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Perhaps you could just tell them it's missing :-) You could even send them a copy of your council tax bill as evidence :-) https://www.royalmail.com/personal/receiving-mail/update-your-address Report an incorrect or missing address Report a missing address or a change to your address details here If you’ve searched for an address and you can’t find it, or you think it's wrong and should be updated, please use the form below to report it to us providing as much detail as you can. Once you’ve submitted the information, it will be passed to our Address Maintenance Team who will handle your enquiry and respond to you by email within two working days. Once changes have been confirmed, updates to our address databases may take up to five working days to come into effect. All fields marked with an asterisk need to be completed.

The council sent me a letter out of the blue stating that they anticipated our house would be complete for council tax purposes in 30 days. I wrote back stating the date we actually expected it to be completed which I think was about 60 days later than their date. They accepted our word for it. I think our predicted date was close to being right and neither of us did anything about any slight difference.

Correct. You don't need Planning Permission to form a new access to/from an unclassified road. You may still need permission from various bodies if it involves converting an open ditch to a piped ditch/culvert. Some council documents say you need permission from the EA, others say the county council, others refer to "drainage boards". The CIRIA guide to Culvert Design and Operation C689 says it's different depending on which part of the UK you are in. For England it refers to the Flood and Water Management Bill 2009(?) and says IDB (Internal Drainage Boards), county and unitary local authorities have responsibility for giving consent for culverting "ordinary water courses" (eg not rivers, that's the EA?).

My understanding is that at some point you will need an application for a license under Section 184 of the Highways Act 1980. This is also known as a "dropped kerb" application. However its a bit more complicated when a ditch is involved. I found that Boston (Lincs?) had a guide here.. http://www.boston.gov.uk/PlanningDocs/BBC/B-18-0323/LCC crossing specification.pdf ..which mentions who you need to get permission from on the last page. Sorry but that doc appears to be images in a pdf so I can't cut and paste the relevant bit but it's only a few pages long. It also refers to "Typical layouts" and "Details of Designs" being available from the Highways office so it might be possible for you to get example drawings from your LA and use them to make your own drawings to submit with your license application.

When fixing joists to steel my builder insisted on filling in both sides of the web by shot nailing in some timber. Then used joist hangers with long tails. The tails were wrapped over the top of the steel and nailed into the timber infill on the back side. Where there were joists both sides they were staggered.

Our BCO checked that every separate bit of glass in our windows, some of which had 16 divided lights, had coated glass. He had a special meter to prod each pane with. He also went looking for kite marks on every pane of toughened glass. Some were so faint he marked them missing until I pointed them out to him. Our drain pressure test failed as we hadn't finished a bathroom. Had to tape a plastic bag over the end of a pipe and put water in a trap. There were loads of things he never checked or missed. Our wood burner was in place but not connected to the chimney as we were waiting for a register plate. No ratings plaque. Oil boiler not commissioned etc.

Looking at all the images it appears they may have built the wall upto the boundary, then filled in the 1" gap at your roof level, then built the overhang. Is that correct or is the brick wall itself 1" on your side? Edit: it's hard to see how the wall can be on your side if your roof overhung the boundary.

Neither roof should overhang the boundary without permission from the other side. So you both appear to be in the wrong. It makes no difference that yours was built first. Personally I wouldn't worry about it too much. If/when your roof needs replacing I would ask the neighbour if you can "cut some (lead?) flashing into their wall to ensure rain water won't penetrate their wall".

Could it mean Tyvek Reflex in the roof and a 2mm (0.2mm?) thick membrane in the walls?

Just for info, here is a side view of my A8 showing the electronics. The red PCB is the Arduino based controller, two little boards at the bottom left are the MOSFET upgrade boards to drive the bed and nozzle heaters. Click to enlarge.

That one looks similar to my Anet A8 except I think the frame on the CTC is wood (MDF?) rather than acrylic. Mine was around £104. I think they are all essentially copies/clones/variants/derivatives of the Prusa i3. I note CTC claim a print speed of 100mm/s. My A8 is specified at 60mm/s and I've run it at that and had no issues. I tried it at 120mm/s and had failures after 2-3 hours. Very annoying to get that far into a 5 hour print only to have it fail. I think 100mm/s might be ok but I haven't really run mine at that speed for long enough to be sure. It can depend on what you are printing. All these cheap Prusa i3 printer clones are quite crude. For example if the steppers start skipping they can crash the bed into the frame as there are no end stops only limit switches on one side to zero the bed. I don't know about the CTC version but some are known to be a fire risk unless you made upgrades by adding MOSFET boards to drive the heated bed and keep an eye on a few connectors. The heated bed draws a fair current. Another 3D worth looking at is the Creality Ender 3 which is around the £160-£180 mark. It's still a kit or partly assembled kit but already has a metal frame.

I've heard this isn't an unusual problem. Sometimes changing the pump speed can alter the noise the mixer makes so it's probably due to turbulence in the mixer? Perhaps try sound insulation? Perhaps _lightly_ clamp some mole grips onto it or adjacent pipework to see if adding mass to it helps? Not too tight mind.

Soakaways didn't work on our site so stated in our planning application we would discharge to a piped ditch in the road. I believe the EA were a statutory consultee and they sent a letter back mentioning that there had been a flooding issue just down the road/hill from us. They didn't say no but said they said they "wouldn't want us to make flooding worse". So we told the planners we were going to install a rainwater recycling tank with the overflow going to the piped ditch. I don't know if they passed that information onto the EA but we never heard any more about it. The rainwater tank is only used for garden/car washing so in wet weather I suspect it's full most of the time and 100% goes out the overflow. Someone mentioned a trick he had used on other houses.. When connecting to the services in the road lay some perforated pipe in the trench and back fill with gravel. The services could well already be in gravel so you end up forming a massive long soakaway that conveniently leads off site, down the road, around the corner.... I suspect this is frowned upon so you didn't hear it from me.

TLC Electrical have a range of downlighters of different types https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Lighting_Menu_Index/Lighting_Downlights_Index/index.html The void depth is typically given somewhere on each page but I would also check the makers data in case of errors.

No gas in our village but an LPG hob is very practical. A 47kg cylinder lasts us at least 18 months and costs £50-£80. Might be expensive per kWH compared to mains gas but not much in absolute money.

I got a metal work kit from here http://www.ratrig.com/ . It included standard "2040" (20mm x 40mm) extrusions (cut to length), some metal L shape corner brackets, and a bag of allen key head bolts and "T" nuts. The two vertical extrusions came with the holes at the bottom end already tapped M5 (which I was expecting I would have to do myself). No other holes or processing is needed anywhere. Each joint between extrusions has at least one L shape metal bracket and one printed plastic bracket. You might be able to omit some of the plastic corner brackets but they have alignment ridges that help keep everything square even if the metal bracket is probably providing 90% of the strength. It seems there is a whole sub culture out there of people rolling their own 3D printer and CNC machines. If you know what you are doing you can buy partial kits containing a controller and stepper motors from Amazon and roll your own frame, rails and linear bearings etc. Most 3D printers seem to use the same standard heater block and nozzle also available on Amazon. Have a browse around that Ratrig site and you can find several different frame styles, some of which are intended as upgrades or to roll your own. I'm still exploring Fusion 360 but I'm amazed how powerful this software is and its free for home use.

Not sure if it will make it more accurate. It should help remove some artifacts like ripples from some surfaces and make bed levelling easier. Already managed to print this "impossible dovetail" which most woodworkers will be familiar with. I drew it up in fusion 360 and the clearance between the two parts is 0.2mm (as drawn). The two parts were printed separately (change of filament between) and slide together easily but not too easily. Sorry my photos are a bit out of focus it's my cheap phone.

Update: I've now almost finished printing all the parts needed to upgrade my cheap Anet A8 to a metal frame. The log on the printer says it's taken about 65 hours of printing time!! Not sure I believe it. That might be the total time I've had the printer on? Still it wont be much different as I don't leave it ON when not actually being used. I've gradually learnt how to speed up the printing process but this is clearly the big issue for 3D printing. If you are "time poor" then a faster printer would definitely be a better purchase. The box on the left for the control electronics was meant to be printed in two parts, a 5 sided box and the lid with hole for a fan. The main part should have taken 9 hours to print. In an attempt to print it faster (6 hours) I turned up the speed too much and had issues with the stepper motor skipping after about 2 hours. Second attempt also failed at a slightly slower speed. In the end I decided to salvaged the back from one failed print and broke the rest of the box down into 4 separate sides in Fusion 360 and printed each separately, then super glued them together. Most of the parts are from this design https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2263216 but I took parts from several other designs (the belt tensioners, electronics case, LCD mounting brackets, PSU cover) as people have improved these elements since the original was published. Think I have one more part to print before I tear down the original printer and transfer over all the rest of the stuff.

Has come up before but the devil is in the detail. For example "site clearance" can be zero rated... However the reclaim form specifically excludes muckaway and _separate_ transportation/delivery invoices.

What do you mean by eco friendly? 25mm of insulation isn't much to prevent heat loss. Building regulations for the floor of a new house suggest more like four times that. If you want to improve the performance of the insulation it might be possible to use PIR insulation rather than polystyrene but what's going on top? Tiles need sufficient support. I suspect the grey coating might be fibreglass/cement for that reason? Do you have solar panels or is electric heating considered eco friendly these days? I guess it's ok if you are on a renewables tariff.

Our showers are on first floor which is beam and block, insulation and ufh in screed.... We omitted the insulation and screed under the shower trays. Instead we built a platform from timber and WBP plywood to support the tray at the right height and provide a void for the trap and waste pipe. Used a top access trap positioned in a clearance hole in the plywood. Tray then lowered onto mastic on the plywood.Top of trap fitted through hole in tray into the lower part of trap. This allows top of shower tray to be say 5mm above the finished floor level so the door seal doesn't scrape on the tiles.

We have a lot of exterior oak that was similarly marked. Cleaned it up with a MOP fitted with a sanding disc.... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002QS1LZ2/ref=asc_df_B002QS1LZ258520862/?tag=googshopuk-21&creative=22122&creativeASIN=B002QS1LZ2&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309785472429&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14935090843020364098&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9044886&hvtargid=pla-561971005126

I think the OP said PDR had been removed?

There have been one or two stories in the press about issues with selling a house with rent a roof PV. I wonder if being tied into a similar contract for an ASHP would also cause problems? https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showthread.php?t=5886950 https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showthread.php?t=5679637

Like the idea of double doors on the west elevation. Plan for possible conservatory that side as well. Would they let you run the ridge east west instead of North south? That might make an extension to the west easier?