Temp

Do you mean how does matter such as the surface of the earth convert visible light to infra red? Think that's mostly to do with temperature and the way photons work. The energy a photon has is determined by its frequency or equivalently it's wavelength. The sun is literally white hot (radiates in the visible spectrum). The surface of the earth is colder so energy it radiates is mostly in the infrared spectrum. If you heat up some steel the light it emits starts as infra red and changes to visible light as its temperature increases. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photon_energy

Think that partly confuses energy and temperature. Capturing less energy does not necessarily mean a smaller temperature rise. It means a smaller _rate_ of temperature rise. Temperatures keep rising until there is no net inflow of energy. It's actually the relationship between the surface temperature and the energy lost into space that needs to be considered. Eg how big an increase in surface temperature is required to increases the energy lost to space and restore net zero energy flows?

Make sure your electrician knows the same set of symbols.

Our shower tray has drainage grooves which makes it hard to get a plunger to seal. On day I might print a plastic widget to fill them in but meanwhile a ring of wet dish cloth used as a crude washer seems to improve things.

And brush the glue on. Running the bottle along can be too hit and miss.

C02 levels have certainly been higher in the past but the sun wasn't as bright then and apparently that makes a big difference.. https://skepticalscience.com/co2-higher-in-past.htm A winter duvet is fine in winter but summer is arriving and even a few blankets will be too much.

We have a mix of spreader plates (under oak floor) and pipe in screed (under stone and tile). Both work ok but the spreader plate system warms up faster from cold. What matters more is: 1) How much insulation you can put under it and what's going over it? Put as much as possible under it. If I was building again I would aim for >150mm and 200+ wouldn't be unreasonable. Some people lay 18mm Chipboard and put 14mm engineered wood on top. It would be better to just to use 21mm engineered wood on its own. Chipboard and carpet? Keep the TOG of underlay and carpet to 2.0-2.5 in total. Special underlay exists. Hessian backed carpet is better than foam rubber. 2) how well your house is insulated overall? At the end of the day your bill depends mainly on how much energy the house looses and the fuel used (gas, oil, electric, ASHP etc) 3) and if you both go to work? If house is empty during the day a faster response time may be better. That way you don't spend ages putting heat into a floor only for it to come out when you aren't there. 4) it there much solar gain? If sun comes out can the heating system respond fast enough to the increased solar gain?

Welcome to the forum. Personally I fear we maybe heading for a recession and might find in a year or two it's harder to get a new one. Do you have help available? Some building jobs are two man or even three. Most people find the planning department very slow. Took me over a year to get our planning permission through. Sometimes we heard nothing for a few weeks then discovered the person had left the council and had to wait for a new one to be recruited. Don't be tempted to start any work on site until you have the CIL exemption paperwork in order or you can loose the exemption altogether and have to pay it. One document lost in the post on the way to the council can cost a fortune. Make sure they receive anything you send.

Sorry I only did O-level chemistry. Came across Schrödinger's equation doing electronics a long time ago. Google says water vapour (reasonable simple molecule) has at least 37,000 absorption lines so how the maths works im not sure.

https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/5348/how-do-you-calculate-the-absorption-spectrum-of-water/5349#5349 "Schrödinger's equation"... shudder...reaches for a beer...

Copper guttering goes brown and from a distance doesn't obviously look like copper.

Think i would list it on your insurance policy.

There are some photogrammetry programs available that look pretty impressive but I've not tried them yet.. https://m.youtube.com/results?search_query=photogrammetry For simple regular objects measuring and redraughting is quicker Edit: Sorry @Onoff i missed your post above somehow.

You can soften PLA in a cup of hot tea :-) For Halloween I printed some stencils flat (1.5mm thick) and then dipped them in hot water to make them soft and formed them over the pumpkin we were going to carve. Few seconds later they set up to match the shape of the pumpkin.

Festool make one (edit well ok they badge one). https://www.amazon.co.uk/Festool-Folding-Rule/dp/B0058HUKXM/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Wood+folding+ruler&qid=1577619881&sr=8-5 Not tried it but reviews are good.

I didn't notice the recess. If you print vertically it might need supports enabled "everywhere" to support the top edge of the recess. Either that or change the design so the top of the recess is at say 45 degrees rather than a horizontal overhang.

+1 A planning application has to be accompanied by a certificate stating you are either the owner or the owners agent or have notified the owner. You could try arguing that getting planning permission will cost £10k and the plot is worth £10k as agricultural land so both of you are putting 50% into the deal. Then point out you are taking all the risk. If planning is refused you loose £10k but he keeps the land. Therefore a 50:50 in the profit is actually generous. You will pay half the value of the plot with PP. Use your own numbers. Find out what its worth as agricultural land. Any contract you agree needs to be carefully worded to give you the right to buy at a price but not the obligation to buy. It must also oblige him to support your planning application and not take any action that might cause refusal. Try and find a solicitor that has done business contracts not just conveyancing. You don't want him changing his mind after you get PP or selling to a third party

Perhaps not what you mean but.. Standard lighting wiring doesn't provide a neutral at light switches (the blue wire is used as switched live). You might consider running three core + earth down to switches so a neutral can be provided. This might allow a wider variety of smart devices to be fitted in the switch box.

Cooling fan enabled? Try printing it horizontally with supports. Should be stronger that way as well.

Yes the blue mixer sets the floor temperature, the grey stat is a safety backup in case the blue mixer fails - at least that's how mine works.

Never heard that and we didn't. We had a site survey done which included about 20 spot heights (above sea level I think). Ultimately right or wrong is determined by what is specified in your planning drawings. However if these are vague you are probably ok. If it is not possible to identify either the ground level or finished height from the drawings then i can't see how the council can take enforcement action. How much does the ground slope? Not directly relevant but... In the rules on permitted development (eg for extensions and outbuildings) max heights are measured from the highest ground adjacent to the building.

If so this may be of use... https://www.gov.uk/hmrc-internal-manuals/vat-construction/vconst24550 Thanks Google :-)

As for proof you may need a letter from the previous owner.

There is more you need to check out... https://www.gov.uk/hmrc-internal-manuals/vat-construction/vconst24200#IDA5F1GH

The grey thing you marked "Some kind of thermostat" is just that. Its intended to limit the max floor temperature to avoid damaging some floor coverings or burning feet. Check its not set too low or the pump won't run. Somewhere around 45-55C should be OK.