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If we assume each pour is 0.7m high (about 2ft) the average pressure is.. H*Rho*g/2 Where H is the depth and Rho the density of concrete = 0.7*2400*9.81/2= 8,240 N/sqm. That's a force equivalent to 840kg per square metre pushing out sideways. If it moves or bends then the concrete pours out of the bottom. Make sure the shuttering is well designed. Your carpenter might not be the best person to do this.

One possibility, but a lot of work, might be to make your own concrete "paving' slabs and then "tile" the wall with them. Each slab would have to be made in a wooden mould. I made coloured paving slabs that way with my dad about 1970.

Beware that any kind of form work for liquid concrete has to be very strong. The pressure at the bottom doesn't depend on the thickness of the concrete only the height. The density of concrete is high so the forces on formwork can be huge. Manually pressing large areas/planks of wood into cement/plaster that is dry enough not to slump off the wall would also take a huge force.

Also found this from NICEIC.. https://professional-electrician.com/technical/changes-code-practice-emergency-lighting/

Google found these but they might be out of date? I would have thought any good installer would have their own similar forms? https://www.elecsa.co.uk/Documents/Public-Documents/Contractors/Model-Fire-Alarm-Certificate.aspx and http://www.shepleyelectricalservices.com/Emergency Lighting Completion.pdf Is that what you are asking for or are you asking about which parts of the standards apply?

In a fire magnets loose their magnetism don't they?

Ideally they should trip when they detect a short between live and earth not wait until the remote leak is via a human!

You definitely need planning permission to build anything between B and the road, eg in that box on your drawing. That's because of paragraph/point 3 here... https://www.planningni.gov.uk/index/advice/advice_apply/advice_apply_homes/advice_around_home/advice_home_structures.htm 3. No part of the shed / greenhouse / building is in front of the principal or side elevation of the original house that faces onto a road. It seems clear to me that B is (at least) a side elevation facing a road. Edit: in fact side C is the only place you could put an outbuilding without planning permission as all other elevations face a road.

I share your frustration with the planning rules. I had a quick look at your photos and I think your first issue is to work out if the proposed location is "forward of a wall forming the principal elevation" of your house. The principal elevation is normally the side facing the road but it's not 100% clear to me which elevation that is on your house. What looks like the side to us, the planners may call the principal elevation. You may have to get that determined by the planners.

Ask for a discount.

This web site uses three words to identify any place on earth to within 3meters.. https://what3words.com So for example the entrance to Downing Street is cheer.daily.vanish. So why not look up the square for your front door and the three words it's been allocated. Then name your house that so the three words are in your address. Means any delivery driver with the app can easily find you.

How does the new height compare with other houses nearby? I would spell that out in any revised application.

It took us several days to compare and correct three quite different quotes because they had made different assumptions or ignored things. If after that exercise you still get wildly different quotes consider getting a Quantity Surveyor to work out what he thinks it would cost to build. It's not cheap but then you know which of the quotes is the most realistic or which has under priced the job and might not hang around to finish it.

My understanding is that using a mole is far better for the trees than even hand dug trenches. However you need pits at intervals to start/end and change direction. See para 4.5 if this link works.. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.rossendale.gov.uk/planx_downloads/2012-0517_Guidelines_for_Utility_Services.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwj20Ynf-qDhAhWyThUIHaVyBqoQFjATegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw1SBK9Pejit1n9k6AbUPUKq

You could reply saying that you understand they must charge VAT on everything but they must also charge it at the correct rate or they commit an offense. Not everything is standard (20%) rated. Some things are 5% and others such as work on a new dwelling must be charged at 0% (Note that 0% is not the same as VAT exempt).

What's the wording of the condition? How does it define "heavy"? I'm wondering if it's unenforceable.

Sorry if you already know but...Make sure you have you CIL exemption granted and you notify them of commencement before doing anything on site or you risk loosing the exemption.

Could you centre the tray and tile both walls?

We only have house names and it's a pain. Sometimes courier drivers just can't be bothered to drive around looking for the house, especially after dark in winter. I now routinely enter the second line of my address as "House on right of church". I also get calls from overseas companies because they always have numbers and don't understand when I tell them my house doesn't have a number.

I would check with the planning office what visibility splay is required and see if you can meet it. If you can then submit a planning application. If not then consider reducing a section to 1m high. If you own the land bordered in red it looks like other enlargements are possible.

Normally you would be allowed but as others have said there is a 1m height limit next to a boundary. That doesn't mean you can't build a 6ft wall but you would need planning permission. You should be able to get a title plan from the Land Registry web site via email for a £3. Beware of fake land registry web sites that can look more professional than the real one! All they do is charge more and get the plan from the real LR web site. The real site is here.. https://eservices.landregistry.gov.uk/eservices/FindAProperty/view/QuickEnquiryInit.do?_ga=2.19072443.2041850150.1553521796-652438527.1526896499 if that doesn't work you may need to register here first.. https://eservices.landregistry.gov.uk/ Once registered enter house name/number and post code and it should offer you a Title Register, Title plan and flood risk indicator. You want the title plan. They sent it by email as .pdf last time I used it.

If your council has a 20m rule you will need to check the exact wording. May only apply to 2nd floor windows. http://planningobjectionletters.co.uk/articles/private-matters

Regarding the cable... If you can mole rather than trench it should keep the tree officer happy.

160mm for the whole lot? I would go with 100mm PIR and 60 mm screed with reinforcing in. What's going on top? It can be hard to stick tiles to some types of liquid screed.

+1 The key it that your exemption must be granted and your notice of commencement received before you start work on site. Best ask the council to confirm receipt in writing (include an SAE?) rather than relying on using a signed for delivery service. Our planners signed for brick samples, lost them and the person that signed for them couldn't be identified from the sig.