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In general repairs to a roof do not need planning permission even if they involve taking the whole roof off and replacing it. However repair means replacing it with something that is virtually identical (at least on the outside). If you want to do more than repairs and actually make significant changes (eg to the size, shape, height, and possibly colour etc) then you would need to check if the end result will be within permitted development. If it would be within permitted development then planning permission is not required. If the original building is more than 10 years old it then it does not matter if it was built with permission or without and is outside permitted development rules. After 10 years the planners can no longer take enforcement action for the original breach of planning. You can repair it without needing to change anything to make it comply. But make sure you take photos, ideally with height poles, so you can prove the height/location hasn't been changed should anyone question it later. If you are the sort of person that likes paperwork in order, you could apply for a certificate of lawfulness on the grounds that they cannot take enforcement action after 10 years. They would be unable to refuse this if you can prove it's been in breech for more than 10 years (in some cases they only have 4 years). No. See above _repairs_ do not need planning permission. Neighbours can be funny about "overhangs". Officially nothing can overhang a property boundary without permission of the neighbour. However many properties have such overhangs with nothing in writing. If you are removing part of the roof that currently overhangs with a new roof that overhangs make sure it doesn't overhang further. Best keep on good terms. Let them know your plans to repair the roof "so it doesn't blow off and land in their garden etc". If you need to demolish and rebuild the whole building then the answers above might be different.

Re cheap socket sets. I find the sockets themselves are ok but the ratchet in handle fails or falls apart. When you buy a replacement handle it won't fit in the box. Oh and the catch on the box will fail and all your sockets will fall out and disappear to the bottom of the tool box or roll under the car :-)

One house we owned had smooth tiles on the floor of the garage. Oh and a dent in the wall where a car had slid into it.

Perhaps get a bunch of cheap ones from China. They probably come from there anyway.

Don't make the mistake I did.. I left it in the garage, in winter it froze and broke.

I've had and have virtually identical cracks. What I think happens is that the plaster on the ceiling shrinks pulling the plaster from the wall. The crack sometimes happens where the wall and ceiling meet but frequently you get these horizontal cracks about 2" lower down the wall. In my experience the 2" wide strip of plaster above the horizontal crack is usually stuck to the ceiling but loose from the wall. On previous houses I've bashed out the loose plaster which leaves big holes all along the top of the wall. The holes are too big/deep for "fillers" so I use proper plaster (sometimes ready mixed). On the three houses I've lived in I've never actually found any obvious scrim tape that accounts for the position of the horizontal crack.

It's been said before, but to qualify for the CIL exemption you have to follow a strict process. Including notifying the council of your commencement date. Well apparently the regs on this are contradictory.... https://www.theguardian.com/money/2019/jan/27/a-24000-penalty-for-failing-to-submit-one-piece-of-paper-to-the-council Best file a commencement notice anyway.

I might be wrong but I suspect councils don't have systems in place to check for CIL clawback on a sale let alone the situation you raise.

I have several cameras outside using POE. I used a screened cable rated for outdoor use made by Equiniti. My cameras are from Hikvision and came with a socket on a tail like this... I wasn't convinced the socket was going to be waterproof so I used used some small boxes to hide the connections in under the eaves. Biggest issue is spiders. The IR in the camera reflects off their webs at night blinding the cameras. If doing a new install I would probably try disabling the IR in the camera and use separate IR lights a few feet away.

A planning consultant saved our application but not in the way we expected. After nearly a year at the pre-application advice stage we were about to give up. However we decided to hire a planning consultant to look at our plans and see if what we were trying to get approved was as unacceptable as the planners had been telling us. So we opened Yellow Pages and called up the first one in our area. After explaining what what we wanted him to do and agreeing a price we sent him out site details and drawing package. Few days later he called us and said he had done work for a previous owner of the plot and had a letter that would be very helpful to us. It turned out that the planners had told a previous owner in writing that the sort of house we wanted to build would be a "better option" for the plot! When we showed the planners the letter they gave in immediately.

Strange things can happen in planning land.. Suppose you submitted a notice of intention to demolish and go ahead with that. The planners might be able to argue your existing planning consent can no longer be implemented. There is no longer a building capable of being demolished and replaced. So you file a new application and find the local plan says they don't grant permission for new houses in the countryside, only replacement dwellings.

Appeals Inspectors can take draft plans into account but they don't give them as much weight as a plan that has been out for consultation and is only waiting for final approval or indeed fully approved plans. So yes by all means cite the draft plan if it helps your case.

My understanding is you need to notify the council.. https://www.harrislamb.com/blog/do-i-need-planning-permission-to-demolish-a-building/

Or see this which suggests a chat to the postman might be enough to get it sorted! https://www.poweredbypaf.com/my-address-is-wrong-missing-does-not-exist-or-is-not-recognised-what-should-i-do-report-it-to-royal-mail/ In the case of new developments we’re normally informed that an address is capable of receiving mail by our postmen and women – they capture details of thousands of address changes every year whilst out on their walks. Sometimes though, the householder will know that an address is ready to receive mail or has changed before anyone else does. On these occasions, we recommend telling us directly. Whether for a business or residential address, simply use the short online form on our website to report it to our Address Maintenance Team.

Perhaps you could just tell them it's missing :-) You could even send them a copy of your council tax bill as evidence :-) https://www.royalmail.com/personal/receiving-mail/update-your-address Report an incorrect or missing address Report a missing address or a change to your address details here If you’ve searched for an address and you can’t find it, or you think it's wrong and should be updated, please use the form below to report it to us providing as much detail as you can. Once you’ve submitted the information, it will be passed to our Address Maintenance Team who will handle your enquiry and respond to you by email within two working days. Once changes have been confirmed, updates to our address databases may take up to five working days to come into effect. All fields marked with an asterisk need to be completed.

The council sent me a letter out of the blue stating that they anticipated our house would be complete for council tax purposes in 30 days. I wrote back stating the date we actually expected it to be completed which I think was about 60 days later than their date. They accepted our word for it. I think our predicted date was close to being right and neither of us did anything about any slight difference.

Correct. You don't need Planning Permission to form a new access to/from an unclassified road. You may still need permission from various bodies if it involves converting an open ditch to a piped ditch/culvert. Some council documents say you need permission from the EA, others say the county council, others refer to "drainage boards". The CIRIA guide to Culvert Design and Operation C689 says it's different depending on which part of the UK you are in. For England it refers to the Flood and Water Management Bill 2009(?) and says IDB (Internal Drainage Boards), county and unitary local authorities have responsibility for giving consent for culverting "ordinary water courses" (eg not rivers, that's the EA?).

My understanding is that at some point you will need an application for a license under Section 184 of the Highways Act 1980. This is also known as a "dropped kerb" application. However its a bit more complicated when a ditch is involved. I found that Boston (Lincs?) had a guide here.. http://www.boston.gov.uk/PlanningDocs/BBC/B-18-0323/LCC crossing specification.pdf ..which mentions who you need to get permission from on the last page. Sorry but that doc appears to be images in a pdf so I can't cut and paste the relevant bit but it's only a few pages long. It also refers to "Typical layouts" and "Details of Designs" being available from the Highways office so it might be possible for you to get example drawings from your LA and use them to make your own drawings to submit with your license application.

When fixing joists to steel my builder insisted on filling in both sides of the web by shot nailing in some timber. Then used joist hangers with long tails. The tails were wrapped over the top of the steel and nailed into the timber infill on the back side. Where there were joists both sides they were staggered.

Our BCO checked that every separate bit of glass in our windows, some of which had 16 divided lights, had coated glass. He had a special meter to prod each pane with. He also went looking for kite marks on every pane of toughened glass. Some were so faint he marked them missing until I pointed them out to him. Our drain pressure test failed as we hadn't finished a bathroom. Had to tape a plastic bag over the end of a pipe and put water in a trap. There were loads of things he never checked or missed. Our wood burner was in place but not connected to the chimney as we were waiting for a register plate. No ratings plaque. Oil boiler not commissioned etc.

Looking at all the images it appears they may have built the wall upto the boundary, then filled in the 1" gap at your roof level, then built the overhang. Is that correct or is the brick wall itself 1" on your side? Edit: it's hard to see how the wall can be on your side if your roof overhung the boundary.

Neither roof should overhang the boundary without permission from the other side. So you both appear to be in the wrong. It makes no difference that yours was built first. Personally I wouldn't worry about it too much. If/when your roof needs replacing I would ask the neighbour if you can "cut some (lead?) flashing into their wall to ensure rain water won't penetrate their wall".

Could it mean Tyvek Reflex in the roof and a 2mm (0.2mm?) thick membrane in the walls?

Just for info, here is a side view of my A8 showing the electronics. The red PCB is the Arduino based controller, two little boards at the bottom left are the MOSFET upgrade boards to drive the bed and nozzle heaters. Click to enlarge.

That one looks similar to my Anet A8 except I think the frame on the CTC is wood (MDF?) rather than acrylic. Mine was around £104. I think they are all essentially copies/clones/variants/derivatives of the Prusa i3. I note CTC claim a print speed of 100mm/s. My A8 is specified at 60mm/s and I've run it at that and had no issues. I tried it at 120mm/s and had failures after 2-3 hours. Very annoying to get that far into a 5 hour print only to have it fail. I think 100mm/s might be ok but I haven't really run mine at that speed for long enough to be sure. It can depend on what you are printing. All these cheap Prusa i3 printer clones are quite crude. For example if the steppers start skipping they can crash the bed into the frame as there are no end stops only limit switches on one side to zero the bed. I don't know about the CTC version but some are known to be a fire risk unless you made upgrades by adding MOSFET boards to drive the heated bed and keep an eye on a few connectors. The heated bed draws a fair current. Another 3D worth looking at is the Creality Ender 3 which is around the £160-£180 mark. It's still a kit or partly assembled kit but already has a metal frame.