Temp

I ended up making my cables and put the connector in a small plastic box fixed under the eaves.

There are a bunch of rules limiting what you can do without needing planning permission. Best work through each one on this page to be sure it doesn't cause a problem.. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/17/extensions

See this thread.. https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showthread.php?t=5797650 Google found what looks like form AP1 here.. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/744253/AP1__2018-05-25_.pdf You should get a solicitor to help fill it in and will need plans of the site. I'm not sure if you can give yourself an easement? That's another possible issue. I would also speak to a mortgage broker. You might find remortgaging your current property is cheaper then a specialist self build mortgage. Make sure to check out all the fees, including for early redemption. When we purchased a buy to let in the 1980s it was cheaper to increase our mortgage on the house we lived in than take out a new one on the buy to let. Finally a reminder to make sure to get your self build CIL exemption paperwork done before you start any building work on site.

If building a brick outer, block inner cavity wall you usually arrange for both inner and outer to end up at same height at the dpc which is typically at least 150mm above ground. Bricks and blocks are different heights so some combinations achieve this and some dont (unless you cut blocks). Plan ahead and this determines the ideal height(s) to fill the trench to below dpc.

NHBC say 225mm cavity below dpc. Can be reduced to 150mm if there are weep holes.. http://nhbccampaigns.co.uk/landingpages/techzone/previous_versions/2011/Part5/section1/sitework.htm

For purposes of prolonging PP your work must be legal so you need to comply with any conditions that say "Before work starts on site..."in order for work to have "started" However for the purposes of the CIL exemption I would be much more careful... https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukdsi/2010/9780111492390 Commencement of development 7.—(1) This regulation has effect for determining when development is to be treated as commencing for the purposes of Part 11 of PA 2008. (2) Development is to be treated as commencing on the earliest date on which any material operation begins to be carried out on the relevant land. (3) Paragraph (2) is subject to the following provisions of this regulation. (4) Development is to be treated as commencing on the day planning permission is granted for that development if planning permission had previously been granted for that development for a limited period. (5) Development for which planning permission is— (a)granted under section 73A of TCPA (planning permission for development already carried out); or (b)granted or modified under section 177(1) of TCPA 1990 (grant or modification of planning permission on appeals against enforcement notices), is to be treated as commencing on the day planning permission for that development is granted or modified (as the case may be). (6) In this regulation “material operation” has the same meaning as in section 56(4) of TCPA 1990(16) (time when development begun). https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1990/8/section/56 (4)In subsection (2) “material operation” means— (a)any work of construction in the course of the erection of a building; F4[(aa)any work of demolition of a building;] (b)the digging of a trench which is to contain the foundations, or part of the foundations, of a building; (c)the laying of any underground main or pipe to the foundations, or part of the foundations, of a building or to any such trench as is mentioned in paragraph (b); (d)any operation in the course of laying out or constructing a road or part of a road; (e)any change in the use of any land which constitutes material development. ok so you can argue that a driveway is not a road and you can use a site for 28 days without needing PP for change of use, but do you want the agro if they get bloody minded? Would installing a dropped kerb be "driveway" or "road"?

PS In the UK the ASA typically prevent companies selling magnetic water treatment devices from claiming they make the water softer. See... https://www.asa.org.uk/advice-online/water-treatment-devices.html Selected quotes: The ASA and CAP understand that magnetic or electromagnetic conditioning devices are not capable of “softening” water and as such should not be claimed to be equivalent to water softeners (International Bathrooms WTS b.v., November 2010). Snip The ASA understands that no universally accepted theory about how these devices operate and no evidence to support the contention that the devices can inhibit scale formation generally exists.

Given they are £145 and probably cost less than £10 to make I would read all of this.. https://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/property/advice/9862512/Jeff-Howell-will-a-Hydroflow-stop-limescale.html

I think i wouls send a copy of the HMRC rejection to the complaints department at head office pointing out that HMRC don't consider it a valid VAT invoice and ask them to provide one. Google suggests its at : 19 Colonial Way, Watford WD24 4JL Per

If the door is too narrow what about the garage itself? Our architect also designed our single garage and after getting PP we worked out we could get the car in easily but wouldn't be able to get out of the car at all easily as the car door wouldn't open far enough. It was only a Ford Focus!

You can get 80mm PIR. Might even get a discount as you will be buying twice as much of one type.

I found the amendments to class Q here... http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2018/343/made I can't see where it limits the size of garden but perhaps I missed it or there is another amendment. I did note you have to finish the conversion within three years of getting prior approval. If you don't then you need planning permission and i guess your vat reclaim might be refused (work not lawful at time its carried out).

Just to be clear.. Class Q is permitted development for converting an agricultural building to a dwelling. It requires _some_ matters be prior approved by the planners. I'm not sure if approval of those matters alone also amounts to confirmation that the project meets all the other rules in the GPDO. For safety you should check those other rules have been met (or the seller has a certificate of lawfullness). http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2015/596/schedule/2/part/3/crossheading/class-q-agricultural-buildings-to-dwellinghouses/made 465 or 450sqm? The link above says 450sqm but perhaps its changed? The 450sqm rule applies to the area of the building or buildings changing use. So if part is beong converted to an integral/internal garage the yes it has to be included in the 450sqm calculation.

The must be a water trap somewhere but you don't need a separate u-bend if there is a water trap in the waste outlet/drain itself. Typically these are formed from concentric tubes that can be removed from above through the square top for cleaning. So have a look inside the waste outlet. If there really isn't one in the waste outlet I wouldn't add a u-bend. Better to find a waste outlet that does have a top access trap.

They say where they get that figure in the notes at the bottom... "Electricity:Based on an average of the 6 major electricity suppliers’ online prepayment, credit and direct debit tariffs, including standing charges and VAT, but not Economy 7. Data used are the Tariff Comparison Rates (TCR) provided on the 6 major energy suppliers’ website."

So its about right if you need all that doing. It is possible to flush UFH pipes yourself. Many manifolds have connection for hoses.

Its still quite hard to find energy cost comparison data but this site has been running for awhile and claims to take into account the efficiency of the system. For example they told me their figures for ASHP assume its connected to UFH. Perhaps Nextgen should submit their data and try and get a place in the table. https://nottenergy.com/resources/energy-cost-comparison/

Its clear from this page... http://nexgenheating.com/cost-comparison/ That the claims are based on the argument that radiant heaters provide equivalent comfort levels at lower air temperatures. That can be true but in my experience radiant heat is more directional than you think. So you feel warmer on the side facing the heater. Fine if all your walls are covered in heaters. Sit at a table and your legs get cold. I'll wait until a housing association rips out gas central heating from their homes and replaces it with heating films and the tenants rave over the reduced bills and improved comfort.

15 Years ago I brought an unbranded self propelled rotary mower with a Honda engine from a Belgian DIY shed. The deck is starting to rust through now but that Honda engine has been fantastic. I'd definitely go with another Honda powered rotary if I ever need to replace it. If you have an acre paddock to cut id get a biggish ride-on. For our paddock I hired a power scythe (also called an Allen Scythe) for the first cut but the hire shops seem to have stopped offering these (despite still listing them on their web site). For past 12 years I've used a Toro DH220 (19 or 21Hp i forget) ride on mower to cut it regularly. One acre takes about 80mins. Have to keep on top of it in the growing season because long wet grass clogs the grass chute making it take much longer. In theory the Toro can collect the grass or mulch it. Instead of mulching i find its best to removed the collection basket and just blow the grass out the back. It does a better job of cutting the grass that way. Being American the price of less frequently needed spare parts can be an issue. If its rough consider getting a local farmer to level it and reseed. That will make cutting a lot easier in the long term. Imagine driving down a bumpy road at 10mph in a car with no suspension for over an hour and you get the idea what it could be like. PS regular cutting seems to have killed off the ragwort that was in it. Think you have to control this by law.

Thanks I'll have a look at the suggestions. The render already has a slightly rough texture so I think a smooth paint is probably the way to go and will stick well. Low maintenance is key for me as I need a scaffolding tower to get to it safely.

And clad with something on the neighbours side of the steel?

YouTube recommended this video to me. Shows someone building a SIP house with SIP floor on interesting looking foundation "posts". Sorry its in Greek(?). Skip the first 10-12 mins unless you like looking at a pile of SIP panels.

Following the procedure in the Guide to The Party Wall act also covers your arse if the neighbour changes his mind.

Google for "A guide to the Party Wall Act". There is a government booklet by that name. In brief .. If building within 3 meters and your founds go below theirs the PWA applies and you need to follow the procedure in the guide. If building >3m but <6m you can go deeper than their founds but if you go below a 45 degree line detailed in the guide then the PWA will apply. If you are doing anything to an existing wall you need to find out if it is his wall or a party wall. If it's his wall you can't touch it without his agreement (regardless of the Party Wall Act). If it's a party wall you must follow the procedure in the guide. The exception would be where the work is minor such as fixing a shelf to a party wall. My understanding is that if you want to rely on a party wall for structural support (eg fix steels to it) then that is major enough that you need to follow the proceedure in the guide. If you need to follow the proceedure in the guide, and the neighbour is happy, you really only need to give him drawings and get him to sign a letter. If he's not happy then it gets messy and expensive as you need a PWA Surveyor (or even three). The details and example letters are in the guide.

We have a small cement rendered panel on our house that needs repainting. Can anyone recommend a make of paint for that?