Temp

The paving expert website also has a lot on drainage... http://www.pavingexpert.com/ http://www.pavingexpert.com/drain03.htm#french

Scroll down this site. The tech data says max 6m x 3m. https://supersealedunits.co.uk/product-line/sealed-units/#toggle-id-2 One problem I cansee might be the glass or seals breaking under its own weight if not handled correctly. For example you can't just pick it up by the short ends. It may have to be supported on a frame/jig until upright? Edit: Alsosays 6m x 3m here.. https://supertuff.co.uk/products/sealed-units/ And here https://www.iqglassuk.com/products/frameless-windows/s22754/ I'd also ask https://www.specialistglass.co.uk/portfolio_page/double-glazed-units/

I suspect most companies buy glass in standard size sheets. Perhaps they are less than 5.5m long.

Whatever you go for I would try and actually build a sample wall about 1m x 1m in a corner of your plot somewhere as bricks can look very different with mortar between them. It also useful to have as a quality reference. eg contract your brick layers to build your house as per as per the sample wall.

Google also found this place offering new handmade soft red bricks in both metric and imperial but perhaps a bit too red rather than salmon colour? https://ammaaristones.co.uk/product-category/bricks/new-bricks/

Not sure what budget you have but perhaps try "Old Clamp" or "Hambleton" from.. https://www.yorkhandmade.co.uk/self-build-bricks Another picture of Old Clamp here... http://www.ukbricks.co.uk/bricks/2686-york-handmade-old-clamp-65mm-handmade-stock-red-heavy-texture-clay-brick.html

I don't think I've ever seen reinforced concrete at such a small diameter. What size aggregate do you propose to use? Think it would need to be pretty a small to fit between the bars? Even if you can get the elements made how do you propose to join them? Weld the ends of the exposed rods? I think I would just use wood like the image you posted.

You should be exempt from the CIL however it is ESSENTIAL to follow the multi step procedure for claiming the exemption. The details are listed at the top of the relevant form. Miss out a step and you loose the exemption with no way to appeal to get it back. You would have to pay the CIL and worse, there is a surcharge. Make sure you get confirmation in writing of each step. See what can happen if you make a minor paperwork error... https://www.watfordobserver.co.uk/news/15982657.man-hit-with-24000-fine-while-building-extension-in-rickmansworth-to-care-for-ill-step-father/

Actually I don't think the 45 degree bend I posted could be screwed in - it would hit the wall when turned.

So he wants to retain the ball joint to do a 45 degree bend? I guess that would work. Yes I think the shower head is probably 3/4" so the first link should be ok. Might need a washer. The Second link has water fed in via the hose - having a loop of hose hanging down would be odd. I wondered if you could use something like this.... https://www.amazon.co.uk/GROHE-28389000-Sena-Adapter-Silver/dp/B000KQDXV2/ref=asc_df_B000KQDXV2/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=232056160750&hvpos=1o8&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1182986788737086570&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006818&hvtargid=pla-419358375020&psc=1&th=1&psc=1 to turn the pipe horizontal instead of the existing ball joint. How much of the 1/2" fitting can you see? ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFZWkRaVlhHSktZM1EmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA4MTE2NjMxN1VBMFJPRVQzMklDJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyMTQ1MTYxWU9FNTA4Q1BJT1M1JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ Then add one of these or similar... https://www.amazon.co.uk/FERIDRAS-Hydra-Shower-Plastic-Chrome/dp/B00I5QWNII/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=Fixed+shower+head+arm&qid=1576286926&s=diy&sr=1-14

I think I would still write to your MP and explain the situation. As him/her to pass it on to the relevant department. I understand there were plans to review the CIL legislation.

Not allowed according to.. https://www.fbcmb.co.uk/media-centre/news/article/6168/cil-and-the-self-build-exemption "There is then a claw back period of three years. If, within that period, a disqualifying event occurs then the exemption is lost and the payment of the normal CIL has to be made, plus a surcharge. The events include ceasing to occupy as the sole or main residence; failure to comply with the evidential requirements; letting out the building; selling it. As a result it is vital that before the self build arrangement is set up, legal advice is taken as to the timing of any alteration in the title to the land, such as leases or family transfers."

Just to add that for our kitchen floor, which is stone, we were recommended to use an Alkaline cleaner on the grout. No particular brand. You can also get special linear brushes that make it easier to clean floor grout.

Buy one first? You get 7 days to return it.

I'd try neat liquid bleach first. <£1 from Tesco etc. Works best on dry surfaces and left overnight.

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Yes of course they do. Perhaps rewire one of these so the neon is always on.... https://www.google.com/search?q=light+switch+with+neon+indicator&oq=light+switch+with+neon&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l3.10671j0j8&client=tablet-android-pega&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#scso=_lIzxXa7wDsif1fAP0vqCgAc64:0.5.5.5&sbfbu=0&pi=light switch with neon indicator

Someone just make a switch with a neon built in?

I had a look at the policy wording here and couldn't see any mention of building control approval but they don't cover contents where... "Loss or damage caused by building work which involves alterations, renovations, extensions or repairs." https://www.aviva.co.uk/insurance/home-products/buildings-insurance/?source=GP7A&entry=117165&cmp=ppc-hom-prd-goo-Bui_Main_Phr&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=CjwKCAiAxMLvBRBNEiwAKhr-nPl02vGiyPT4QWotsJGXnr3o25JzXmxW2nPqxdds4Bp8pK24IrQWhhoCPvkQAvD_BwE Policy wording.. https://www.aviva.co.uk/content/dam/aviva-public/gb/pdfs/personal/insurance/home/home-insurance/home_insurance_policy_wording_insurance_home_nhdhg6080_v35_012017_140617.pdf There must be thousands of properties with extensions that were built without building control approval.

I hesitate to post this as you probably need to be gas Safe registered to work on a boiler. Refurbished Main PCBs appear to be £35 or £60 depending on ??? on eBay. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F332386761691 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F332386777784 Not sure what difference there is.

And there is a 12V version of the Heatmiser Neostat V2 so you do need to check which model you have.. https://www.heatmisershop.co.uk/heatmiser-neostat-12v-v2-programmable-thermostat/?gclid=CjwKCAiAob3vBRAUEiwAIbs5Tn-Te3MoMzR2y6z_2M3buhzhlOTLZfSWAQc0voIdEAtiZSmLUu5c9BoCNoQQAvD_BwE

Manual here... https://www.heatmisershop.co.uk/heatmiser-neostat-v2-programmable-thermostat/ .suggests you need 3 core for a switched live system and 4 core cable if it's going to be a "volt free" system. See Page 29 and 30. They also have a "Neohub" if you want to control it with an App.

Perhaps go for a dual fuel set up. Electric oven with a gas hob on top. https://www.google.com/search?q=60cm+dual+fuel+cooker&oq=60cm+dual&aqs=chrome.0.0j69i57j0l2.5777j0j8&client=tablet-android-pega&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#scso=_PvXvXYOdLqaU1fAP_emMmA474:0.5

Are you happy working on live electrics? The manual here.. https://www.plumbase.co.uk/documents/product/3548621 Has likely wiring diagram bottom of page 21. I would have a look at the voltage on Switched Live (SL) with respect to N. Think that should be 240V whenever the stats (DHW or CH) are calling for heat. See if it's live when it should be. If not then the problem is in the wiring rather than the boiler. On some systems the signal from the stat moves the diverter valve and switch contacts on diverter turns on the boiler when the valve has moved to the required position. So there could be a short delay between a stat calling for heat and SL going live if the signal is routed through contacts on the diverter. These contacts on the diverter are a common source of problems especially if the valve weeps. If the diverter moves but SL never goes live that would be a good place to look. On an old system I once had the switch contacts could be removed and inspected/cleaned but better to replace them. Make sure system power is off before working on these. I like to remove the fuse. If SL is live when expected and the boiler still isn't firing up then problem is in the boiler.

+1 to the level or straight edge. I think 14mm deep hollows are way beyond what you can fix with a tile levelling system though. You would need massive notches on the trowel. If the notch ratio is 50:50 they would need to be 28mm deeper than used elsewhere. That way when squashed down to 14mm you get close to 100% coverage. https://www.rubi.com/en/blog/how-to-choose-the-right-tile-trowel-size-step-by-step/ Floor must be reasonably flat first.