Temp

We have a freestanding "boat" bath which I got as a "second" from a chap on eBay 12 years ago. Also acrylic and it's been great. Before buying a bath I recommend sitting in it if you can. Some makes are strangely shapped (too narrow or even too long so you keep sliding down).

In my case they asked for a landscaping plan but we're really only interested in getting me to plant a hedge. So I just sketched where the hedge was going on a site plan and made the relevant number of photocopies. They also wanted a one page planting plan which basically said how many plants, what intervals and what species I was going to plant, details of rabbit protection (plastic spirals) and a note confirming that any that die will be replaced for the first 3 years.

It's very common for planners to treat a conversion differently to a knock down and rebuild. In some cases planners have agreed a "conversion" but refused or tried to refuse a later application to knock down and rebuild. This sometimes happens if the house is in the countryside where a new house wouldn't be allowed today. In some cases owners have had to take it to appeal. If this sounds like your plot I wouldn't knock any more walks down until you get approval for the knock down and rebuild. Eg preserve the possibility that the existing grant can be implemented even if at some cost/complexity.

As I recall you have 6 months from grant of permission to appeal against a planning condition. An alternative is to make a section 73 application to have a condition removed. The latter might be quicker. If you move fast you might have time to do both. Failing that you can make a whole new application that states you will only have a single phase supply (and makes the case for it).

Also google "repair hdmi" without quotes for other ideas. Crimping is probably best but the tool isn't cheap and might be connector specific?

There are solder repair connectors available but I've never used them. Will need a small iron with fine tip. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HDMI-Male-19-Pins-Connector-A-Type-Solder-Termination-Repair-Replace-Kit-5-Pcs/162962886822?epid=1538358618&hash=item25f15850a6:g:jyUAAOSwfuBazLNs I don't see any instructions. edit: or a backshell?

,+1 Unless you plan to dig deeper than the neighbors foundations I probably wouldn't bother with the PWA either. If the neighbour that notified you asks tell them you aren't going deeper than their founds so it's not necessary The council Tennant probably won't care unless you make a lot of noise or similar. If you notify the council they are likely to want to go by the book and are likely to want you to pay for up to three surveyors and any other costs they can dream up. There is no penalty for not complying with the act. A neighbor would have to take you to court and prove you caused damage. Then the fact that you didn't get PWA would weigh against you. The judge might be more inclined to issue an injunction stopping work etc. Perhaps ask the neighbors if you can take photos of any existing cracks in the nearest rooms before you start.

To be honest I'm not 100% sure. So just my opinion.. In most cases the brick bond crosses the boundary so I could argue there is some "reliance on support" by each side on the other. To me that suggests that a strip of the outer leaf is probably part of the party wall. I would think that strip would be about as wide as the thickness of the main part of the party wall. Your drawing shows the new wall ties into the strip I believe is part of the party wall but only just. How have you arrived at the distance that it is set back from the boundary? Presumably its set back to avoid gutters overhanging the boundary but it doesn't look like you have allowed much for gutters?

Not much news but.. https://www.gov.uk/government/news/brokenshire-hails-package-to-build-homes-and-opportunities-in-communities

1) Planning Permission Pretty sure you will need planning permission because a footpath is a highway... https://www.gardenlaw.co.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=12073 2) Party Wall Act Will your extension be 3m from his boundary or 3m from his house? See section 28 page 19 and the diagram 6 on page 20.. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/523010/Party_Wall_etc__Act_1996_-_Explanatory_Booklet.pdf Its the distance between your foundation trench and their house or outbuildings that matter. The PWA applies if: a) It's less than 3M or b) It's between 3 and 6m AND your trenches will be more than a certain depth (see diagram 7 on page 21

Does your council have the CIL? To qualify for the self build exemption you have to do paper work before starting on site. Not sure how that works if the founds are already in.

We have a rooms-in-the-roof house. Roof stick built using 200mm deep rafters filled with PIR. It's not enough insulation. Too hot in summer as well. Fitting PIR between rafters was a nightmare job that was too easy to do badly. If building again I would either build a conventional two story house with insulation at joist level or, if it has to be room in the roof, a warm roof with the insulation above and between the rafters.

From memory I think it actually says they want VAT "Invoices" on the claim form.

I'm thinking its a combination of not enough fixings and no expansion gaps between the boards.

Seems odd to define the area using a schedule. How do they deal with land that's not got an address (eg like a paddock or field)? Does the schedule have grid references?

We have one sliding door and I would only use them where absolutely necessary. You typically need a wider door to achieve the same opening and they are slow to open and shut compared to regular doors.

If you think £20 is bad check out the new fees for getting probate.

I was involved with two groups fighting plans for large developments near two conservation areas. I discovered not all conservation areas are created equal. Planners will fight hard to protect some conservation areas and others they won't. Planners sometimes take an interest in the view into or out of a conservation area, in some cases this can affect plans to build some distance outside the conservation area. My council appears to use maps to define conservation areas.

Can you still apply direct to the council to discharge or do you have to use the portal?

Here it say it's for the "financial transaction"... https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200247/professional_portal/145/financial_transaction_service_and_payment_nomination So how come the Land Registry can charge £3 for a title plan with no fee? If they can do it....

Easting & Northing are coordinates for a point on the plot. Ideally you use a GPS to accurately find that point on the ground (unless the surveyor picked a landmark like a tree or or marked its position with a stake etc). I also recommend buying a 60m tape and double checking the dimensions of the plot vs the survey plan and title deed.

Make sure you get ALL of the CIL exemption paperwork sorted before you start any work on site or you may loose the exemption. If in doubt ask.

If you are going doing a Building Control Application you normally send them a full set of plans and other documents with the application. The BCO will look over the plans and write back with a request for any extra info he needs. That might be anything from evidence that soakaways will work (soil percolation test required) to engineering calculations for steel beams (Structural Engineer might be needed to do some sums). Eventually he will agree that what you have submitted is ok and you can start work on site. He will usually want to inspect the bottom of the foundation trenches before you fill them.

The pooling restriction applies to all areas regardless if they have introduced the CIL or not. However I'm not 100% certain if the pooling restriction applies to ALL planning obligations or just S106 agreements. As I understand it the pooling restriction could apply to any planning obligation if it is a "reason to grant planning permission" but they don't usually say its a reason to grant.