Temp

The following assumes the sweep bend has a push fit socket on it. I looked at part SY405 (87.5 Degree Five Boss Branch - Push-fit Socket - Spigot) on Marley web site.. https://www.marleyplumbinganddrainage.com/products/soil-systems/pushfit-soil/ The 110mm branch is 175mm from the bottom of the branch connector. The male on the bottom goes about 60mm into the socket of the swept bend. So I think the 110mm branch would be at 175-60 = 115mm above the top of the sweep bend. So the 110mm branch would be 35 + 115 = 150mm above the slab or 150 - (50 + 25) = 75mm above FFL. The WC pan connector is about 180mm above FFL so I think it works for the WC. The branch might even be too low if the WC pan is very close to the stack - you might even need to raise the branch a bit. Best check my maths. Aside: 50mm insulation isn't much.

Oops my bad. Didn't spot the N.

How high? We used sleepers but ours is only about 1ft high.

That's 390kg/m^2 ?

If you use a top access trap a flexible pipe may not support the bottom part of the trap enough during assembly. If the bottom part moves too much it could be hard to screw the top part into it through the tray. Solvent weld may seem bit scary but it's not really. Helps if you mark the outside of the pipes after dry assembly and use a reasonable amount of solvent. Then you get enough time to rotate the pipe to line up the marks before it sets.

Sounds like fixings over tightened or holes too small so it can't move when it expand and contracts?

I have just done this in our ensuite using top access trap. This was the sequence I did for fitting the tray... Shower trays need good support. Typically you need 16-18mm WPB or better still marine plywood same size as the tray supported on a 4*2 frame/joists. Don't fit ply yet but check it will be level. Cut a hole in the ply where the trap will go about 1/2" bigger than the trap. Cut rigid solvent weld pipes and assemble without glue to check position of trap is perfect. Lower tray onto it to check. The top of the bottom part of the trap should be a few mm above top of plywood to allow for mortar which will raise the tray slightly. Ideally the trap should be able to move up and down a bit so it can tighten up against underside of tray later. When happy with the position solvent weld the pipes. Test for leaks and screw down the plywood. Seal plywood with SBR or similar PVA sealer. When dry lay bed of mortar and lower tray onto it. I laid the tray onto two sticks of wood first and then pulled them out. Check tray is level. Fit top of trap through tray into bottom half of trap. If the underside of the tray isn't nice and smooth consider putting silicon around the rubber seal on the trap before lowering the tray onto it. You can also seal the top of the trap to the tray if there is no rubber washer provided. Later fit the innards of the trap and the mushroom cap.

We used an MDPE stopcock. Toleration or Screwfix have them.

Don't know if any of you are 40% tax payers (I'm not) but there is a lot of speculation he might limit pension tax relief to the lower rate. One article suggested a level 25% so "high rate payers level down, low rate payers level up and the government raise £5bn in tax. I think he may also increase the £1m limit as that's causing problems for high earning doctors.

Across the channel they think it strange to have air-conditioning and a sun roof on same car. Always seemed like a good idea to me.

What's the loading over the patio door? The required bearing area can be calculated from the load in Newton's divided by the area in mm^2. That needs to be less than the crush strength of the blocks. What I'm not sure about is the safety margin that should also be applied? Factor of 2?.

Could add the odd huge spider to scare people :-)

Sadly... "....starting price of around $6,200 for the manually-programmed base version and over $6,800 for the deluxe version that can run on automated timers,"

https://gizmodo.com/mitsubishi-s-fake-led-skylights-simulate-sunlight-to-ma-1841573763

Google finds one or two reviews but not very detailed. They have a Facebook page.. https://m.facebook.com/pg/TimberFrameBuildings/about/

I'm about to tile a bathroom and plan to do the walls first. Mainly so I can cut the wall tiles on the floor and don't have to worry about dropping tools or adhesive. No idea if that's the order a pro would do it.

Can't really see what the middle bit is. Could you cut a ridge tile to shape?

I think the systems in the original news article are electric boilers heating a water thermal store used for both heating and DHW. I suspect the whole system is too small and the store is running out, particular after a shower or two.

Just checking you have seen latest weather forecast for storm ciara. Pretty strong winds this weekend.

If i was to switch today the best rates for my consumption would be are around 13p/kWh but I'm paying a bit more than that as I switched less than a year ago. That would make the ASHP figure 7.8*13/20 = 5.07 p/kWh just a bit cheaper than oil. They are suggesting bills would reduce from £1200+ to £840 about a 30% reduction. Still find that hard to believe.

All they say is... "Electricity: Based on an average of the 6 major electricity suppliers’ online prepayment, credit and direct debit tariffs, including standing charges and VAT, but not Economy 7. Data used are the Tariff Comparison Rates (TCR) provided on the 6 major energy suppliers’ website."

So they are predicting a considerable % saving. What tariff were they using to calculate your likely electricity bill? This site is one of the few that compares different fuels systems but its not without fault... https://nottenergy.com/resources/energy-cost-comparison/ They estimate: Pence per kWh (after boiler efficiency) Electricity 20 p/kwh Oil/Kerosene 5.73 p/kWh ASHP 7.81 p/kWh Their figure for Electricity appears to be too high. I think 15 p/kWh is more reasonable than 20p/kWH. If they used 20p electricity in their ASHP calculation the figure for ASHP should be nearer 7.8 * 15/20 = 5.8p /KWH but that's still about the same as oil (5.7p/kWh). Ok so the Notts web site have assumed oil boilers are 90% efficient, and yours probably isn't, that appears to be where the saving is coming from.

Google found that some have a 25 year warranty. Don't know about your old one but check out if you need to do anything to get that on the new one? Paperwork/receipt from plumber?

They make cylinders in "steel with vitreous enamel lining" and stainless steel.

Have just remembered that her storage heaters appeared to be switched off at the wall two weeks ago. If she hasn't been using those for heating the bills are likely to be wrong and too high. Can't do much for now, as it seems nobody has a Power of Attorney.