Temp

So he wants to retain the ball joint to do a 45 degree bend? I guess that would work. Yes I think the shower head is probably 3/4" so the first link should be ok. Might need a washer. The Second link has water fed in via the hose - having a loop of hose hanging down would be odd. I wondered if you could use something like this.... https://www.amazon.co.uk/GROHE-28389000-Sena-Adapter-Silver/dp/B000KQDXV2/ref=asc_df_B000KQDXV2/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=232056160750&hvpos=1o8&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1182986788737086570&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006818&hvtargid=pla-419358375020&psc=1&th=1&psc=1 to turn the pipe horizontal instead of the existing ball joint. How much of the 1/2" fitting can you see? ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFZWkRaVlhHSktZM1EmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA4MTE2NjMxN1VBMFJPRVQzMklDJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyMTQ1MTYxWU9FNTA4Q1BJT1M1JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ Then add one of these or similar... https://www.amazon.co.uk/FERIDRAS-Hydra-Shower-Plastic-Chrome/dp/B00I5QWNII/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=Fixed+shower+head+arm&qid=1576286926&s=diy&sr=1-14

I think I would still write to your MP and explain the situation. As him/her to pass it on to the relevant department. I understand there were plans to review the CIL legislation.

Not allowed according to.. https://www.fbcmb.co.uk/media-centre/news/article/6168/cil-and-the-self-build-exemption "There is then a claw back period of three years. If, within that period, a disqualifying event occurs then the exemption is lost and the payment of the normal CIL has to be made, plus a surcharge. The events include ceasing to occupy as the sole or main residence; failure to comply with the evidential requirements; letting out the building; selling it. As a result it is vital that before the self build arrangement is set up, legal advice is taken as to the timing of any alteration in the title to the land, such as leases or family transfers."

Just to add that for our kitchen floor, which is stone, we were recommended to use an Alkaline cleaner on the grout. No particular brand. You can also get special linear brushes that make it easier to clean floor grout.

Buy one first? You get 7 days to return it.

I'd try neat liquid bleach first. <£1 from Tesco etc. Works best on dry surfaces and left overnight.

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Yes of course they do. Perhaps rewire one of these so the neon is always on.... https://www.google.com/search?q=light+switch+with+neon+indicator&oq=light+switch+with+neon&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l3.10671j0j8&client=tablet-android-pega&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#scso=_lIzxXa7wDsif1fAP0vqCgAc64:0.5.5.5&sbfbu=0&pi=light switch with neon indicator

Someone just make a switch with a neon built in?

I had a look at the policy wording here and couldn't see any mention of building control approval but they don't cover contents where... "Loss or damage caused by building work which involves alterations, renovations, extensions or repairs." https://www.aviva.co.uk/insurance/home-products/buildings-insurance/?source=GP7A&entry=117165&cmp=ppc-hom-prd-goo-Bui_Main_Phr&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=CjwKCAiAxMLvBRBNEiwAKhr-nPl02vGiyPT4QWotsJGXnr3o25JzXmxW2nPqxdds4Bp8pK24IrQWhhoCPvkQAvD_BwE Policy wording.. https://www.aviva.co.uk/content/dam/aviva-public/gb/pdfs/personal/insurance/home/home-insurance/home_insurance_policy_wording_insurance_home_nhdhg6080_v35_012017_140617.pdf There must be thousands of properties with extensions that were built without building control approval.

I hesitate to post this as you probably need to be gas Safe registered to work on a boiler. Refurbished Main PCBs appear to be £35 or £60 depending on ??? on eBay. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F332386761691 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F332386777784 Not sure what difference there is.

And there is a 12V version of the Heatmiser Neostat V2 so you do need to check which model you have.. https://www.heatmisershop.co.uk/heatmiser-neostat-12v-v2-programmable-thermostat/?gclid=CjwKCAiAob3vBRAUEiwAIbs5Tn-Te3MoMzR2y6z_2M3buhzhlOTLZfSWAQc0voIdEAtiZSmLUu5c9BoCNoQQAvD_BwE

Manual here... https://www.heatmisershop.co.uk/heatmiser-neostat-v2-programmable-thermostat/ .suggests you need 3 core for a switched live system and 4 core cable if it's going to be a "volt free" system. See Page 29 and 30. They also have a "Neohub" if you want to control it with an App.

Perhaps go for a dual fuel set up. Electric oven with a gas hob on top. https://www.google.com/search?q=60cm+dual+fuel+cooker&oq=60cm+dual&aqs=chrome.0.0j69i57j0l2.5777j0j8&client=tablet-android-pega&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#scso=_PvXvXYOdLqaU1fAP_emMmA474:0.5

Are you happy working on live electrics? The manual here.. https://www.plumbase.co.uk/documents/product/3548621 Has likely wiring diagram bottom of page 21. I would have a look at the voltage on Switched Live (SL) with respect to N. Think that should be 240V whenever the stats (DHW or CH) are calling for heat. See if it's live when it should be. If not then the problem is in the wiring rather than the boiler. On some systems the signal from the stat moves the diverter valve and switch contacts on diverter turns on the boiler when the valve has moved to the required position. So there could be a short delay between a stat calling for heat and SL going live if the signal is routed through contacts on the diverter. These contacts on the diverter are a common source of problems especially if the valve weeps. If the diverter moves but SL never goes live that would be a good place to look. On an old system I once had the switch contacts could be removed and inspected/cleaned but better to replace them. Make sure system power is off before working on these. I like to remove the fuse. If SL is live when expected and the boiler still isn't firing up then problem is in the boiler.

+1 to the level or straight edge. I think 14mm deep hollows are way beyond what you can fix with a tile levelling system though. You would need massive notches on the trowel. If the notch ratio is 50:50 they would need to be 28mm deeper than used elsewhere. That way when squashed down to 14mm you get close to 100% coverage. https://www.rubi.com/en/blog/how-to-choose-the-right-tile-trowel-size-step-by-step/ Floor must be reasonably flat first.

At least four possibilities... 1) A potential buyer got the report done as part of his due diligence checks. 2) The applicant anticipated an objection on the ground of surface water so got the report done and submitted it with an application at some stage. 3) It was requested during discussions with the planners prior to an application. 4) It was requested to satisfy a planning condition. If you haven't already done so ask the planners to see all planning files relating to the site. We found there were at least three sets of documents for our site (in England)... * The online documents. * The official planning file which was virtually identical to the online version. * The planning officers own file that had documents such as correspondence with previous owners. There were also documents filed under different references..eg "Land north of..." and "Land south of...". When I asked to see the planning file for "Land north of.." I wasn't also given the file for "Land south of.." Once I discovered multiple files existed I was able to make an appointment to see them. Not sure if that's still possible or you can only see the online files these days.

Some Heatmiser stats are 12v and/or use network cable. I've not checked your one.

Not sure a CU that low down is allowed now? Part M?

While its still in the hands of the executor there are a few legal issues to be aware of.. The executor has a duty to realise the most he can from the sale property for all the beneficiaries. If he thinks he could get more by putting it on the open market or auctioning it off he probably should. On the other hand selling to a family member at market value might reduce costs (no estate agents fees?) and increase the amount each beneficiary receives so that would be ok. If the uncle is executor, beneficiary and potential buyer he probably needs to be squeaky clean in case another beneficiary gets upset later. The tax man is also fussy about the value of property. They will accept valuations from estate agents BUT if the property eventually sells for more or less than the valuation they expect/allow the executor to revise the figures used for probate and pay or reclaim any extra IHT. The fact that it has "development potential" may increase the valuation that estate agents put on the property increasing IHT if applicable. That said, I don't believe the executor is obliged to actually develop the property in any way - just get the maximum he can for it "as is". Once the property has been sold by the executor any further development wouldn't be subject to these issues.

Ours is an Eaton Metalclad. I think their website is poor. http://www.eaton.uk.com/EatonUK/ProductsSolutions/Electrical/ProductsServices/ResidentialLight-Commercial/Memera/Metalcladconsumerunits/index.htm All metal range. http://www.eaton.uk.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eatonuk/@elec/documents/content/pct_565624.pdf

This BT forum has some replies from tech staff. Might be the place to ask about the droop. https://community.bt.com/t5/Landline/bd-p/Faults

I would try and get it sorted now because adding/moving a pole later can be expensive. https://www.openreach.com/help-and-support/obtaining-wayleaves Tell them about the boat you need to work on? As a last resort offer to pay for the extra pole? Think that would be around £1k?

Ouch.

Ideally measure a bath in show room. Sometimes the dimensions aren't very accurate at all. Sorry if this is sucking eggs time but... rigidity of mounting makes any sealer last a lot longer. eg beef up the floor if its chipboard, build a decent frame/fix batten to wall to support edges etc.