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If I've understood correctly yes. Strongly recommend showing the above to an accountant (which I'm not) to get their opinion.

Don a bit more digging and it looks like the situation _may_ have changed since the web pages I linked to were written. VAT 708 4.3 has this..

I think it works if you contract Red Kite to build it, then sell you the house and you rent it out because the sale to you is zero rated (rather than exempt). But the company might face tax on any profit it makes building the house?

If Red Kite rents out the house I don't think they can reclaim the VAT (quarterly or otherwise) because a lease is vat exempt so not eligible for deduction of input vat. My guess is this approach would risk a vat bill later.

Pretty sure its down to the difference between something being "reduced/zero rated" and "vat exempt". I think if something is reduced/zero rated you can deduct input vat but if it's exempt you can't. A sale is zero rated whereas a lease is exempt.

I've seen this issue of intent mentioned several times in this context. Be prepared for HMRC to contact your lender for copies of any paperwork relating to the mortgage. For example if you tell the bank that you will only need some of the money for a few years because you intend to sell the first house then that may come back to bite you later. Its also unlikely to work if the second house is near identical to the first. You really need some sort of reason for moving just 10 yards. I would consider re-applying for planning permission on the second house before building it, perhaps to make it larger as you "intend starting a family etc". Remember you also need to live in the first house for 3 years to avoid the CIL.

Caution. There is a VAT issue if a house is built by a developer and then rented out before it's first sale. Google found... http://www.glovers.co.uk/news-articles307.html and a possible way to avoid the problem.. https://www.macfarlanes.com/what-we-think/in-depth/2017/build-to-rent-vat-issues/ I'm guessing that instead of a group entity you might be able to set up a trust and lend the trust the money needed to buy the house from you. The "sale" to the trust would trigger the zero rating. The trust then rents it out to a tenant(s) and pays you "interest" on the loan you made it to buy the house. There might be other advantages, for example the trust might be able to offset the loan interest against rental income which you as an individual won't be able to do for much longer (Phasing out by 2020 see... https://www.theguardian.com/money/2017/apr/01/mortgage-tax-relief-cut-doesnt-add-up-buy-to-let-landlords) This is all speculation on my part - you need an experienced accountant.

No sorry. When we built our place I bookmarked a bunch of large shallow shower tray suppliers not all of which still exist, but in the end went for a taller travertine tray.

Not sure it helps but you can get pretty big shower trays like 2000*900 just 40mm high. Less 25mm would give you a 15mm step. Would that be ok for a wheel chair? https://www.nwtdirect.co.uk/shower-trays/1580-extra-large-rectangular-shower-trays-1800mm-and-2000mm-wide-includes-90mm-waste.html#/159-legs_panels_shower_tray_-no/497-shower_tray_size-2000mm_x_900mm

+2 for Hardiebacker board. We fixed stone to it.

I would write to your MP asking him to pass on the question to the relevant department. They will usually reply even if the answer is vague.

Google found.. https://www.north-herts.gov.uk/home/planning/planning-advice-and-guidance/neighbour-consultation-scheme-house-extensions The extension must be completed by 30 May 2019.

Got a feeling the existing scheme runs out 30th May 2019?

If you have a trade that doesn't want to zero or reduce rate materials to you (as they should), then then your only option is to buy the materials yourself paying 20% and reclaim it.

If it's overflowing then new water must be getting in somehow. Check the ballcock valve in the header tank first but if not that then it could possibly be a leak in the hot water tank (eg in the coil).

Is the header tank full of hot water? Wondering if the vent layout is a bit odd and sludge/blockage is causing pumping over into the header tank?.

Who me? Right now I've not designed anything and printed it. I've just printed other people's designs. I've used Sketchup in the past but intend to get Fusion360 as that's what a lot on Thingiverse seem to use and it's free. So far I've been printing out parts to upgrade my A8 to an metal framed AM8. I've printed about 15 parts taking 28 hours of print time and 140 meters of filament. Still some quite big parts to do. The sequence for me will be: 1) Design objects in Fusion360 and export in an .stl file 2) Import the .stl into Cura and generate a .gcode file. 3) Send .gcode to the printer. 4) Print it. Cura is the slicer recommended by ANet. It turns an .stl files into the gcode file the printer needs. The printer prints the object by building up layers of plastic. Each layer is drawn using a small nozzle to extrude plastic onto the bed or layer below. Cura works out the path the nozzle has to take in 3D to print the object. Cura starts by allowing you to drag and drop one or more objects/.stl files onto a grid representing the printer bed. Then you can rotate, move or scale them. Typically I've had to rotate some parts to get the grain/layers in the right plane as this is the weakest plane in the finished part. Most parts are printed "hollow" to save time and plastic. In Cura you can specify the thickness of the outer shell and fill the inside with a grid that improves strength and stops (for example) the top surface sagging. When it's configured I usually check I haven't accidentally lifted a part off the bed (Z displacement must be zero) and click "Prepare". In a few seconds it generates the gcode file and tells you how long it will take to print. If that's too long you can either remove parts from the bed or tweek the settings to try and improve it. After that it's just a matter of getting the gcode file into the printer and setting it going.

Apparently you can import simple .stl files into Fusion360 or AutoCAd but I've not tried. I imagine it would be difficult to do anything more than simple changes on it. https://toglefritz.com/convert-a-simple-stl-into-a-body-in-fusion-360/ This lists some other programs it says can "easily" turn the surfaces back into solids... https://all3dp.com/1/7-free-stl-editors-edit-repair-stl-files/ No idea how good the results are. Better to persuade the author of the .stl to give you their source.

Stumbled across this site today. They have a range of different coving sections for led lighting. Can light either the ceiling or the wall. Pretty good range it seems. https://www.14th.eu I've no connection with the company and not used them myself.

Just build it using left over bricks ?

Before buying hardware I'd look to see if it's compatible with one of the sites like the one below, its a global collaboration to collect weather data... https://www.wunderground.com/weatherstation/hardwareandsoftware.asp https://projects.raspberrypi.org/en/projects/uploading-weather-data-to-weather-underground The UK Met office also has the ability to take your data. I've not looked at how well any of these serve the data back to you.

If it needs to be programmable/customisable/bespoke then perhaps a PLC? Google says there are cheap ones available... https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/news/low-cost-programmable-logic-controllers-for-the-frugal-engineer/ https://www.t-uk.co.uk/products/plcs-with-integrated-hmis/micro-plcs/ Never used one but thing they use Ladder Logic.. https://www.plcacademy.com/ladder-logic-tutorial/

In a rush but see the Paving Expert web site... http://www.pavingexpert.com/featur04.htm I don't think all gravel boards are strong enough to be used as a retaining wall.

Have done three small prints so far. Main issue/difficult I'm finding with the A8 is levelling the bed.... To get the first few layers to stick to the bed the nozzle has to skim over the bed the thickness of a sheet of paper above it. So the bed has to be level to that accuracy. However the printer mechanics make this quite difficult to set up. It's adjusted using M3 bolts and wing nuts but the whole thing isn't very rigid, move the printer and it twists enough to make the gap too big or two small requiring readjustment. I've got a bit of 25mm MDF on the way to bolt it to. I've seen references to auto levelling add-ons but not investigated that yet.

Some of that may well be due to my inexperience. Tweaks to the slicer settings can make quite a difference. You can also control the head speed but I don't yet know how far I can push my cheapo machine.