Temp

How about a shallow linear drain. https://www.tradepipes.co.uk/tile-inset-shower-drain-700mm-long?source=googlebase&kw=&ci=372537392619&network=g&pm=&cid=2071437724&aid=75393070286&tid=pla-789654006446&dev=t&mt=&lim=&lpm=1006818&pos=1o18&dm=&fid=&mid=137997912&pid=2299&country=GB&source=google&gclid=Cj0KCQiA9orxBRD0ARIsAK9JDxR215cq_EPhR2TIIFm4ugBTk-R6z_LNrE3zB1VI3rujCEK4nDABhl8aAgDFEALw_wcB Appears to be just min 54mm below bottom of wetroom tray. Not sure which trays it fits?

Prowarm do a 20mm wet room shower tray. If I've understood correctly the trap is 79mm deep making 99mm. https://www.theunderfloorheatingstore.com/prowarm-20mm-centre-drain?utm_source=google_shopping&m=configurable_scp&gclid=Cj0KCQiA9orxBRD0ARIsAK9JDxTrp4Elg_1iAWA_6x7H6tyN-ntFDqEQuIys3KWok6vnAASCbGbAhlMaAtsMEALw_wcB#manuals-and-information But largest is 90*90cm.

There are also some steel shower trays you can let into a floor and these raise the waste because they are thinner than stone resin trays.

https://mcalpineplumbing.com/traps/shower-traps-accessories/st90cp10-70c-90mm-shallow-shower-trap There are versions with chrome plated brass cap, chrome plated plastic or white plastic.

How about this... You have 100mm slab and say 12mm for tiles and adhesive making 112mm usable without digging into the EPS. Nearest I can get is a 35mm shower tray with a 75mm McAlpine trap making 110mm. However could/should set the tray 5mm higher than the floor so the door seal doesn't scrape making 105mm in the floor. 105mm < 112mm so it fit with height to spare. You could even consider a 45mm tray.. 45+75-5=115mm. Example Ideal Standard Simplicity. I think the McAlpine trap is rated for 34L/min. It comes with a 45degree bend but you can replace that with a straight connector to help flow rates?

I'd be concerned about water pouring through the gap between house and glass?

This place appears to have 120mm... https://www.thesolidwoodflooringcompany.com/collections/band-sawn-finished-wood-flooring Perhaps call and ask if they can get smaller. Some places refer to "micro bevel".

On Radio 4 today there was a story about Lego clubs where adults can go to de-stress. At the end of the piece the presenter asked the organiser of said clubs if there was anything else similar coming along and he said "possibly something to do with 3D printing".

Actually that last link might be out of date. It seems the government might have removed the ability to appeal s106 affordable housing obligations some years back.. https://www.clarkewillmott.com/news/last-chance-to-challenge-section-106/

That sucks. First task is to work out if the project still makes financial sense. For example if the finished house would be worth £400k on the open market then you could only sell it for 80% = £320k. Will it cost you more than £320 to build including land? Run you own numbers remembering to add a contingency. What does your mortgage company say? I mean they typically lend a fixed percentage of the finished value, but your finished value just dropped to 80%. Will they still lend you enough? Will they lend at all? Some council's want builders to pay cash to the council instead of restricting future sale price of the house. That might be a better option for you depending on the amount and if you can persuade the council to accept it. This might be of interest if your house is going to be expensive even after the S106 condition is applied.. https://www.owendevenport.co.uk/index.php/planning-appeals-case/318-section-106-affordable-housing-restriction-removed-at-appeal

There is only one thing worse than catching your parents making Tea. It's catching one of your parents making Tea.

Just moved in? Has the heating been off for awhile? I wonder if it's full of sludge that has settled out while it was off? We had that problem in the house we rented. Should be down to landlord or his agent to fix. Ours arranged an engineer to call but all he did was get the sludge stirred up so it would circulate. I suggested to the landlord he should consider getting it drained and inhibitor put in but got no reply.

2015 is more than 3 years ago. Have you started building to keep your PP alive?

What stage are you at and what have you hired the Architect to do? Have you hired the Architect to get Building Control Approval for you or just some produce drawings that can be used to get Building Control Approval? In other words who is managing the process of getting Building Control Approval? Typically if you hire the Architect to "get Building Control Approval" he may suggest you hire an SE or other professional to help BUT it should be his responsibility to find them and manage the process. Pretty sure most architects can put together a drainage plan for Building Control even if your builder decides later it can be done a better way.

Typically the architect will design the shape of the roof with some thought on how it will be constructed. Then if necessary the SE will design any steel beams needed. For example a house with rooms in the roof may need a structural ridge beam instead of just a ridge board.

Most water companies try and keep foul and surface water separate. Looks like Thames are heading that way... https://www.thames21.org.uk/combined-sewer-systems/ So you might not be allowed to connect you surface water tank overflow to the foul sewer. If that's the case you will have to look at soakaways or perhaps find a surface water drain/ditch to discharge into. If you are allowed to put surface water into the foul sewer I can't see why one pump can't do both. It would probably have to be sized for the higher flow rate of the surface water.

We have 80mm PIR in our floor and if building again would fit more, perhaps double. In fact I might consider double Building Regs minimum everywhere.

I don't think I would pay for a survey yet. I think if you still have issues I'd call Upnor and see if they can recommend an engineer to check the system over. Perhaps someone in one of the other flats can recommend one? Regarding the heating up time.. let's suppose all the room stats have been turned down low for 8 hours so the house is cold. Then you turn one up to 22C... The blue Upnor loop actuator will take a few mins to open and within about 10min the flow pipe to the floor loop should be as hot as the output from the white mixer/actuator (35-45C). The floor and room temperature might take a further 2 hours to reach the temperature set on the room stat and then stat will close the blue actuator. What the floor feels like will depend on the temperature the white actuator produces but the floor should never feel as hot as a rad which can be 60C. What we do is set the room stats to 16C at night. That's effectively off except on very cold nights. Then two hours before waking up its set to increase to 20 or 21C which it reaches as we are waking up. Then again in the evening it switches down to 16C about 2 hours before bed (but it stays warmer than that).

Some details of Upnor system found here.. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.uponor.co.uk/UponorInternet/DirectDownload%3Fdid%3DFB33D8E3EE2B446C843445EAB8072E5C&ved=2ahUKEwjB-5eK84bnAhWoQkEAHYIDBaAQFjAAegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw2qah0XpriH13eszIJcs9Kg Should link to a pdf file. See page 49 for info on the mixer & white actuator. The white actuator should indeed move the pin up and down. With the white part removed the pin should be up, with it fitted and off the pin should be down. The hexagonal part is turned to set the max an min temperatures after installation. It's not 100% clear from the instructions if pin down = off or minimum temperature. I'm wondering if the pin is stuck down giving you minimum temperature which the instructions says is normally 35C? That would explain why the engineer couldn't push it down himself (it's already down). You could try pulling it up. I think I would try finding someone familiar with Upnor UFH systems and get them to check the system over.

Sorry I have a hard time keeping up with everyone's projects.. Have you started work? If not I suspect you need to get this sorted before you do. I guess you don't qualify for the self build exemption? What does the Architect propose to do about his mistake? I'm thinking you might end up claiming against him or his insurance company for his error. Might be best to get legal advice before you try and resolve it yourself?

Yikes. The legislation allows you to request a review in writing (with justification) within 28 days of the liability notice being issued but before work starts. https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukdsi/2010/9780111492390/regulation/113 Council web sites imply this is if the council makes an error but I do not see that limitation in the legislation so I would go for it. If still wrong you can appeal to the VOA but must wait for the result from the VOA before starting work or your appeal fails. Only other thing I can think of is to submit a new planning application.

If it's the "slide potentiometer" that's failed I'd try and get it out as it might be replaceable. Hard to tell from the photo if it just clips out. If that's not possible try working out if min or max resistance corresponds to max speed. eg shorting the two wires together may put it in the max speed position permanently. If there is any writing on it that may give you the resistance allowing you to replace it with a fixed value for permanent half speed.

I'm looking at a new WC pan and seat. Pan is cheap enough but surprised how much the different versions of the seat costs. All same make and intended for the pan... Standard seat with plastic hinges is £18 with metal hinges £37 with soft close hinges £62 (up to £104 list from Travis Perkins!) Am I nuts to pay £62 for a seat with soft close hinges?

I don't think there will be any duties to pay during the transitional period (2020). If we don't make a trade deal by end 2020 we revert to WTO rates of duty which on wash basins and similar imports from the EU will be 7% for Ceramic and 6.5% for plastic. So perhaps a different rate for your WC and bath :-) VAT appears to be more of a problem. After Brexit EU based companies have a choice. They can register with the HMRC and start charging UK VAT. This provides a seamless experience for UK customers and is presumably what Amazon will do. An alternative is for them export VAT free and the buyer will be charged UK VAT when the goods arrive at the port. No doubt there will be a handling charge as well and just imagine the hassle of reclaiming VAT you have paid if something has to be sent back because it was damaged in transit. You not only have to chase the supplier but HMRC as well :-) Either way its all bad news for small EU based companies and I can understand why they might just write off the UK market.

Oops I forgot to welcome you to the forum!