Temp

You can soften PLA in a cup of hot tea :-) For Halloween I printed some stencils flat (1.5mm thick) and then dipped them in hot water to make them soft and formed them over the pumpkin we were going to carve. Few seconds later they set up to match the shape of the pumpkin.

Festool make one (edit well ok they badge one). https://www.amazon.co.uk/Festool-Folding-Rule/dp/B0058HUKXM/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Wood+folding+ruler&qid=1577619881&sr=8-5 Not tried it but reviews are good.

I didn't notice the recess. If you print vertically it might need supports enabled "everywhere" to support the top edge of the recess. Either that or change the design so the top of the recess is at say 45 degrees rather than a horizontal overhang.

+1 A planning application has to be accompanied by a certificate stating you are either the owner or the owners agent or have notified the owner. You could try arguing that getting planning permission will cost £10k and the plot is worth £10k as agricultural land so both of you are putting 50% into the deal. Then point out you are taking all the risk. If planning is refused you loose £10k but he keeps the land. Therefore a 50:50 in the profit is actually generous. You will pay half the value of the plot with PP. Use your own numbers. Find out what its worth as agricultural land. Any contract you agree needs to be carefully worded to give you the right to buy at a price but not the obligation to buy. It must also oblige him to support your planning application and not take any action that might cause refusal. Try and find a solicitor that has done business contracts not just conveyancing. You don't want him changing his mind after you get PP or selling to a third party

Perhaps not what you mean but.. Standard lighting wiring doesn't provide a neutral at light switches (the blue wire is used as switched live). You might consider running three core + earth down to switches so a neutral can be provided. This might allow a wider variety of smart devices to be fitted in the switch box.

Cooling fan enabled? Try printing it horizontally with supports. Should be stronger that way as well.

Yes the blue mixer sets the floor temperature, the grey stat is a safety backup in case the blue mixer fails - at least that's how mine works.

Never heard that and we didn't. We had a site survey done which included about 20 spot heights (above sea level I think). Ultimately right or wrong is determined by what is specified in your planning drawings. However if these are vague you are probably ok. If it is not possible to identify either the ground level or finished height from the drawings then i can't see how the council can take enforcement action. How much does the ground slope? Not directly relevant but... In the rules on permitted development (eg for extensions and outbuildings) max heights are measured from the highest ground adjacent to the building.

If so this may be of use... https://www.gov.uk/hmrc-internal-manuals/vat-construction/vconst24550 Thanks Google :-)

As for proof you may need a letter from the previous owner.

There is more you need to check out... https://www.gov.uk/hmrc-internal-manuals/vat-construction/vconst24200#IDA5F1GH

The grey thing you marked "Some kind of thermostat" is just that. Its intended to limit the max floor temperature to avoid damaging some floor coverings or burning feet. Check its not set too low or the pump won't run. Somewhere around 45-55C should be OK.

I would say not or at the very least there is a risk they could be refused. The receipts would be dated before you could legally build a qualifying dwelling. The existing PP can't be started due to conditions and the new one hasn't been granted yet. In one case the self builder got PP to build a granny annex or holiday let but the planners added a condition that said it could not be sold off separately to the main house. That condition made it ineligible for zero rating. Halfway through the build he got the condition removed making it eligible for the VAT reclaim. However HMRC rejected all receipts dated before the condition was removed. +1 on what @nod said about the CIL.. If your council has the CIL you should be exempt as a self builder. However its essential to follow the claims procedure to the letter and keep evidence the council received all necessary documents. Starting work before that's been done can loose you the exemption.

If you change the glass look at low iron Optiwhite glass. I guess it might be possible to find RGB LEDs and knoble the green ones a bit?

Ours is enamled steel under mounted. Never again. Enamel stains and the sealer goes mouldy and is impossible to replace without removing granite worktop. Oh and it's too small.

The verge and pavement are usually part of the highway so you have a ROW over them. Think the issue must be traffic regulations rather than ROW. Edit: link @Onoff posted refers to highway act

Did you try a known good stat on the suspect location? Perhaps no power to that stat position? Caution some Heatmiser stats are 12V and some 230V. See if there are model numbers on the back. Google and download the manual which have wiring diagrams. Check which pins should have power on them.

https://www.myjobquote.co.uk/costs/dropping-a-kerb Says average cost is £600. And here £700... https://www.tameside.gov.uk/kerbdropping#cost

+1 If it will be a separate dwelling does your planning permission allow it to be sold off or separately?.. https://www.gov.uk/vat-builders/new-homes "For work to be zero-rated for VAT, it must qualify as a genuinely new, self-contained house or flat. This means: it’s self-contained - there are not any internal doors or connections to other houses or flats it can be used independently of any other property, including businesses it can be sold on its own it has proper planning permission any existing buildings on the site have been demolished completely to ground level (unless you’re extending an existing building to create a new house or flat) Example A ‘granny flat’ or annexe you’re building as an addition to an existing house cannot be used or sold separately to the main house. This means you must charge VAT at the standard rate of 20%."

+1 I use magnets to hold access panels in bathrooms in place (sort needed to access valves or PRV). They don't carry the weight they just stop the panel falling out/off. Work very well

Has it been empty more than 2 years? If so you can get any work done by a vat registered builder at 5%. But work must start before you move in. If you move in first it won't have been empty for two years before work starts so won't qualify. There is no reclaim scheme so has to be a vat registered builder.

I've never seen any come out of ours in 13 years. Wasy your house still drying out the first winter?

Thanks for the ideas. For cost reasons I think I'm leaning towards laminating from thin ply around a former.

That sounds very much like a "piped ditch". Commonly done when rural roads were widened. Where does it run to? We only had an issue with rainwater and proposed a rainwater recycling tank with overflow into the piped ditch that runs under the edge of the road in front of our house. This was allowed. The rainwater tank is only used for watering the garden and washing the car so its always full. They didn't insist on storm attenuation so the end result is similar to a straight discharge. If there is space you might consider proposing a treatment plant discharging to small soakaway with overflow to this piped ditch? They might be more willing to accept that than a direct discharge?

If you send the manufacturer your construction drawings they will come up with a beam layout for you. If you have any big rooms it may be necessary to put a dwarf wall or steel (if it's a B&B first floor or you have a basement) to reduce the length of the concrete beams needed. If a steel is needed you might need an SE to spec that and any padstones. Ours wanted us to use denser blocked in a few places.