Temp

+1 Although a few of the beam suppliers seemed to mark up the blocks a bit. Try for nearest manufacture as transport can add.

@Home Farm what sort of projects are you doing? There are VAT reductions for properties that have been empty for 2 and 10 years.

Somewhere I read that the A8 control board is short of memory. Someone even said the loader had been left out of some versions to get it to fit? Been too busy to investigate really.

Aside: If Building Control are like mine they may want stack 1 to be open vented above the roof but say stack 2 can have an AAV. This isn't what the regs say. I believe both can be AAV if nearby houses have open vents. Its just some BCO are die hards and you have to pick your battles. I think your proposed routing will work. If you or BC are concerned about the length from stack 1 to the IC you could put another IC in the corner of the L - Something like drawing below (with or without the other IC I added further south). I'd be tempted to move the stacks nearer the shower wastes. Shower waste outlets are lower than WC wastes so they can actually be harder to run. The connection from the shower into the stack may have to be in the slab so needs planning now if you want to avoid a plinth under the shower tray or chipping the concrete away from around the stack. If you plan to have deep insulation above the slab it might be all fit in that but worth making a cross-sectional drawing showing the shower tray, waste, pipe falls and actual connection into the stack for shower and ditto for the WC. We had some difficulty with the shower waste to stack connection in one of our bathrooms. The shower waste has to drop down into a cupboard in the room below and then connect into the stack lower down. There wasn't room between the WC connection to the stack and the floor. This sort of issue is harder to fix in a bungalow. The regs also specify a minimum height from the bottom of the large rad bend to the lowest connection into the stack - so check the large rad bend will be deep enough in the ground to allow a low connection for shower. Moving stack 1 to the south would mover it nearer the shower and should make the above a bit easier but not by much Not shown but you could also consider moving stack 2 south against the southern wall in the corner of the cupboard of master bed for same reason.

Can you post a drawing of whole house? Usually best not to run drains under the house if possible. Most builders aim to have the 110mm from WC exit the house by shortest possible route and then run it around outside the house to join them up. So they draw a line from WC to nearest outside wall and put stack there. Then run smaller pipes to that stack. The strategy doesn't always suit so it's not cast in stone. A drawing showing the house in relation to the sewer in the road and which way the land slopes would help us comment. Pay particular attention to the pipe runs for showers. If you want a low profile shower tray with no plinth this should be 2" pipe and have the right falls and as few bends as possible. At the bottom of a stack you should use a large/long radius bend to turn the flow from vertical to horizontal eg not regular short bend. Example.. https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/plastic-drainage/osmadrain-double-socket-long-radius-bend-87-5-110mm-4d581/p/710624 Take care with the ground floor WC. Many people find they have the pipe coming up through the floor in the wrong place - eg too near or too far from the wall or too short. I recommend bringing it up in the corner of the room and building a stub/short stack with AAV. Then you can put the WC anywhere and run 110mm from it to this stub stack in boxing. Perhaps not as pretty as getting it exactly right but less prone to error. If you have space a false wall looks better than boxing. You can also hide the cistern in it you want or go for a wall hung WC. If it's not full height the false wall also provides a shelf to put stuff and possibly cupboard space.

HMRC will accept til receipts for low value items. Can't remember the exact amount but its £30-£50 ish. Till reciept get a mention in here.. Staple them to an A4 sheet so they can be filed in order.

I had a few things from BnQ and they had no problem writing me a hand written VAT reciept. What happened was the girl on the till called over someone from the customer service desk and they wrote it out on a pad. However this was 12 years ago. I suggest a letter to head office pointing out it would be a shame if BnQ lost the self build market for want of a few pads of forms.

Forgot to mention that there are automatic bed leveling systems out there. They work by measuring the height of the table in many places then moving the nozzle slightly in the z (vertical) axis as it moves in the x or y direction so the gap is maintained even if the bed isn't level. I haven't gone down this route as you need to do a firmware update to the Marlin software in the control board of my printer to support auto levelling.

That nut and bolt look pretty clean. Not tried printing a nut but I found an ordinary metal nut would fit onto a bolt I printed. Cura allows you to scale prints so adding a few % and reprinting the nut might work or run a tap through it if you have one.

Failure to adhere to the bed is a common problem and everyone seems to have their own favourite solution. The nozzle gap is critical and should be uniform across the bed. This is to ensure the first layer is squished down just the right amount. Feeler gauge recommended. Heating the bed seems to help, presumably by stopping the bottom layers shrinking as it cools and cracking off the bed. My printer automatically turns off the bed heater after completing a print and you can sometimes hear it crack off and come loose as it cools. Turning off the cooling fan for first layer or two in the slicer/cura can help adhesion. Many people (including me) put a toughened glass plate on the bed as this is flatter than the aluminium plate supplied. Helps maintain the nozzle gap constant as the nozzle moves across the bed. These are available on Amazon. Treating the glass bed can also help. Some people use Pritstick. You rub it on and then wipe the surface with a bit of wet kitchen towel lightly. This dissolves the Pritstick and when it dries it forms a uniform coating on the glass. The coating lasts many prints. I tried that and found it worked but it's time consuming and messy. Blue painters masking tape is what I'm currently using. It's much quicker than the Pritstick method and seems to work as well. Even when you get PLA to stick you can have issues with other materials. Sometimes the first few inches of filament get dragged all around the bed. To fix that I add a brim or similar which not only helps adhesion but also gives the extruder time to settle down before printing the real part. Sometimesine of holes fails to stick. I find slowing the print speed for the first few layers helps with that - sometimes go as slow as 20mm/second for first layer.

I did the MOSFET upgrade on my Anet A8 because I'd read of problems with the control board connectors. Later I was told it wasn't strictly necessary because the connectors had been improved on the latest versions of the control boards. The issue is that on a 12V system the bed heater draws quite a lot of current. This goes from the PSU to the control board then on to the bed heater. eg it runs through connectors on the main board. With the MOSFET mod you run two new power wires from the PSU to a new MOSFET board and then on to the bed heater. So the high current no longer goes through the mother board connectors. You can do the same mod on the nozzle heater. It's less critical but explains why some people do two MOSFET mods. I'd check on a forum for the anycube i3 to see what others think. If the connectors have been improved it may not be needed anymore. I found this video on how to do it here for your printer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ol6QecdYUw0 It shows how to do a MOSFET upgrade for both the bed heater and the nozzle heater. Although for some reason he uses the words "Table" and "Tip" instead of "Bed" and "Nozzle". Looks like you need to print some mounts to support the MOSFET boards first. Be careful with the wiring polarity. I accidentally powered up after the mod with 12V and 0V swapped. Normally that would destroy the control board but somehow I got away with it. PS: I think some control boards had/have push-on power connectors and others have screw terminals for spade connectors. The screw type are better.

Things they checked on my final inspection 12 years ago.. Every pane of safety glass has BS or CE markings on it. Every external window pane was coated. Electrics signed off Sewers pressure tested. Checked one door was fire rated (long story) We didn't have a kitchen fitted. We only had one bathroom finished. We didn't have a wood burner fitted (waiting for a funnel to arrive) They didn't check our planning conditions (still in breech of one to this day) We had forgotten some window restrictors but he agreed sign off if we promised to fit them. Our oil tank is also too close to our house/boundary but he also let it go.

I don't know about NI regs but in England it would be the internal dimensions after tiling. Here there are also minimum distances between basin and wall (eg so a wheel chair can get from a door, past the basin to the WC).

Apparently you can hire moling kit.. https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/impact-moling-new-water-supply-pipes.497296/ but poster says it's around £356 + vat for a weeks hire so not cheap. Would need three pits to go 15m.

Now you mention it my junior hack must have been Australian. It wouldn't cut at all until I took the blade out and turned it teeth down.

How old is the garage flat roof? If it's not got much life left have you considered raising the whole thing? Might be possible to make the new internal dividing wall all blockwork as none of it would then project above the roof line. You might also be able to run a gutter on the neighbours side to catch any run off if they are happy with that. Obviously you would have to raise the front wall and a bit more of the party wall as well.

Ideally you need 300mm plus two brick courses for the flashing. On my house that's about 6 brick courses. Only looks like 3 on the neighbours house.

+1 to what @ProDave said. looking at the rear elevation.. Is there enough clearance below the eaves of the house to raise the garage 300mm? I cant tell from the photo due to the angle but if it's the same height as at the front it looks tight. Edit: Looking at the view out of the window towards the neighbours the gap looks about 3 brick courses or 250mm ish . So If you raise the roof 300mm this will cut into the facia. This area would need careful design or you will have a leak in a difficult area to fix. Think I'd want to see a sketch of the proposed solution

Think you are allowed to mole a water pipe through a root protection zone.

https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/10/conservatories/3

Some time ago I picked up a junior hacksaw at one of the sheds. Today I needed to hack some pipe in half to fit it in the car. This is the straightest cut it would make. Soon as it starts I'm twisting the saw as far as I can trying to steer it left. Totally useless.

How about something like this. The "hooks" would be made from battens/strips of wood.. Would need to allow a small gap (20mm?) at the top to allow the back to slide up to remove. Lots of variations on this theme possible eg top hook longer than the bottom and pointing upwards could also work.

I had some light fitting delivered to my address which at the time was in Belgium ?.

That last bit should read.. But also.. My reading of this is that a design service that is primarily used by the window maker (eg to help them make the windows) it should be zero rated,. However if the design service was primarily provided to you (eg to get the shape and styling to suit your house) then it should be standard rated.

It depends what the invoice says.. Safest way is just to ask them for the invoice to say "Supply of windows" "or perhaps "Supply of windows to customer drawing" or something like that. Then they would count as "materials" and their invoice should include VAT which you reclaim like any other materials. It gets complicated if they itemise everything and what the breakdown says.. If its got a "service" element such as "Design windows" I believe that can be argued either way because VAT 708 says in 3.4.1.. EDIT: Sorry one missing / and the formatting goes to pot and cannot be fixed. At least I cant figure out how to repair it.