Temp

That dog looks guilty already.

Generally yes but there are some exceptions (think it's different in London or for planning applications determined at county rather than district level?). I tried to check that and found web pages saying Mid Devon had submitted proposals for the CIL in 2017 but couldn't confirm if it was ever formally adopted. Regarding extensions.. If you are extending your main house and the floor area of the extension is less than 100sqm and it doesn't create a new dwelling, then I believe it's exempt under the "minor development exemption". Just be careful if you plan to sell or let it within three years... https://www.gov.uk/guidance/community-infrastructure-levy#para048 If it's more than 100sqm you may qualify for the self build exemption but I think that has to be claimed using form 9 (eg it's not granted automatically) and the claim process followed to the letter. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/community-infrastructure-levy#para049

This page summarises what's been said above.. https://job-prices.co.uk/waste-pipe-dimensions/

No idea if it would work outside. I think the principle is either... * condensation needs dust to form on so clean glass is less likely to attract condensation? Or * It causes the droplets to clump together and run off?

I would suggest it's not possible to produce a simple guide! In some cases the actual diameter of a pipe is manufacture specific. So for example 50mm waste pipe isn't 50mm in diameter, it's exact size sometimes depends on the make and if it's push fit or solvent weld. For that reason size conversion charts should only be used to get you in the right ball park. Stick to one make and keep receipts is best advice I can give.

You need drawings for Full Building Control Approval route but not for the Building Notice route (or at least not so many). Which route you should take probably depends on how experienced you are and the complexity of the design. An experienced builder can risk going down the Building Notice route. First time self builders managing it all themselves probably safer to go full building control approval.

I wonder if washing the outside with dish washing liquid would help? Bit like the trick divers use to keep face mask free of condensation.

Found some info here.. https://www2.gov.scot/resource/buildingstandards/2017Domestic/chunks/ch08s02.html

My reading of para 4 is that the SS can grant a wayleave for an underground cable but not for one on or above ground. If they have applied to the SS for a wayleave for an above ground cable I think I would write to the SS pointing out this paragraph precludes him granting one. Cite any reference number the company gives in their application and your planning reference.

I wonder if it would be possible to charge them rent after the notice period?

We have a European style post box on the garage wall. No letterbox at all. https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=Letter+box&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

Someone suggested others here. Not checked by me. https://community.screwfix.com/threads/30-degree-pitch-roof-and-clay-tiles.186024/

Ah ok it's an extension. I believe the exemption process is slightly different for extensions.

I believe for our Grant the instructions say the return must be >40C and <55C at all times. They recommended a mixer is used to ensure the return isn't too cold during startup as too cold apparently causes corrosion. On the other hand the boiler and load must be correctly sized or the return will be too hot preventing it operating in condensing mode or even cause short cycling. That 15C window might be wider on boilers with Stainless Steel heat exchangers? We struggled a bit to get it in the window. Had to fit smaller jets to reduce the power but the manual says that improves efficiency compared to standard jets. It started life as a 40kW feeding a 300L thermal store.

Do not rely on that. Council's have been known to send out letters saying you qualify for an exemption, without adding "if you follow the claim process". Request copies from the architect and confirm they were received by the council. Don't forget Form 7 part 2 that must be done after completion. If you haven't finished yet your architect can't have done it.

https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200136/policy_and_legislation/70/community_infrastructure_levy/5 Near the top of Form 7 it details the four step process needed to qualify and claim the self build exemption. Make sure you follow it to the letter. Make sure any forms you send in actually arrive at the council. Get proof. One letter lost in the post can cause you to loose the exemption making you liable for £thousands with no way out. Everything must be on the correct form. For example the commencement notice - you cannot just notify the council by email of the date you intend to start, it must be on form 6 and it must arrive at the council before starting work... or else!

Think that's exactly right. You need a rad that's capable of 2.5kW at 60C because it will only emit 813W at typical ASHP flow temperatures.

+1 If it couldn't be separately occupied it wouldn't count as a new house so it wouldn't be zero rated. Aside: If you have a Tree planting condition that required you to agree a landscaping plan you can reclaim the VAT on the trees as well.

Opinions vary. I believe it needs to be higher than the spillover of the lowest appliance so it doesn't reduce flood resistance of the property. However some say it must be higher than the spillover for the highest appliance for the same reason! That doesn't make sense to me. There are also "Type A" AAV that can be installed below the spill over level. Think they are rated for higher back pressures to keep water out in event of a flood.

Would a well done butt joint be very visible? Think I'd much rather have a joint than silicon sealant.

Sounds a bit expensive just to split it into two circuits. Does it need a fancy computer to control the ASHP temperature or something?

We have an old WD My Book. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Digital_My_Book Works but perhaps a bit too basic for some.

Not sure what the BCO will want. We used large radius rest bends. Google just found this which looks like it has a radius in between a standard bend and a rest bend. Seems cheap as well... https://www.speedy-plastics.co.uk/shop/underground-drainage/110mm-underground-drainage/90d-double-socket-swept-bend/

Is spray foam cheaper than rigid foam sheets with same U value?

Thinking aloud... With a standard shower trap the pipework allows the trap to move vertically slightly when the tray is fitted and connected up. With a vertical outlet trap the height might be too rigidly fixed? Not a problem for a wet room but not sure how it would work for a tray that is bedded on mortar of unknown thickness. Sorry if I haven't explained that we'll.