may take some finding. Perhaps get yourself a pressure test kit. http://www.pavingexpert.com/drain11.html

I note they refer to sealed joints. Does this rainwater pipe go to a soakaway or into the sewer? If it goes into the sewer they might be worried about sewer gasses coming back up and leaking into the garage. Sewer gasses can contain methane and low oxygen levels (explosion and suffocation risk).

It's well worth learning how to solder copper pipe. Not nearly as hard as people make out. Tips: Use solder ring fittings Be obsessive about cleaning both the pipe and inside of the fitting with wire wool until it shines, then coat with flux. Make sure there is no water anywhere. Pipe and fittings must be bone dry. Do as much as possible on the bench then add the assembly to existing installation. Prep and solder all the joints on a fitting at the same time (eg on a T junction prep and put pipe in all 3 ports). If you aren't sure about a joint, sometimes twisting the joint while hot will get the solder to flow.

Could it be just a flat backup battery? They tend give up and start chirping at 3-4am because that's the coldest time of day/night. If it's not that then.. Post make and model number which is usually written on the alarm somewhere. Possibly between the alarm and mounting bracket/base. If it's a rented house should really let the landlord sort it.

Sometimes they want to inspect the fireproofing on steel beams before plastering. Could that be it?

Adding a pump to try and produce a power shower wouldn't work with an electric shower. It takes quite a lot of power to heat water to the required temperature and flow rate, generally there is none "spare" with an electric shower. So if the user turns up the temperature the shower has to turn down the flow rate to compensate because it can't increase the power beyond it's rated 10kW. Trying to force more water through with a pump would either have no effect, break the shower, or result in a lower water temperature than set by the user. I'm a bit surprised that not all electric showers are thermostatic.

http://www.renewablesfirst.co.uk/hydropower/hydropower-learning-centre/how-much-power-could-i-generate-from-a-hydro-turbine/

Our Dyson is 10 years old and still going strong. I think many people never clean the filters and wonder why the motor burns out.

Have done an outbuilding in oak. I've been treating it intermittently with Ronseal General purpose wood preserver (light brown) applied using a Hoselock plant sprayer intended for water. The sprayer only survives one or two coats but it's only slightly more expensive than a paintbrush and way faster with fewer drips. The windows are also oak and I just spray over them glass and all then clean off the glass with spirit. I went for stainless steel nails but regret using plain heads. You want textured heads to prevent/reduce reflections.

Will the length also be OK? It's shown as 5.1m long. I think if you put something like a 4.5m long Focus in there you won't be able to open the door between house and garage? If you want an up and over door you might find that eats into the length and rules out a high backed car like a small van or estate car?

Scaling I make the car 1.7m wide which is the width of a modern mini. Do you need a wider door? Wider garage? I thought our garage was going to be big enough but then I did a test and discovered we wouldn't be able to get out of the car. It was only one of the original smaller Focus so we ended up making it 1m wider. Park somewhere with the wall on the passenger side. Push a tape measure under the car until it hits the wall. Open drivers door far enough to get out.

Can also get chrome tape.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chrome-20mm-Wide-Pin-Stripe-Styling-chrome-foil-tape-10mts-long-NEW-/111551791860?epid=1588635695&hash=item19f90142f4:g:7E4AAOxyhSBR97HD

Is it me or is that wording slightly strange? It doesn't explicitly remove PDR. For example to meet the condition do you need planning permission or just written permission to do work under PDR? This link points out that the condition must be justified in writing on the approval.. http://planninglawblog.blogspot.co.uk/2013/10/can-conditions-preclude-permitted.html

So you currently have plastic pipe coming out of the tiled walls? Can you mount this sort of thing on plastic pipe..

Might be worth trying a local auction house for a second hand Henry. I've been to the auction house in Bedford a few times and each time the seem to have several - perhaps a Bedford has a lot of cleaning companies go bust or something?