Temp

Autodesk make both AutoCad and Fusion 360. Fusion 360 is free and can apparently import DXF files from AutoCAD and export STL. I'm really loving Fusion 360 but I've never used AutoCad so can't compare.

Ask the new one what format he wants the drawings in.

Hates: - Not enough insulation in the walls/roof. - Frameless shower leaks just enough water to create scale on the outside. - Travertine washbasin grows mould no matter how frequently its bleached/cleaned (will be replaced one day). - Planked Wood floor in the WC starts parallel to the wall but somehow ends up not parallel behind the WC. See it every time you pee. - Site slopes so there are steps on the paving around the house. A pain when moving a scaffolding tower around. - Rabbit and mole invasion from the church yard next door. Loves: - Overall design (staircase in dining hall, double height window) - The location. - Concrete 1st floor. - UFH in bathrooms - The MHRV system, fresh air and no condensation - Mains pressure, seriously high flow rate showers. - Rainwater collection tank. - LPG Hob (no mains gas in village). - Owls in the church yard next door.

Building regulations require a ventilated gap under a wood floor. Never heard it called a fire risk.

+1 The modem can provide info on the quality of the line. Things like the signal to noise ratio (or signal to noise margin). If the engineer that turns up knows about broadband perhaps ask him to show you how to access the modem admin page. The signal to noise ratio should be above 10db, over 20db would be good.

I'm not an iPhone user but when you turn wifi ON on the phone they usually list the wifi networks (SSIDs) and asks which you want to connect to. Does it list any you don't recognise? Especially in parts of the house where your problem is worse?

Another idea to consider if everything else fails and you are considering replacing the cable... A CAT 6 UTP cable normally has 4 pairs in it. 2 pairs are used by the stat leaving 2 pairs (4 wires) unused. You could try connecting all the unused wires to ground at the hub end. Grounding the unused wires wouldn't be as effective as using screened cable with the screens grounded but might be worth a trying. Its a bit messy if the hub end uses proper network connectors. I'm thinking you would need to cut the connector from the wire, split out the unused wires to form tails, trim and replace the cores the stat uses into a new connector, crimp, strip insulation from the tails, crimp/solder on a ring tag, fix ring tag to ground on the hub. Something like that anyway.

Yes. The idea of the capacitor is to ensure any noise is coupled into both the +ve and -ve line equally. If both +ve and -ve are hit with the same value spike the difference between them stays the same (12V).

A property with a 999 year lease is normally worth virtually the same as a freehold property. So if he gives you a 999 year lease he is essentially giving you near the full value of the land. I'm pretty sure that's the way HMRC would see it. Its certainly the way mortgage companies normally see it. If you look at the typical cost of buying the freehold of a flat with a 999 year lease its <£5,000. I don't see any advantage of him doing this on a leasehold basis. Edit: The recent scandal about builders selling houses leasehold is due to the T&Cs they put in the lease about ground rent. Some of them double every 10 years.

In a past life as a project manager in the electronics industry I had issues with management wanting plastic mouldings and printed labels to match for colour. Nightmare. Slight differences in the texture of the surface would change how the colour of one or other looked. Usually we would try and and steer management away from trying to achieve colour matches whenever possible. The colour and smoothness of the primer may also make a difference.

I purchased a Sthil KM131 power head after discovering the Ryobi Expand-It tools I already had either fitted or can be made to fit. It's a rather expensive monster but it's been fantastic. If you need a powerful motor this is probably the one to go for. If not then there are smaller and lighter weight motors around. I've since added the Sthil hedge trimmer attachment. Only issue with Sthil is they don't like dealers doing internet orders.

The O-rings make some of our covers very tight. You can buy proper Plumbers Lube from places like Toolstation but liquid soap or shampoo should also work.

50 funny SSIDs. All made up I expect.. https://www.buyvia.com/blog/50-funny-wi-fi-network-names/ It Burns When IP I’m Under Your Bed Pretty Fly for a Wi-Fi FBI Surveillance Van #119871 DEA Surveillance #4188A87 I’m In Your Closet I’m Watching You Now Skynet Global Defense Network Let Me Out Of Your Router Undercover Police Car #751 I’m Cheating on my WiFi InterTubes Mom - Click Here for Internet The Promised LAN Because a LANnister Never Forgets Occam’s Router New England Clam Router Keep it on the Download Please Click For Identity Theft Network Not Found Bill Clinternet I Can Haz Wireless? Drop it Like a Hotspot Router? I Hardly Knew Her Viruses Are Us NotTheDroidsYourLookingFor NoFreeInternetHereKeepLooking Call Me Maybe Hidden Network IP Freely No Internet Access NSA Net Secure Get Off My LAN The LAN Before Time Untrusted Network Virus Detected! Do Not Join Malware Repository Access Denied Uncle_Touchys_Game_Room C:\Virus.exe No Wi-Fi For You My Neighbors Suck! Abraham Linksys IP-UP YerBabyIsReallyUgly John Wilkes Bluetooth Slow WiFi Optimus Prime WamBamThankYouLan TellMyWiFiLoveHer

Google can find you a retrospective warranty but I suspect they will be more expensive. Sometimes they are called Latent Defect Insurance. Some might cover you for 10 years from the policy date. Others for what's left of the usual 10 year period... Just first few links that came up.. https://i-c-w.co.uk/products/residential "Our standard residential warranty, also known as Latent Defect Insurance, is a 10-year policy for new builds, renovations and retrospective cover." https://granitebw.co.uk/completed-housing-warranty/ "Key features of a Completed Housing Warranty that we would find for you include: Retrospective warranty for the balance of 10 years from building regulations sign off"

I'm out of date with the costs. Opinions differ on the value of a structural warranty. All I can say is that I know someone who's roof tiles turned out to be faulty and they had severe frost spalling within the 10 year warranty period. Supplier and manufacturer had gone bust. I believe there warranty company may have paid out. Some mortgage lenders will accept an Architect Certificate but read this.. https://www.lexology.com/library/detail.aspx?g=3840e1dc-43f8-4d57-863a-a45e73281625 An architects certificate basically gives mortgage companies confidence that your house wont fall down. eg It was designed by an architect therefore it must be reasonably ok. It's not an insurance policy that pays out if there is a problem.

That doesn't really prove the WiFi signal is good. Its like saying it works when it works. You really need to find out what the phone thinks the WiFi signal strength is when/where its not working, eg when its defaulted back to 4g.

I'd try and find a free WiFi analyser app for iPhone. They will tell you if it's a signal strength issue.

I wouldn't expect the resistance to make a difference in this case but I guess they are cheap enough to try.

The only other thing I can suggest is trying to modify a stat to put a switch in series with the backlight but they may use multiple LED to illuminate the buttons - so working out where to add a switch might not be easy. Running the specified screened cable might work but if you did that and it still happened I wouldn't be totally surprised. At least you could complain to Heatmiser. I think the manual said version 2 of the stat has a proximity sensor. So perhaps Heatmiser could give you a version 1 without proximity sensor?

That snubber is a 100nf capacitor. Edit: Actually its a 100nf capacitor and 100R resistor but the capacitor is the main thing.

Is your BT modem/wifi hub in that cabinet? It's not a great idea to put a device that uses radio in a metal box as it blocks the signal. Have you recently put the cabinet door on?

I use an android app called WiFi Analyzer on my phone. It shows you the signal strength and details of other base stations that might be interfering. Could be the neighbours just set up wifi on the same channel. For reference: Three meters from my base station it reports a signal strength of about -50dBm. A base station the other end of the house is down to around -80 dBm. and speed is affected. I also use www.fast.com as a quick check of my internet speed. It just takes a few seconds to run a test. Currently I'm getting 33 Mbps over broadband and my house wifi to an old phone. Aside: BT use your hub to provide wifi to other BT customers but I would hope this doesn't cause performance issues. https://www.btwifi.co.uk/find/uk/

That would be my choice. Find a 4-5 day slot in the 10 day weather forecast and get the lot done right.

So a total of 175mm? The outside surface of the insulation is cold, the inside warm. In between these two places the temperature transitions between warm and cold. The definition of a "warm roof" construction is that the joists (or rafters) are located near enough to the warm side that condensation doesn't occur on them. If all of the insulation is above the joists then clearly the joists are on the warm side. Your proposal has part of the joist 75mm from the cold outside and 100mm from the warm side. So its actually nearer the cold side than the warm side which isn't good. Ideally you should get a proper condensation risk analysis done. Some insulation suppliers may do one for you.

The list for Outline Planning with all matters reserved seems simple enough. Are you talking about what needs to go in the Design and Access Statement?